Travel Snapshot: Canary Islands

Today we are in Las Palmas, in the Canary Islands, of which there are seven main islands about 100 km northwest of the African continent. Tenerife is probably the best known and there are many smaller islands in the archipelago. 

Travel Snapshot: Casablanca

Casablanca. Sounds exciting doesn’t it - particularly for those of you who remember the famed film. 

Sadly, though, it is far from being a destination icon - in fact, it's the sort of place you get out of as quickly as possible. 

Travel Snapshot: Spain's Alhambra

 

Spain's Alhambra is a lesson to us all about the power and beauty of simplicity and the importance of blending architecture with nature. In a beautiful hilltop setting of natural gardens, this haven for Sultans that dates back to 1238 takes you into another world - where architecture joins with nature to create one of the world's wonders. 

Travel Snapshot: Tasmanian Touring

You can really spend and head for the Pump House or Stillwater. We have experienced both properties and give them a high five. However, if you are looking for a very comfortable inner city property with a great restaurant, I would recommend The Sebel Launceston. 

Hotel Review: Sofitel Fiji Resort and Spa

We were on a quick business trip to Nadi - and decided to soak up a bit of sun and luxury at the Sofitel Fiji Resort and Spa. We used Welcome Pickups to organise a transfer from Nadi Airport - the service was excellent both ways - and good value. 

Visiting Valletta

by Ian McIntosh

For a lot of people, Malta’s Valletta is a one-day stop on a Mediterranean cruise. As you roll up you firstly marvel at the height of the ancient walls built by the Knights of St John to protect the settlement. A quick stroll and you are at what is called the Upper Gardens - a magnificent lookout over the entrance to the port - and beyond. From here a short walk and you are in the colourful streets admiring the elegant baroque-style buildings. 

Viking Cruises Arouses History

As cruising makes a post-COVID resurgence, veteran journalist, Ian McIntosh, recalls earlier times at sea.

Before I outline why Viking is the best cruise line I have sailed on in recent times - a little bit of background. The cruising industry in this part of the world started when the P&0 line ships that used to cart just about everyone to Europe along with a hold full of produce suddenly faced an uncertain future. Aircraft were finally making an impact despite the fact that they were incredibly expensive. Qantas started to snatch away the younger crowd by introducing what was called the Pacesetter fare - a cheap deal to London that included a few days in Hong Kong and Greece. In my case Mykonos. These were the days of DC8s and 707s. 

Two nights at the new Dorsett Hotel in Melbourne

Have to say I quite enjoyed my two-night stay at the new Dorsett Hotel in Little Lonsdale Street, central Melbourne. Review by Ian McIntosh.

Is this a tourist scam in Livorno?

from Ian McIntosh travelling in Italy

It seems the transport authorities in the Italian city of Livorno are not only targeting tourists - but ripping them off in the bargain. A group of Australian tourists were hijacked by transport authority thugs in Livorno Italy yesterday and ripped off for 40 euros each. 

Aboard Azamara in the Mediterranean

from Ian McIntosh aboard Azamara Journey with wife and author Fiona McIntosh

Boarding Azamara Journey in Barcelona was quick and easy - there were plenty of staff and with only a shade under 800 guests the terminal was never very crowded. It seems Covid fears have gone out of the window - we were asked if we were feeling ok - and that was it. When you finally make it on board the reception area is a bit ordinary but a glass of champagne made up for any disappointment. 

The Suite Life: Why upgrade to a suite on your next cruise?

Royal Suite Class RCCL

Firstly, the comment that “walking around the decks must be like attending the New Year store sales - an absolute bun fight – and the restaurants must be packed as well.”  Not true. Some passengers get their daily exercise walking around the deck - others love the pools.

From On Board: Ovation of the Seas

I have to say from the outset that I am no big fan of monster ship cruising - yet here I am on Royal Caribbean’s Ovation of the Seas along with 4000 other passengers heading for New Zealand. So how did that happen? 

Hotel Snapshot: Atura Adelaide Airport

Veteran travel journalist, Ian McIntosh, skips through Adelaide Airport en route to Europe and samples Adelaide's airport hotel.

I was sipping French champagne at 10.30am - and why not? It has been more than three years since I boarded a flight for Europe. We are heading to Singapore today  - then Munich and onwards. Spent last night at the Atura Adelaide Airport Hotel and was quite impressed. 

Alaska's new 'Gold Rush' - with Fiona McIntosh

Ian and Fiona McIntosh find not all that glitters needs to be gold in Alaska

Stage one of our Air New Zealand flight to Vancouver is over - we are in a very comfy terminal talking about how good the experience was. Lovely flight attendant, both welcomed by the flight director, comfy leather seats - plenty of leg room and we were seated just behind the entrance door to the 777 200. It is a short flight from Sydney to Auckland - around two and a half hours but we had a massive tail wind and rolled to the terminal nearly half an hour early. We left on time and drinks soon arrived - I had a glass of bubbly - pity it was in a plastic cup though. The simple menu looked very promising - to begin a beetroot and goat cheese salad with balsamic and beef gel, toasted hazelnut crumble. Did it live up to expectations? Absolutely. - appetising to look at and all the real flavours were there. Bread variety includes sourdough loaf and walnut loaves served with extra virgin olive oil and yes the bread was warm. What a start. Drinks are served with the main course - I naturally chose a sauvignon blanc from Villa Maria, New Zealand's most awarded winery. I now know why it earns the gongs. The real treat followed - braised beef short rib with potato puree, sage, buttered carrots and parsnips, creamed Swiss chard with horseradish jus. Adding to the experience was NZ butter and cheese. After more than 40 years of looking forward to main courses on airlines I know how easy it is to be disappointed. Very, very disappointed. Not today folks. The meat pulled away and each veg made a contribution. We were very happy. The movie selection is ok - the screen on the small side but picture quality is excellent. To finish lunch the offering was flourless dark chocolate cake with vanilla bean cream. What did the chef (she who must be obeyed) think? Good enough as one of the small treats for the wedding of one of our sons that is coming up next year. High praise indeed.

The little township of Skagway Alaska was super busy today thanks to a maximum of four cruise ships clogging the harbour - but the thousands of visitors hardly rated a ripple compared to the influx during the Klondike Gold Rush. More than 100,000 hopefuls arrived after gold was discovered in 1896. Madness is the only word for what followed - men and women - even children made a life-threatening journey across treacherous, icy valleys and harrowing rocky terrain. We saw part of it today aboard a vintage railcar as it traces the track from Fraser to Skagway. The railway was built to make the journey to the goldfields easier - but the gold had petered out by the time it was finished in 1900. The White Pass and Yukon Railway clatters through increasingly hostile valleys and mountains - how anyone managed the trek during summer let alone winter is a mystery you are left to ponder from the comfort of your train seat. The 3 ft (914 mm) narrow-gauge railroad linked the port of Skagway with Whitehorse, the capital of Yukon. The trip on the section from Fraser is interesting enough - before we boarded we braved a suspension bridge over a raging river way below. While you marvel at man's ability master nature to blast the railway out in the first place, you could be forgiven for getting a little bored as the journey rolls on. Most memorable, as i said before, is pondering just how people managed to tame some of the most inhospitable country on earth.

Less than half of those who started the trek to the Yukon arrived and after that monster effort they stood little chance of finding gold.

Out soon from Fiona. Click for more info.

It was discovered by American George Carmack in 1896 in Rabbit Creek (later renamed Bonanza Creek), a Klondike River tributary that ran through both Alaskan and Yukon Territory. Canadian authorities required every prospector to have a year's worth of gold mining equipment and supplies before crossing the Canadian border which made the trek along a narrow path all but impossible for pack horses. It's estimated 3,000 of them died on White Pass. After crossing Chilkoot or White Pass, prospectors had to build or rent boats and brave hundreds of miles of winding Yukon River rapids to reach Dawson City. No one knows how many died during the river trip - only about 30,000 weary stampeders finally arrived in Dawson City to discover reports of available Klondike gold were greatly exaggerated. By the end of 1898 countless miners had already left Yukon Territory penniless, leaving cities such as Dawson and Skagway in rapid decline. These days fortunately the gold boom is back - but it has been renamed tourism.

Fiona ponders her next blockbuster. Will our heroine find love and
adventure amid the icy wastes of the Gold Rush-era Klondike?

Today we woke up to see rugged, ice capped mountains and hurried to dress and get out onto the top deck because we were about to confront the Hubbard Glacier. I visited the San Rafael Glacier in Patagonia many years ago but this sort of natural, ancient brilliance never gets old. And the bridge mentioned that they often sail here into a misty or rainy day but we were blessed by a sparkling, sunny morning where the ice winked and glinted at us, as did the freezing waters. It was unnerving to see so much ice broken and thawing and I tried to reassure myself it was summer but a fellow next to me who had been here at least half a dozen times let me know that the glacier used to be much, much bigger with huge icebergs all around. I'm assured it continues to thicken, defying other glaciers around the planet, but even so, he seemed determined it was larger with towering ice pillars breaking off 'back then'. 

The 450 year old glacier remains awe inspiring and so very beautiful to gaze upon, which we did for an hour. Everyone was hushed - it demanded silence from us all. No wildlife, not even birds around although I gather it supports a population of grizzlies and the rare, silverblue 'glacier' bears. The glacier flows for more than 120 kms with a 120 metre or so 'snout' and is embraced by 24 million acres of wilderness - hallelujah. It's famous for its swift surges and has been known to suddenly move forward up to 30 metres a day - that was back in the mid eighties. This is the largest tidewater glacier in North America.

A special day in a far flung spot called Hoonah. 

Talk about isolated. Today we arrived at Icy Strait Point Hoonah Alaska. Beautiful day - and we were the only ship at the tiny destination designed to lure more tourist dollars into the area by the Huana Tiingit people. To say I was impressed is an understatement. The ship was tied up to one large pier - and the gangway allowed passengers on Oceania's Regatta to walk straight into the settlement. Its green colour and simplicity meant it blended straight into the thick natural undergrowth and forest of pines. While having breakfast in the outdoor restaurant we saw our first bald eagle - perched at the end of the mooring area consuming what I assume was a salmon. It stayed there for a while and then joined a mate in a tree nearby - we assumed they had a nest. 

When you arrive after a short walk down the gangway you are greeted by an interesting collection of attractions - ranging from shops to the old cannery factory and a zip rider. Kids roar down from a 1,300 foot mountain hitting speeds for more than 60mph. There are buses for the elderly - the site is super clean and tidy - a great example to any destination wanting to lure tourist dollars. We were on a special tour tracking bears - but the guide was very honest with us saying the morning tour had failed to spot any of the famed four footed locals. After a short bus ride we went from lookout to lookout with the same result - nothing - and then as we could hear the bus motor starting in order to take us back - a bear finally appeared. Amazingly he strolled down the river right past us and kept going until he discovered a bald eagle eating prey. Naturally enough, the eagle decided to move giving us another glimpse of life in one of the most remote parts of the world. We returned to the ship delighted with our day. Even if the bear had not appeared - it was enough to wander through narrow tracks between virgin forest - the light every now and then illuminating the group.

Follow Ian and his travel treasure hunts at his website

Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp & Resort - showering with elephants

Showering with #Thailand’s gentle jungle giants

Elephant shower at Anantara Golden Triangle Elephant Camp & Resort (supplied)

by Ian McIntosh

The small, brightly painted traditional Thai long tail boat was racing along the mighty Mekong River so quickly the ripples sounded like we were smacking rocks. We flashed past the huge Buddha marking the Golden Triangle – ahead was Burma, to my left Thailand and to the right Laos. And here is our resort, my lovely guide Tuk yelled in my ear. She was pointing to a hill of thick bright green jungle and a rather decrepit looking landing. Resort? Not that I could see.

London's Kings Cross St Pancras Pullman delivers the goods

by Ian Mcintosh - Travel Agent Update

Great views over London. Amazing selection for breakfast. Get your emails anywhere. Plenty of desk space. Satellite style check-in booths.

When French based giant Accor Hotels sensed the need to cater more closely to its cosmopolitan, mobile, hyper-connected clientele it was back to the drawing board for its planning team. A computerised version of a hotel was gutted – and a new product – from the baggage lift by the front steps to satellite style check-in pods and exterior glass lifts took shape. Drawing on the expertise of an organization with 3,500 hotels under its belt, the product had to set a new benchmark for savvy travellers – be smart, functional, well located and still good value. And so Pullman Hotels was born – and the success of this brand is evidenced by the fact that already there are 89 around the world. Accor has luxury brands but Pullman had to be different – upmarket but not stuffy – hotels that had an exciting buzz from the moment a client checked in. Vast empty foyers were out – the space instead used for restaurants, bars and comfy lounges. Finally a digital package would allow clients to browse the web and check their emails anywhere in the hotel.

We booked into the Kings Cross St Pancras Pullman because we were arriving in London around 1pm from Paris via Eurostar and Fiona had an important meeting at 4pm. The first priority was to find an upmarket hotel a stroll away from the railway station with a comfy, serviced lounge area where we could sit and talk. Getting to the hotel couldn't be simpler – after exiting the station you cross the road and take the first right. No need to drag your case up the steps out the front if the doorman is busy – there is a lift on the right hand side. Check-in was quick and easy via a series of booths rather than one desk. In no time at all I was looking at london's skyline - a glass of Bergerie de la Bastide in hand, from deluxe room number 1410. What a change from the Novotel days. You get the buzz as soon as you arrive. I love big foyers - and there it is - but it is not wasted space. You are immediately greeted by the noise, sights, sounds, laughter of a working hotel as guests enjoy everything from a drink at the bar and afternoon tea to a meal or just a chat with a client.

The rooms are big for London and as you would expect fitted out comfortably with plenty of desk space, a big flat TV, ipod dock, individual reading lights - you name it. Bathroom space is used for a good sized shower - no bath thankfully. Everything is thought out carefully – right down to the safe at face level making locking simple. So how was the breakfast? In a word, brilliant - right down to the orange or raspberry smoothie shots. You could dine on the cheese board alone. It was easily the best and most appealing spread we experienced – and the most stylishly presented - in three weeks of travel. The food in England has improved out of sight in the last few years following a vigorous and much overdue campaign by VisitBritain.

Leading the team is livewire GM Jaime Faus who really has his work cut out. As well as 300 rooms he has convention facilities for 400 plus a full size theatre to keep full. Service was brisk and friendly in every department.

To Conclude: A stylish, well run, communications savvy hotel ideally sited close the London Eurostar terminal. Breakfast is a real treat. ****.5

For bookings, see Accor Hotels website

Stop and shop in Abu Dhabi

by Ian Mcintosh - Travel Agent Update

Grand Millennium Hotel at Wahda (supplied)

We decided to break our journey to Istanbul and spend a full day in Abu Dhabi for one reason only – to shop. Dubai is our usual stopover but not this time –however Fiona was undeterred. The credit cards were out and ready. If Dubai was the Holy Grail, surely Abu Dhabi had a marble clad answer or two. My research on Booking.com highlighted the Grand Millennium Hotel at Wahda - right next to Al Wahda Mall, the biggest in town. Established in 2007 it flaunts a good retail mix of high street brands such as Armani Xchange, Gap, Mango, Gant, and Calvin Klein. Plenty of food outlets too – we had a delicious meal from an Indian outlet for next to nothing. We arrived after 14 hours on Etihad quite early in the morning from Melbourne and the cab had us at the hotel by 9.30am. I was quite happy to put our bags into storage and head out – but the reception clerk invited us to enjoy a coffee in the foyer while he worked a little magic.

Sure enough, we were soon heading for the 19th floor via one of a bank of fast lifts. Room 1918 was a good size by today’s standards with a bathroom big enough for two boasting a separate bath and shower. Room colours were muted, and all the expected goodies were there – full-length mirror, safe, mini bar (no Diet Coke), tea, coffee and two bottles of comp water. An iron and board were a phone call away. As I said, we were on the 19th floor with sweeping views over a biscuit-coloured city that is obviously ever-evolving rapidly, judging by the number of cranes poking skyward. We enjoyed excellent Wi-Fi, a big desk (international power plugs would have been nice), a big flat TV, and the king bed was fine. The aircon was a little noisy along with the internet/TV controller box. No complaints about the lighting however - bedside readers get their own spot. So, how was the shopping? Here is the word from a self-confessed shopaholic: “Have to say I was deliciously surprised when I walked into the Al Wahda Mall.

Al Wahda Mall, Abu Dhabi [source]

I was expecting the poor country cousin to Dubai – and it is – but my idea of how it was going to be and the reality didn’t match up. It was superb. We were looking for sneakers for Ian and found every major brand to choose from and good discount sales on some of the top ones, including the Jack Wolfskin trail walkers he settled on. I was looking for a flat pair of neutral-coloured brogues to replace the ones in my suitcase that I knew would be trashed during my upcoming Turkey travels. Unbelievably I found EXACTLY what I was looking for in magnificent soft leather in a designer brand that was down from $350 to AUD100. As always these fantastic UAE malls are places of great light, calm, cleanliness and easy to get around. Given that my hotel was virtually next door, it was perfect.

TO CONCLUDE: This is a very comfy, modern hotel that looks slightly tired but is ideally located near the main Abu Dhabi shopping mall. When we asked about a nearby restaurant, the European concierge did not have much local knowledge.

Ian McIntosh is Australia’s Senior Traveller.

Bangkok by Night - No other city like it

Bangkok comes alive at night (flickr user fotografm)

by Ian Mcintosh - Travel Agent Update

There really is no show on earth like Bangkok at night. The best place to view the action is from a cab. Firstly there is the traffic. Never ending - cars, tuk tuks, families of three and even four perched on tiny scooters, beautiful girls, their long dark hair trailing in the breeze, fly past my window. No need to hang on. No need for a helmet. A million lights appear from nowhere to illuminate streeets jam packed with everything from people to bars to restaurants and massage parlors and it is only 7pm. The driver smiles as we pass the banana club - "for men only. Only open at night." There are hundreds of others ranging from German style beer halls to lavish clubs that take up four floors. Every strip of pavement is now taken up with tables and chairs as Bangkok's workers sit down to eat wonderful dishes whipped up in woks and hotplates from tiny mobile kitchens. Just the aromas are enough to set your stomach groaning. Not just one or two streeets - but every street. Why would you eat at home? Thing is I have never had the courage to sit down and join them, which really irks me.

Adding to this riot of colour, atmosphere and entertainment is everyone from go go dancers to the the most mangy dogs ever that stagger about eternally scratching themselves. I usually end up buying them dinner. Tonight I travelled from the Holiday Inn on Rama 1 road to The Landmark in Sukhumvit followed by the Ambassador to see my tailor and finally to the German Beer Club on Soy 5 followed by The Amari Boulevard for a cocktail in the foyer. On the walk I was invited to strip clubs and worse, restaurants by the dozen, offered porn movies, cheap pizzas...the list goes on. Thing is it is all done with the famous Thai smile. Frankly I love every minute of it. Back in the hotel now - its 9.30pm here - the car ride took nearly an hour and cost B100 - about $4. My 2 handmade shirts plus having a coat altered will cost me $90.