After decades of isolation, Libya is cautiously reopening to travellers and revealing extraordinary Roman ruins, layered history and a complex modern identity. World traveller, Ros Freeman, fulfils a promise to herself.There can be no better place in Libya than sitting atop a Roman amphitheatre, gazing out over the clear blue Mediterranean. In the distance, ancient galleons once traversed these waters, sails billowing. In the foreground, orchestras played as masked mime artists danced across the stage before enthralled audiences.