
From a darkened back room in Lomé to the "door of no return" at Cape Coast, a voyage through West Africa where the old gods, and the old wounds, are still very much in residence.
Words and pictures by Roderick Eime
"You will travel far, and the spirits will guide you safely through many perils." Anthony whispers it into his cupped hands, slides a tiny wooden pin into a tinier shaft and presents me with my travelling talisman. Anthony is not his real name, I'm certain. He has the glow of a man who has just sold a very good used car.






