Tonga: By Royal Appointment

Ros Freeman visits the only Pacific kingdom never colonised, and finds ancient stones, spouting blowholes and a dinner invitation she won’t forget.

We’re standing outside the gates of the Royal Palace, peering in for a chance glimpse of the Royal Family. The raised flag indicates that they’re ‘in residence ’, however, we don’t see a hint of them. The Royal Princess, our guide Robbie informs us, is currently at the Commonwealth Games. ‘Have you ever met the Royal Family?’ I ask Robbie. ‘Countless times’, he replies.

The Royal Family move with ease in Tonga. It is the only surviving kingdom in the Pacific. It is ruled by King Tupou VI. Until recently, it was an absolute monarchy; however, it transitioned to a semi-constitutional monarchy, and the country now holds democratic elections.

Royal Palace

There’s a great sense of pride among the Tongans. Not only do they have the only monarchy in Oceania, but they are also the only Polynesian kingdom never to be colonised by European powers. The country has a rich history, unique customs and spectacular marine life. Each year, humpback whales travel from Antarctica to the warm waters of Tonga to breed and give birth.

Tonga is an archipelago of 170 islands, about 40 of which are inhabited. It’s known as ‘The Friendly Islands’, a moniker bestowed upon them by James Cook. Little did Cook know that the islanders were planning to assassinate him. They just failed to agree on a plan. In the meantime, Cook and his crew sailed away. Cook visited Tonga three times.



One of the joys of traveling is shopping. In this case it wasn’t a ‘girl thing’ it was the boys who gathered around the racks of rugby shirts. ‘All the shirts are either XXL or XXXL’ some bemoaned. Well, it is Tonga after all. The Tongans are mad about rugby. Their national team is a fierce competitor, and many Tongans represent international teams. On a separate note, the late King Tupou IV held the Guinness World Record for being the world’s heaviest monarch, weighing in at 290 kilograms.

Checkers in the park

Though only a small country, 750 square kilometres, Tonga has a lot to offer. It’s renowned for its dramatic blowholes, untouched Polynesian culture, and ancient archaeological sites; often dubbed the Stonehenge of the South Pacific.

The Tongan Empire, founded around 950AD, included Samoa and parts of Fiji. The empire’s wealth financed massive terrace tombs and megalithic structures such as Haʻamonga ‘a Maui, the Stonehenge of the Pacific. The stone structure was built in the 13th century. Each coral limestone slab weighs approximately 30 to 40 tonnes. Archaeologists believe that the Ha‘amonga was built by a 13th-century king as the gateway to his royal palace. It’s also thought it could be part of a solar calendar. The origin of the huge trilithon remains a mystery.

Tonga's Stonehenge

Tonga’s natural phenomena include the massive Tsunami Rock, a 10-metre-high limestone coral boulder. At 1600 tonnes, it’s the largest tsunami debris ever identified. The rock was hurled ashore by an ancient tsunami probably over 35 metres high. The day’s highlight, though, was the blowholes. The ‘Whistle of the Noble’ is created each time waves crash into rock formations along the coast, forcing jets of seawater high into the air through narrow openings. At dusk, tourists and locals gathered to experience this remarkable occurrence.

Happy pigs foraging in the shallows

One of Tonga’s more unusual attractions is the fishing pigs. These pigs are descended from pigs given to the Tongans by James Cook. The semi-wild pigs forage in shallow waters, eating seaweed, seagrass, algae, and occasionally small marine organisms. What happy pigs!

The Whistle of the Noble

Sunday is the holy Sabbath in Tonga; a day of rest. It is illegal to conduct business, play sports, or perform manual labour; apart from essential services. Of the 110,000 population, 98% are Christian. Christianity is an integral part of the national identity, it transcends everyday life. It began in the 19th century with the arrival of Wesleyan Methodists. The turning point came with the conversion of King George Tupou I. The King, who had just unified the islands, denounced previous polytheistic traditions, and instituted a Christian kingdom. This, in turn, influenced the spread of Christianity to other Pacific Island nations.

Guide Robbie in traditional garb

In Tonga, daily life is steeped in tradition. Many Tongans wear a ta’ovala, a woven mat wrapped around the waist and tied with a cord. This symbolises respect and cultural identity. In a world that readily adopts Western lifestyle and clothing, it was refreshing to see such customs maintained. Tonga is the birthplace of the traditional kava ceremony. The ceremonial drink is made from the crushed roots of the kava plant and is shared to welcome guests and symbolise goodwill.

Two of Semisi's daughters watch the dancing

True to the country’s identity, the Friendly Islands, our driver, Semisi, invited all of us, 22 in total, to dinner at his family’s home. If that wasn’t challenging enough, there was also a power failure. But nothing could prevent Semisi from presenting a banquet of tasty traditional dishes: tuna ceviche, tender octopus, fish, suckling pig, taro leaves, yams and pumpkin. Car headlights provided illumination, and just as the meal was served, the power was restored. After dinner, Semisi provided entertainment, with five of his eight children doing traditional dances. A few years ago, Semisi was asked if he could host a group of travellers for Christmas lunch. He hired a tarpaulin, cooked up a storm, and now he does it regularly. We were privileged to enjoy his warm hospitality, a fitting end to our time in the Friendly Islands.

Ros Freeman travelled independently and at her own expense, but would not go anywhere unless Kirsty at Flight Centre Eastgardens booked her flights.

 

Disguised as a mild-mannered corporate employee,
Ros lives a secret life as a world traveller and adventurer
amassing a count of more than 150 UN-recognised countries.
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