Tuvalooing in Tuvalu

There’s something so very enticing about visiting the world’s least visited country, especially when that country is on Australia’s Pacific doorstep and is filled with warm, welcoming people.

Each time a plane lands in Funafuti, Tuvalu’s capital, it is an event. Residents gather by the airstrip’s edge and wave to those on board. The unfenced airstrip is the hub of Tuvalu. Locals relax, picnic and sleep on the grassy verge. They cycle, walk along the runway and play volleyball, cricket and soccer. Motorcyclists do laps around the perimeter.

Whenever a plane approaches a siren warns residents that the runway needs to be cleared; volleyball nets are taken down, cricket stumps are packed up and football games cease. Those asleep on the grassy verge wake and relocate. As soon as the plane departs, the siren sounds again; volleyball nets are re-erected, cricket stumps return, football resumes and those with a preference for sleeping beside the runway can continue their kip.

Coming in to land

 

Tuvalu is tiny. It consists of six coral atolls and three islands, covering 26 square kilometres. With a population of only 11,000, it’s the second least-populated country (after the Vatican). It receives only a few thousand visitors annually. Its isolated location, halfway between Australia and Hawaii, is the reason it’s scarcely visited.

I’m travelling with an adventure group, Young Pioneer Tours, doing one week of a four-week Pacific Island trip. There are only five of us on this leg. The bulk of the group are stranded in Kiribati as Air Nauru's fleet of four planes are all out of action. It's a good group, we become a little family, with Maa as our local guide. We have four days here. It’s a lot for a tiny country; however, life moves at a slow pace, so it's easy to stretch our days out.

 

Motorbikes are the preferred mode of transport in Tuvalu. We five rode and pillioned from one end of the island to the other. Even at 35kph it felt exhilarating. Glimpses of the sparkling ocean flashed between pandanus trees. We swam in the warm shallow waters of the lagoon. The sand appeared to be moving. Hundreds of tiny hermit crabs had gathered; a consortium. They were exchanging houses, swapping between tiny periwinkles and flute-like shells. We rode back to town, continuing to the airstrip, where we did a lap or two. Because that’s what everyone does in Funafuti on a Saturday night.

Tuvalu is a Polynesian Island. Prior to its independence the archipelago was known as the Ellice Islands. It was incorporated with the Gilbert Islands (now Kiribati) until the islanders voted for separation. In 1978 the country gained independence from British colonial rule. Five years later the country welcomed Queen Elizabeth II and Prince Philip. They were the first royals to visit the island.

The country is one of the lowest-lying countries. With a mean elevation of two metres above sea level, it’s vulnerable to tidal flooding and rising sea levels. In recent years, Tuvalu gained international attention for its efforts to combat climate change by implementing a range of green policies and land reclamation initiatives. Maa proudly showed us tracts of reclaimed land, financed by Australia and Taiwan. There are no rivers or lakes on the islands. Residents rely on rainwater, wells and desalination plants.

Tuvalu is a long way from self-sufficiency, relying on aid from Australia, New Zealand, Japan and Taiwan. Only three Pacific countries have an affiliation with Taiwan; Palau, Marshall Islands and Tuvalu. Recently, in July 2026, China lobbed a ballistic missile close to Tuvalu. China is friendly with Fiji, Tonga, Samoa. No ballistic missiles for them!

Tuvalu’s primary income is from fishing licences and international remittances. However, the country struck gold when it was assigned the internet country code .tv. By leasing this domain to media companies, the government has generated millions of dollars annually.

There are no ATMs in Tuvalu, and credit cards are not accepted. Visitors are required to use cash. Despite having its own distinct coinage, Tuvalu does not issue its own paper banknotes. Instead, the Australian Dollar is the official currency.

Funafuti lagoon glistened as we climbed aboard a tinny and motored to a small islet on the opposite side of the lagoon. The warm aqua waters lured us all in. Tropical fish darted between our legs. We swam until we were pruny, then we emerged and were treated to a traditional lunch; clam ceviche, fish, chicken, yams, taro and breadfruit. Once again tiny hermit crabs became our fascination. As the sun descended, we motored back across the lagoon.

Living the life in Tuvalu

Sunday is church day in Tuvalu. About 96% of the population are Christian, the majority belonging to the Church of Tuvalu. Church halls are filled, as the devoted sing and sway to harmonious hymns. Each evening between 6:45pm and 7:00pm there is a devotional curfew. Everyone must stay indoors or stop moving. Walking, driving, or being active on the streets is not allowed during this period of worship and prayer. Police officers enforce the quiet time, and people out on the road will be asked to pause and wait until it ends.

Tuvalu is known as the Land of the Friendly People. Here life is simple and everyone is happy. Women wear flowers behind their ears, men wear lava-lavas. At the beach kids play, swam and fish in the sparkling waters. Funafuti, it seems, begins and ends with fun.

A few years ago, there was only one flight a week, this was increased to three flights per week. Now the turboprops fly from Fiji five times a week, making visiting the least visited country much easier. Perhaps the least visited country will not be just that for much longer!

Farewell Tuvalu