A festive welcome in Porto leads to a convivial voyage through the Douro Valley, where vineyard views, historic estates, spirited cocktails and custard tarts reveal Ros Freeman finds Portugal at its most irresistible.
What a welcome! We walked into the Porto café to rousing applause and cheering. Goodness Gracious, Oh me Oh my, we gushed, then noticed the TV screen located directly above our heads; Portugal had just scored against Congo in the World Cup.
Portugal is a country filled with feasting and celebrating. They know how to have a good time. In Portugal, any time is a good time. Jane and I are here for two weeks, cruising on the Douro River, then travelling south to Lisbon.
Our stay was perfectly timed; not only was the World Cup in full swing, but in Porto it was also the feast of St. John the Baptist, paired with the pagan festival of the summer solstice. I wonder what St. John would think of that? Feasting and drinking extended through the day and into the evening. In recent times, colourful plastic hammers have become the festival's symbol, with everyone bonking each other on the head. I wonder what St. John would have thought of that?
Portugal is tiny, at 92,000 square kilometres; it’s a third larger than Australia’s Tasmania. It has a population of 12 million. A stellar example that size isn’t everything. The country’s history includes the Celts, the Romans and the Moors. From 1139 to 1910, the Monarchy ruled; this blossomed into the Age of Discovery when explorers such as Bartholomew Dias, Vasco de Gama, Pedro Alvarez Cabral and Ferdinand Magellan changed the way the world was perceived. The Portuguese Empire expanded, trade routes were opened, and religious, philosophical and architectural ideas were exchanged. Portugal became a world powerhouse. In 1910 the country became a republic, which led to a dictatorship between the years of 1939 and 1974. In 1986, Portugal joined the EU, shaping the country it is today.
Departing Porto, we cruised up the Douro River aboard the MS Douro Elegance. Days were spent enjoying vineyard vistas and excursions to wineries, townships and castles. Nights were spent dining with newfound friends. Of the 114 passengers, most were English. They were delightful, friendly and ever so polite. ‘After you’, ‘No, after you’, ‘I insist, No, no, you go ahead’. When we finally reached the buffet, the food was still warm, and there was still alcohol left in the bar. After discovering the delights of the Douro Passion cocktail (white port, spiced rum, lemon juice, passionfruit pulp), I noticed how friendly everyone was. Was this the friendliest cruise ever? Our cruise director was a maverick, beguiling us with facts and entertaining us with trivia. Remarkably, she got everyone up dancing, with people discarding their walking sticks and Zimmer frames to boogie on the dance floor.
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| Another Douro Passion bites the dust |
The river is 900 kilometres long, with fifteen dams and five locks. Never has staring at a gate been such a riveting experience, but the fascination with locks had us all watching as gates descended and ascended. The purpose-built river boats are a snug fit; however, sometimes with high water levels the crew needs to duck, and the top sides are lowered to enable the boat to fit beneath the bridge. Between 1964 and 1985, the dams and locks were built to harness hydroelectric power and to allow the passage of boats down the once-turbulent river.
Wine has been produced in the Douro valley since Roman times. During the Anglo-French wars, the British aimed to replace French wines with Portuguese wines. Port was accidentally invented When British merchants fortified Portuguese wines with brandy to ensure they survived long sea voyages. Wines were originally transported down the Douro River in sturdy flat-bottomed boats called rabelos. Highly skilled boatsmen navigated the boats over dangerous rapids.
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| Mateus Palace |
Synonymous with Portugal is that lovely word ‘Mateus’. Ah yes, I remember well, my first, second and maybe third hangover was a result of too much Mateus rosé. Afterwards, empty bottles were turned into decorator pieces complete with dripping candles. The bottle label features a drawing of the elegant Mateus Palace. It was wonderful to visit the estate, tour the homestead and wander around the exquisite gardens
Another day, another winery. This time it was Quinta da Pacheca. A superb dinner was paired with appropriate wines. Afterwards we hit the dance floor, expending 400 calories, 400,000 to go. We could have spent the night in a huge restored wine barrel, waking to a view of the vineyards, but sometimes there can be too much of a good thing.
The following day was a well-timed visit to ‘Our Lady of Remedies’ church in Lamego. Our fellow passengers' heads were bent in prayer; I think I can guess what they were praying for!
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| Douro view |
One of Portugal’s best ambassadors is Pastel de Nata. These little Portuguese custard tarts deserve a place in exalted cuisine. We quickly became tart connoisseurs. The tart has a curious origin. Portuguese nuns used egg whites to starch clothes and to clarify wine, the egg yolks were left over. These little tarts provided a perfect solution.
Other Portuguese specialities included grilled sardines and Bacalhau, a traditional Portuguese dish made from salted cod, imported from Norway. Francesinha a Portuguese sandwich made with layers of bread, steak, cured ham and sausages, smothered in melted cheese, drenched in a beer and tomato sauce and served with French fries. It’s also known as a heart-attack on a plate.
It was the early Portuguese explorers who discovered red and green peppers, corn, tomatoes and potatoes. Also spices and tea. They introduced tempura to Japan and vindaloo to India.
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| Flamenco dancers in Salamanca |
Portugal is about 200 kilometres wide; travel west, and you’ll soon be in Spain. We hopped on buses and travelled to Salamanca. The landscape changed from green and mountainous to brown and flat. Salamanca is one of Spain’s most beautiful cities and is famed for its university, the world’s fourth-oldest. University students add a vibrancy to this stately city. As we strolled around, we realised we were on the Santiago de Compostela walk. We managed a few steps. Only 460 kilometres to go. The day was hot, 40C. Curiously, they observe siesta in Spain, but not in Portugal.
Too soon, we were back in Porto, glorious Porto, enjoying tram rides and passing intricately tiled edifices, a Moorish influence, and Art Nouveau delights from Belgium. J.K. Rowling lived in Porto for a few years, which inspired elements of her Harry Potter books.
It was the end of St. John’s festival, with a religious procession through the city’s centre. On the other side of town, a colourful LGBTQ march was in place. Now what would St. John the Baptist think of that?
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| São Bento Station, Porto |
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