John Newton returned to his roots in northern England to board the Settle to Carlisle railway, a journey that traverses a spectacular viaduct and takes in the unforgettable landscapes of the Yorkshire Dales National Park and neighbouring Cumbria.
From the soaring arches of Ribblehead to the windswept heights of Dent, the Settle–Carlisle line remains one of Britain’s most compelling rail journeys—saved from closure and now firmly back on track.
Widely recognised as one of the world’s great rail journeys—often compared with the Glasgow to Mallaig route over the Glenfinnan Viaduct, the so-called “Harry Potter Bridge”—the Settle–Carlisle line once faced an uncertain future. In the 1980s, British Rail proposed closing the route, but a determined campaign by rail groups, local authorities—including the county councils of Cumbria, Lancashire and North Yorkshire—along with enthusiasts and residents, ultimately secured its survival.
As Britain’s transport minister at the time, Michael Portillo—now known for the long-running television series Great British Railway Journeys—announced a government U-turn, ensuring the line would remain open.
By far the highlight of the journey is the monumental Ribblehead Viaduct, with its 24 arches stretching 402 metres (440 yards) across the landscape and rising 32 metres (105 feet) above the valley floor. Ingeniously engineered, every sixth arch is constructed with double thickness, meaning that if one were to collapse, only five would follow.
Further along the line lies Dent, the highest main line station in England, where the train skirts the dramatic scenery of the Yorkshire Dales before continuing into the softer contours of the Cumbrian countryside.
Today, the line operates several daily services, primarily using diesel locomotives, although occasional steam charters add a nostalgic dimension. The train winds through rolling hills, manicured moorland, kilometres of Roman walls, babbling streams, pristine rivers and a succession of historic towns and villages.
Although the journey covers just 117 kilometres in around one hour and 40 minutes, what it lacks in distance it more than compensates for in visual grandeur. Between Settle and Carlisle—near the England–Scotland border—there are 20 stations (11 currently open), 17 major viaducts and 14 tunnels.
Completed in 1876, it was the last mainline railway in England built largely by manual labour, and its history has been marked by both ambition and adversity. Since its reprieve in 1989, millions of pounds have been invested in restoring the railway, its stations and infrastructure, including the visitor centre at Ribblehead and preserved signal boxes such as the one at Settle.
Settle itself, nestled in the foothills of the Pennines, is a lively market town well worth a stay of several days. Nearby attractions include Attermire Scar, with its network of caves containing prehistoric remains; a series of striking waterfalls; the Settle Hydro, Weir and Salmon Ladder; and the limestone landscapes of Ribblesdale. The area is dominated by Yorkshire’s famed Three Peaks—Ingleborough, Pen-y-ghent and Whernside—which draw climbers, hikers and walkers year-round.
At the northern end of the line, Carlisle offers more than 2,000 years of history. Highlights include Hadrian’s Wall, the city’s cathedral and Tullie House, connected via a granite walkway to Carlisle Castle.
One of the line’s more poignant stories can be found at Garsdale station, just north of Dent, where a statue commemorates Ruswarp, a local dog with an extraordinary legacy. Perched on the southbound platform, the statue marks the 20th anniversary of the railway’s reprieve.
Ruswarp’s paw print was accepted as a valid signature in the petition opposing closure, as he was technically a fare-paying passenger. Tragically, only months after the line was saved, his owner died while walking in the Welsh mountains. Ruswarp remained by his side for nearly three months in harsh winter conditions. When finally found, the dog was severely weakened and survived only long enough to attend his owner’s funeral.
Where to Stay
Oozing character, The Angel at Hetton—formerly the Angel Inn—lies just over 10 kilometres from Settle and ranks among North Yorkshire’s most historic pubs, complete with a multi award-winning restaurant.
This nine-room rural retreat has recently changed hands and is undergoing an extensive refurbishment by its new owners. The property remains open through the festive season and New Year before closing briefly for further works. Plans include the addition of a second dining space offering more casual fare alongside the established fine dining experience.
One of the new proprietors, Michael Wignall, has earned a Michelin star at every restaurant he has led since 1993.
More details on the Settle–Carlisle railway and the Yorkshire Dales region: www.yorkshire.com
Words: John Newton
Images: John Newton and supplied
Main Image: Ann Dallaway/Settle-Carlisle Railway Development Company
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