Ethiopian Explorations and the Beauty of the Omo Valley

Are they the most beautiful people in Africa? Ros Freeman dives into the famed Omo Valley of Ethiopia and finds herself both enthralled and taken back in time.

.

Words and photos: Ros Freeman. Main Image: Mario Gerth

The first thing you notice when you arrive at Addis Ababa airport is the date. It’s 2018. The Ethiopian calendar is seven years behind the Gregorian calendar. There are thirteen months in a year, the new year commences in September, and Christmas is in January. Ethiopia moves to the beat of a different drum. The time also differs. The day begins at dawn, with only twelve hours in a day: from 6.00am to 6.00pm; the remaining twelve hours are night.

Symphonie and the Capitals of the Danube with CroisiEurope

Enjoy the scenic Danube aboard a CroisiEurope river cruise. John Newton sailed aboard Symphonie

With the crack of a whip, the dynamic riding skills of Hungarian horsemen thrilled the crowd in the old wooden stand, providing one of the highlights on a 1000-kilometre cruise along Europe’s second longest river – the Danube. John joined CroisiEurope’s rivership - Symphonie – for the eight-day cruise spanning three countries.

Cruising the Rhine with CroisiEurope

Captaining a river-cruising vessel is not always plain sailing, as the unpredictable can be just around the bend and create a dilemma for captain, crew and passengers. Having the expertise to turn a chance problem into a positive is essential. 

Travel Throwback: Airport Adventures

For most of us, travel means. airports. You can't avoid them, but can you learn to love them?

Airports are adding all types of rooms, including tiny hotel rooms for travellers who want to sleep a few hours, massive rooms where premium passengers can lounge in luxury and even prison cells. 

I came across the latter recently on a tour of Zurich Airport. Our minivan passed a large grey building with small square windows on the runway perimeter. A new hotel, 1 wondered. "No, our guide explained candidly. "It's a prison for those arriving who are not legal in Switzerland."

Down to my last Guinea

Globetrotter, Ros Freeman, continues her quest to visit the lesser-known countries of the world.

Guinea is just as you’d imagine an African country to be. Jungle-covered mountains tumble down to a myriad of waterways. It’s the source of three major rivers and home to elephants, leopards and monkeys. In the rainforest, an abundance of brilliant butterflies and iridescent dragonflies flitter by, while thundering waterfalls enveloped us in fine mists.

Be enchanted by Borneo

Few islands in the world evoke the sense of mystery and fascination that Borneo does. Throughout history, the world’s third-largest island (after Greenland and New Guinea and excluding the continent of Australia) has attracted a rich array of merchants, adventurers and entrepreneurs, and now intrepid travellers and tourists can be added to the list of visitors as they pursue their own personal adventures in Borneo.

Travel Snapshot: Canary Islands

Today we are in Las Palmas, in the Canary Islands, of which there are seven main islands about 100 km northwest of the African continent. Tenerife is probably the best known and there are many smaller islands in the archipelago. 

Travel Snapshot: Casablanca

Casablanca. Sounds exciting doesn’t it - particularly for those of you who remember the famed film. 

Sadly, though, it is far from being a destination icon - in fact, it's the sort of place you get out of as quickly as possible. 

Travel Snapshot: Spain's Alhambra

 

Spain's Alhambra is a lesson to us all about the power and beauty of simplicity and the importance of blending architecture with nature. In a beautiful hilltop setting of natural gardens, this haven for Sultans that dates back to 1238 takes you into another world - where architecture joins with nature to create one of the world's wonders. 

Travel Snapshot: Tasmanian Touring

You can really spend and head for the Pump House or Stillwater. We have experienced both properties and give them a high five. However, if you are looking for a very comfortable inner city property with a great restaurant, I would recommend The Sebel Launceston. 

Scoot into Vienna: Low Cost Travel into Austria's Flamboyant Capital

Scoot, the low-cost subsidiary of Singapore Airlines (SIA), recently began direct flights between Singapore and the Austrian capital, Vienna. David Bowden investigates. 

Scoot is the only airline offering direct flights between these two key destinations, with three weekly services operated by Boeing 787-8 Dreamliners between Vienna International Airport and Changi International Airport. This aircraft has a capacity for 329 passengers in two cabin classes. 

Nauru - the Country with the mostest, and the leastest

In 1968 Nauru was the world’s wealthiest country per capita. It was all due to phosphate, droppings of marine birds reacting with the coral limestone. Ros Freeman discovers the fascinating history of this Pacific micronation.

Nauru is a nation of superlatives. It’s the world’s least visited country. Once it was the world’s wealthiest country per capita. It has the highest proportion of smokers. There is no tax. How the country exists is a miracle. A limestone island in the middle of the Pacific, it has no fresh water. No crops grow on Nauru. However, there are plenty of fish. The name Nauru means ‘I go to the beach’. Perhaps it was the word uttered when a hapless boatman came ashore and asked the question ‘What is the name of this island?’ Nauru!

At first sighting this tiny island appears almost mythical. A speck in the Pacific Ocean, atop it a fluffy white cloud. Nauru, once known as Pleasant Island, is the world’s third smallest country. It has an area of 21 sqkm. Few people make the journey here. There are only 200 tourists per year. Our group of 24 supplying a generous component. Nauru has a population of 12,000.

The facilities are limited. The well-located Menen Hotel is the island’s main stay. However, it’s closed for renovations. Justin & Morgan, our tour leaders, have to scamper about to find alternative accommodation. They have their work cut out. There are no buses available either. We are billeted across the island, and ferried about in a fleet of hire cars. Somehow Justin & Morgan pull a few rabbits out of hats, and it all works out.

For us it merely adds to the sense of adventure. I’m billeted with the fun-loving Mina. We’re staying in a tiny house, it’s crisp and clean, and located on land owned by the family of our guide. We’re blessed having Cyndrae as our local guide. She shares with us the many quirks of island life. And there are many!

For decades phosphate mining fueled the economy, at its peak earning Nauru an estimated $100-120 million annually. Much of the revenue was squandered; hotels in Fiji and the Marshall Islands, shopping trips to Singapore and Fiji, expensive cars. Despite there being only 19km of paved road, one Nauruan indulged himself with a custom-built Lamborghini, bright yellow with bat-wing doors. When the car arrived, the gentleman, of considerable girth, was unable to fit into it. The government invested in ‘Leonardo the musical’, a fictionalized story about Leonardo da Vinci. It was one of the biggest disasters in the history of London theatre. The Nauru government lost £2 million.

Phosphate mining continues today, however is only expected to last a few more years. The phosphate is separated from the limestone before being shipped overseas for use at fertilizer. The devastation caused by the mining is staggering. Jagged forests of coral pinnacles are a haunting legacy. The mined land is uninhabitable.

Nauru is more recently known for its detention centres. Built in 2001, they were Australia’s ‘Pacific Solution’, housing refugees from Afghanistan, Bangladesh, Sri Lanka and Syria. About 1900 refugees passed through the gates. The detention centres are no longer in use, however about eight detainees have elected to remain on the island. They’re been welcomed by the Nauruans.

The old Japanese prison

Like all these Pacific nations, this peaceful little country has been affected by the war. Japanese forces occupied the island between 1942 and 1945. About 1200 Nauruans were deported to labour camps in Micronesia. In a jungle clearing we came across a rusted anti-aircraft gun. Nearby was the overgrown ruins of a Japanese prison.

By 1945, there were less than 800 Nauruans remaining on the island. With a drastic decline in population the country instigated Angam Day. Angam means jubilation in Nauruan. The holiday, on 26th October, commemorates the time when the population reached 1500, the minimum necessary for the survival of Nauruans. The day is affectionately nicknamed the ‘day to make babies’.

Phosphate cantilever in the distance

The soundscape for Nauru is the crow of roosters. Nauru must have the world’s highest concentration of chickens. Outside our tiny house is a caged rooster. He’s a fighter, Cyndrae tells me. Cock fighting is family entertainment in Nauru. What other pastimes are there? I asked. Cyndrae warmed to the conversation. There’s pass the burning pandanas fruit. Whoever gets burnt loses. And then there’s the orgy game. Though these days they don’t play that so much, as many babies were born with birth defects. Having sex with your cousin wasn’t such a good idea after all.

Scouting around for some more, er, conservative entertainment, a few of us ended up at a LGBT-friendly Kava and Karaoke Bar. Kava, I learnt, is the key to conquering the world’s problems. In the corner, a ciggie in one hand, a bottle of Kava in the other, sat Lance. He was massive, as many Nauruans are. Someone handed him the microphone and suddenly he became Elvis, crooning melodic ballads. Kozay, one of our guides, joined him in a duet. It was spine-tinglingly good. Contenders for ‘Nauru’s Got Talent’. A night to remember.

Sunrise over the pinnacles

It’s not every day you can say you’ve walked around an entire country, but in Nauru it’s the thing to do. A 19km ring road encircles the island. We began early as the sun rose over the limestone pinnacles. All those who commenced the walk completed it, however one person missed the finishing point and kept on walking. ‘Hey, that’s Ros, she’s doing another lap!’ said our guide. The Nauruans were in awe of me. They didn’t know about my poor sense of direction.

Today, 12,000 Nauruans rely on Australia for food and water. Bring sustainable isn’t a consideration. Mining has left most of the land rocky, barren, and unsuitable for vegetation. Power shortages are common. The island’s abandoned vehicles and rusted equipment serve as a reminder of Nauru’s prosperous past. Though the future is uncertain the Nauruans are a happy and optimistic. Against all odds they’ve survived on this barren little island. Somehow they’ll continue to do so.

Fact File

• Fly with Nauru Airlines
• Tour with Young Pioneer Tour

Ros Freeman travelled at her own expense and would not go anywhere unless Kirsty at Flight Centre Eastgardens booked her flights.

Disguised as a mild-mannered corporate employee,
Ros lives a secret life as a world traveller and adventurer
amassing a count of more than 150 UN-recognised countries.
Follow Ros on Instagram

South Africa’s Blue Train - it’s the Ritz on Rails

It's one of the world's most famous luxury train journeys offering a combination of unsurpassed luxury travel, five star-accommodation, fine cuisine & wine, personalised butler service and breathtaking views of the countryside. All aboard!

You are on the shortest tour in Africa,” John, our megaphone-mouthed, trumpet-wielding guide informs us, “the bus will turn left, because it cannot turn right!”

Cruising New Zealand with HAL Noordam - Art Deco Napier

Cruising in New Zealand is an often-overlooked pleasure. But it is also a reminder of past events.

 It was the first day of school for little 5-year-old Gordon Vogtherr and a day he’ll never forget as long as he lived.

Vietnam Revisted

Nearly 25 years ago, our inveterate correspondent, Ros Freeman, took a trip with her pal to the once forbidden land of Vietnam. Now she's back to relive some of those memories.

After being in Hanoi for 12 hours, I decided to face my fears. I’d put it off as long as I could, but it was inevitable; at some stage I’d have to cross the road. Memories of my first Vietnamese road-crossing 24 years ago still haunt me. Midway through crossing the road, a pillion passenger grabbed my handbag. Fortunately, I was grabbing harder. These days there are traffic lights and, amazingly, the traffic actually stops. Mostly.

Beyond Barcelona: A delicious madness

Catalonia’s capital, Barcelona, is one of the world’s flashpoints for the so-called overtourism phenomenon, but just a short ride by fast train will see you in delightful Girona - or its famous neighbour, Figueres.

Travel Throwback: True grit in big cities

Seen Slumdog Millionaire yet? The much-acclaimed movie, directed by British filmmaker Danny Boyle, is a gem set in the slums of India. It intersperses shots of India’s tourism icon, the Taj Mahal, with seamy, steamy sections of India’s cities that tourism promoters generally prefer to keep out of the limelight. Slumdog Millionaire also gives insights into India’s underworld, the abode of ‘dacoits’ (as India terms armed bandits), organisers of professional begging rings and other exotic lowlife.

Travel Throwback: Twitter travel freebies beat media munching

An Englishman has flitted his way around the world, flying top airlines and rubbing shoulders with scintillating people, for practically nothing. He used the social media phenomenon Twitter to obtain free travel from fellow users.

Cruisey Cambodia

World traveller, Ros Freeman, lies back and lets the Mekong do its magic.

Sitting on the Sun Deck, sipping a welcome cocktail, I immediately slipped into cruise mode. Surrounding me was an excited contingent of travellers, ahead the adventure of nine days cruising the languid waters of Cambodia and Vietnam.

Palau: Adventures in Paradise

Tiny Palau is one nation fighting the good fight for environmental awareness. World traveller Ros Freeman island-hops her way to this speck in the Pacific to investigate.

The Top Heritage Hotels of Asia

1 Raffles Hotel Singapore

It’s hard not to tip your hat to Singapore’s Raffles Hotel as the top heritage hotel in South East Asia. Dating back to 1887, with the main building and rooms completed in 1899, it is entirely authentic and dripping with history. 

Egypt: Raise a Sail on the Nile

The ancient city of Aswan is just one of the highlights of an Intrepid Travel tour of Egypt

Words: Roderick Eime

Ahmed manhandles the rigging with all the aplomb of a practised hand. There’s just the right amount of wind to fill the big lateen sail and propel us along at an impressive clip.

How a hobby for vintage vinyl and retro HiFi influenced a luxury Thai hotel brand

Devasom Resort Hua Hin has its own type of time machine. Just listen.

When Ath Atirak carefully drops the stylus onto the vinyl, he can feel himself being transported back to another era.

Only in India

Chaotic, colourful, captivating. World traveller, Ros Freeman, immerses herself in the delicious frenzy that can only be 'incredible' India.

Greece: Antiparos Holiday

My favourite holiday destination is a small island in Greece called Antiparos (population of just over 1,000) which I’ve been visiting for over 25 years. The first time I went there as a backpacker was in 1982 - then the island was mainly visited by Scandinavians and Italians, and very rarely did the locals see an Australian tourist.

Love and Kisses from Kosovo

Tungjatjeta! World Traveller, Ros Freeman, embraces the sort-of country of Kosovo and finds her affection returned.

‘May you live a long and happy life’. Kushtrim greets me as I arrived at his hotel. For Kosovars greetings are an integral part of life. Men shake hands, give a little hug, sometimes a kiss on the cheek and, finally, a parting handshake. It’s a fine way to spend an afternoon. 

Eric Hallin, the real legend of Chiang Rai

Mention the name Eric Hallin—or Khun Eric, as he’s known in Thailand—to anyone in the hospitality, travel, or tourism industry, and you’re bound to receive a smile in return. Known for his charm, composure, and dry wit, Eric has spent over five decades shaping travel experiences, including more than 43 years as a hotelier and over 40 as a General Manager.

Roll Over Moldova

Nostalgia for the former Soviet Union is alive and well in Moldova and Transnistria. Ros Freeman revisits what was once - and perhaps still is - the USSR.

Main photo: Flickr user AMWRanes

The little red train tore through the tunnels of Cricova. The tunnel complex is huge, so lengthy there are road signs along the way. We whizzed past Cabernet Street and along Sauvignon Street, stopping at the occasional red light. Oh, how I wished to detour along Rosé Road, Pinot Parade or Champagne Crescent, but our train driver was on a course.

Could you survive an aircraft emergency? This is why you put the tray table up.

Straighten up and fly right

ALL the rules and procedures about flying on planes can make the journey a real drag. Buckle this, stow that, turn that off. Are all these regulations just to intimidate passengers and make aircrew feel important?

Paul (not his real name) flew as cabin crew with a major Australian carrier for more than a decade. I asked him about some of the rigmarole that most of us ignore.

Navigating the Bangkok Mass Transit Systems

No matter where I travel, I try to experience public transport, especially trains and light rail. You’d think that after living in Sydney for 40 years, I would have had more than my fill, but I still have a fascination with the emerging technologies, and I much prefer a ride in a tram or train to sitting in a traffic jam.

Listen to this story
(Beta testing)

Having visited Bangkok for 20 years, I have noticed the evolution of mass rapid transit in that sprawling city. Despite at least three independent systems (BTS, MRT, and SRT) that initially required circus-like athleticism to negotiate, these once isolated systems are becoming increasingly contiguous.

Norway: Chasing the Northern Lights

One of the very best travel pursuits is people watching. In the cosy confines of a downtown cafe I perched upon a stool studying the passing parade. There’s a certain look about Norwegians I decide; tall, lean, stylish and always with beautiful skin and hair. It’s the first of Oslo’s sunny days and the mood is elevated. People take off their beanies and gloves and face the sun, a form of worship that includes vitamin D. A tall stocky man walks by sporting a beard and a long white mane. Pure Viking. All that was missing was a horned helmet. A little later, I encountered him again. ‘G’day’, he said. No escaping the Aussies.

Enchanting Vietnam

While Vietnam’s recorded history goes back thousands of years, the Vietnam War (referred to by the Vietnamese as the American War) which raged from 1961 to 1975 is what largely features in the minds of many foreigners. Vietnam is now a country at peace with the upwardly mobile younger generation knowing very little of the disastrous years that killed millions, destroyed much of the countryside and slowed the country’s economic development for years afterward.

Enchanting Malaysia

Malaysia is a vibrant destination that retains many elements of its diverse culture while having cities as modern as elsewhere in Asia. The people of Malaysia are open to and interested in foreigners and are, as such, welcoming and friendly. They are justifiably proud of the wonderful range of dining delights in the country and are more than happy to share a meal with visitors.

Hotel Review: Sofitel Fiji Resort and Spa

We were on a quick business trip to Nadi - and decided to soak up a bit of sun and luxury at the Sofitel Fiji Resort and Spa. We used Welcome Pickups to organise a transfer from Nadi Airport - the service was excellent both ways - and good value. 

The Cedars in Hahndorf: The ancestral home of Sir Hans Heysen

Originally published in Australian Country Magazine January 2022

The ancestral home of Sir Hans Heysen is an art and nature lover’s pilgrimage, lovingly preserved by the great painter’s family.

The word ‘iconic’ gets bandied about endlessly in the new vocabulary of inane hyperbole. But I think we can safely say, Sir Hans Heysen rates as the real deal when it comes to the cream of Australian landscape artists.

Raise a toast to Westerdam

There are many things to love about cruising, but the first is the warm welcome you receive even before stepping aboard. At White Bay Cruise Terminal, passengers were spilling in. A group of 20 Jamaicans was colourfully clad in their country's colours; others were also colour-coordinated, but one thing that united everyone was the smile on everyone's face.

Wintering in Britain – get cosy or go Gothic

Anglophile Peter Needham beckons you to explore Britain in winter and reveals some little-known advantages of travel in the chilly season.

 

Most Britons view with suspicion the notion of exploring their own country in winter. They prefer to holiday abroad and leave winter explorations of Britain to unorthodox foreigners and local eccentrics. Winter touring can, in fact, be pleasant and rewarding: you face little competition when sightseeing; queues disappear; road traffic dwindles, accommodation is easy to obtain (and often cheaper), and villages are wondrously free of tourist coaches. 

Sydney Swans kick goals on inaugural Princess Cruise

There was plenty of 'cheer cheer the red and the white' when the inaugural Sydney Swans Member Cruise set sail over the Australia Day long weekend on the Princess Cruises' Crown Princess ship.

Words: Carolyn Cummins Images: Toby Zerna Media

Setting off from Sydney’s sparkling harbour bound for Hobart, the four-day cruise hosted about 300 one-eyed Swannies fans who paid to mingle with a collection of former players, current women players, the girls’ team senior coach and the club’s chief executive Tom Harley.

Vietnam is the new must-see destination - A river cruise is the way to go

Vietnam turns 50 this year. It will celebrate its golden anniversary as a unified and independent country in April with major cities and the countryside towns all preparing for what will be big celebrations.

Words: Carolyn Cummins     Images: Carolyn Cummins, Roderick Eime, CF Mekong

Seashells by the Seychelles

Bonzour! Inveterate world traveller Ros Freeman jump starts her African odyssey with an all-too-short stop in the Seychelles

I glimpse the Seychelles through my aircraft window, and instantly I have regrets. Why am I only spending four days in this tiny tropical haven? Why didn’t I allow more time?

Mind Blowing: An epic 5000km ride through land-locked, bomb-scarred Laos.

By Stu Lloyd.

Imagine a flight of US bombers zooming in low over your village and dropping their payload of devastating 500lb bombs. Now imagine one of those lands right on your whole extended family -- your brothers and sisters, uncles and aunts, your grandparents -- and obliterates them and your family home.

Mr Si Pan doesn’t have to imagine it, because he watched the entire drama unfold from behind the protection of a large tree, through his 9-year-old eyes. The same eyes that now well with moisture as he relates that event in far north-eastern Laos from 50 years ago. 

Witness to History: Photographer Mike Larder

Mike Larder - capturing iconic moments

I was born in England in 1953, allegedly under the shadow of the walls of Maidstone Prison.

I was chained, manacled and dragged screaming from the shores of Blighty at the tender age of three to follow the tracks of one of my predecessors who received free passage and accommodation in the penal settlement at Port Arthur. 

We were ten quid refugees. Our transport was a rusting hulk, The Moreton Bay, apparently on its last trip (and legs) before being scrapped and turned into jam tins. The irony is that I lived adjacent to Moreton Bay in Queensland for many years.

After we stepped ashore in Tasmania, I suppose you could say we became peasant farmers as my father worked on farms growing apple trees.

Novotel reinvents the airport hotel

When I started flying, I travelled around the country in Boeing 727s, Douglas DC-9s, and Fokker F27 Friendships for junior sports championships and family holidays. The notion of airport hotels was something you might have seen in an episode of The Jetsons.