Vietnam Revisted

Nearly 25 years ago, our inveterate correspondent, Ros Freeman, took a trip with her pal to the once forbidden land of Vietnam. Now she's back to relive some of those memories.

After being in Hanoi for 12 hours, I decided to face my fears. I’d put it off as long as I could, but it was inevitable; at some stage I’d have to cross the road. Memories of my first Vietnamese road-crossing 24 years ago still haunt me. Midway through crossing the road, a pillion passenger grabbed my handbag. Fortunately, I was grabbing harder. These days there are traffic lights and, amazingly, the traffic actually stops. Mostly.

Ros (R) and Jane on the Pho. Hoi An, 2001

I’m travelling south through Vietnam, revisiting places that Jane, my long-time travel buddy and I saw in 2001 on our Intrepid Colonial Vietnam itinerary. This time I’m on another 10-day Intrepid Travel trip, the Vietnam Express Southbound, midst the company of just 16 fellow travellers.

Hanoi's Sword Lake

The first road-crossing behind me, I rapidly got the hang of it, jaywalking like a local. Hanoi’s Old Quarter is colourful and chaotic. Originally, the 36 streets were represented by 36 crafts; gold street, silver street etc. Over the years, artisans have moved on and new ones have arrived, but the idea is still the same. I walked down Tableware Street, Shoe Street and into the fresh markets where fruit was displayed in colourful abundance; rich red dragon fruit, grapes on steroids, perfect mangos, finger limes by the handful. I passed Toy Street, Beer Street and wandered into Food Street. Though every street in Hanoi appears to be Food Street. 

It’s against the law of physics how the Vietnamese can eat so much while remaining so slim and elegant. Day or night, people are always eating. The buzz of motorbikes is incessant, intermingled with the sound of bird calls. Dozens of tiny finches reside in birdcages. Rarely is there silence, and when it occurs, it’s deafening.

While much of Hanoi had changed, high-rise buildings, better roads and traffic lights. Still some things remained the same. The lake was just where I left it last time, and around it, I’m sure were the sons and daughters of the people who tried to sell me fans and souvenirs last time. Ladies danced by the lakeside, lovers picnicked and schoolchildren practised their English with pale-skinned foreigners. The lake was just as joyful as I remembered it.

Train Street Hanoi

Down by Train Street, everyone had their cameras cocked waiting for the arrival of the 11.45am. Who’d have thought having a business right next to the train line could be such a gold mine, but there wasn’t a spare seat in any of the cafes. Six times daily the train travels down this narrow street in downtown Hanoi. Suddenly the guard began to whistle furiously, tea-cups began to wobble and around the bend came the train, the rolling stock thundering past. Pure theatre. 

Leaving Hanoi we travelled east to Halong Bay. Majestic limestone pinnacles rise from the water. Halong Bay is a jewel in Vietnam’s crown. Our little boat was one of 15 such craft gently cruising the bay. Nearby pearl fishermen, part of the floating village, tended their oysters. We were lulled to sleep with the lapping of the waves. A few nights later, it was a different sound that lulled us to sleep, it was the clackety-clack of the Reunification Express.

Halong Bay

It’s remarkable how adults can suddenly turn into children as soon as they board a train. Our four-berthed cabins were clean and recently renovated. However, it was the corridor where the action took place. This time it was us waving to the locals as we passed through Train Street. 

Our Intrepid guide,
Quang, was terrific

In the next carriage, the Vietnamese were partying, and in between carriages, tweets and meows were coming from cages as birds and cats experienced a rickety ride. With a supreme piece of luck, my cabin mates happened to come equipped with French wine and crackers. One bottle down, then another. Clackety-clack, clackety clack. 

Too soon we were unravelling ourselves in Hue, once the ancient capital. In Hue, another form of transport awaited us, this time it was motorbikes. Keys were tossed into a motorcycle helmet for us to choose. Just like a 60s swingers party! We donned blue and white helmets, climbed aboard, then buzzed around Hue. We made quite a swarm. 

Hue came alive as we rode past rice fields, toured the ancient citadel, visited an incense factory and dined on top of a mountain. Vietnam is the motorbike capital of the world. 86% of households own at least one bike. A motorbike has many purposes: travelling, transporting good and even sleeping. We see families of four on their bike, people carrying fridges, animals, construction material. However, I might save those tricks for next time. 

Motorbike mayhem in Hue

In Hue we enjoyed a personal touch, as this is the home town of Quang, our tour leader. During Covid, when tourism had halted, Quang and his brother-in-law opened a coffee shop, serving salted coffee, a Hue specialty. There’s a significant coffee culture in Vietnam. After Brazil, the country is the second largest exporter of coffee. A Hanoi specialty, egg coffee tastes like tira misu, coconut coffee is refreshing, however weasel coffee we avoided. Weasels eat coffee beans and once digested the beans are gathered, roasted and voila! weasel coffee. Um, pass.

Travelling south we arrived at the charming town of Hoi An. Once a busy trading town, business came to a halt when the river silted up and boats were unable to access the township. Nowadays it’s been reborn; visitors flock in, tailors do a brisk trade, as do gelato shops and lantern manufacturers. The township is aglow with lanterns. Down by the river there’s a bevy of boats, each filled with excited visitors floating lighted candles on the water. 

Japanese Bridge, Hoi An

In Ho Chi Minh City we viewed the city’s highlights. There’s much to do in this vibrant capital city. Vietnam is renowned for many things, including its markets, spas and cuisine. We shopped, luxuriated and gourmandized. We tucked into Vietnamese pancakes and Pho, being careful not to ask for Fo (long O) because asking for a prostitute with extra chili would raise a few eyebrows. Emerging from dinner we came across a walking street. Live music blared, lights pulsated and girls danced on tiny stages. 

It’s hard to believe that The Socialist Republic of Vietnam is a communist country. People pay their own medical and education expenses. There is plenty of free enterprise. The country has one of the fastest-growing economies. Despite being a tiny country, 331,000 square kilometres (one and a half times the size of Victoria) it has a population of 100 million.

I had an opportunity to revisit the Mekong, once again dipping into the cottage industries; the honey farm, a coconut sweet manufacturer then being treated to a family-cooked meal. Revisiting Cu Chi tunnels was a sobering reminder of the war and the tenacity and ingenuity of the Vietnamese. The tunnels extend for 250km. Vietnamese soldiers lived in the tunnels for 20 years. Above ground agent orange, napalm and bombs were dropped. This year marks the 50th anniversary of the end of the war.

The incense lady in Hue

My Vietnam journey ended at Hotel Majestic, just as it began when travelling with Jane in 2001. The doorman welcomed me in and with a look of familiarity, said ‘you’ve been here before?’ The hotel was just as grand as I remember. I took a walk around the area, clutching onto my handbag as I crossed the road. But no need to. Every experience I had in Vietnam was filled with wonder, fun and joy. It was the people who made the experience; those with whom I travelled, the tour guides, the local people. 

Vietnam is a remarkable country filled with remarkable people. Their spirit, determination and lust for life are legendary. It’s a nation of people who never look back. 

Ros Freeman travelled with Intrepid Travel at her own expense and would not go anywhere unless Kirsty at Flight Centre Eastgardens booked her flights. 

Disguised as a mild-mannered corporate employee,

Ros lives a secret life as a world traveller and adventurer

amassing a count of more than 150 UN-recognised countries.

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