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| Takayama's old town is beautifully preserved. |
December 28, 2019
Discover the beauty of traditional Takayama in Japan
December 27, 2019
Terowie, SA: "I Shall Return"
Near ghost town where, in 1942, General Douglas MacArthur made his famous "I shall return" speech
Words: Bruce Elder / AussieTowns - Images: Roderick Eime
There was a time when the population of Terowie was over 2,000. Today, with a population of around 200, it is a tiny township on the edge of becoming a ghost town. The reason: Terowie came into existence as part of the railway network which was built in South Australia in the late 19th century. With three different railway gauges meeting at the town it was vital to an economy driven by rail.
Then, in the 1970s, the rail was reduced to a single line and there was no need for Terowie. The town collapsed and was designated an historic town because of its large number of well preserved 19th century buildings. Today there are old stores and shops reminding visitors that, back in the 1880s, it was a vibrant and important railway town.
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| In 1966 the last regular passenger rail service left Terowie. |
On the railway station platform at Terowie, on the 20 March, 1942, one of the most famous speeches/statements of World War II was made.
It was here, for the first time, that General Douglas MacArthur declared “I Shall Return”. He would go on to say it over and over again until, eventually, he did return to the Philippines to drive the Japanese out of that country and to help win the war in the Pacific.
The context was strange. MacArthur, the Supreme Commander of the Allied Forces in the South West Pacific, had escaped from Corregidor in the Philippines by PT boat, reached Mindanao, had flown to Batchelor Airfield south of Darwin, flew to Alice Springs and that was where he had caught a train.
| The general, Mrs MacArthur and son |
He was travelling south to Adelaide, and then on to Melbourne, with his wife and support staff on a personal train (such are the luxuries of a Supreme Commander) which comprised a steam engine, bogie van, dining car, two sleeping cars plus brake van.
While changing trains in Terowie, MacArthur stood on the railway platform – I love the description from one of the newspapers at the time – “The tough tall guy, with a whisky bottle at his belt, a tame flying fortress, and a legendary habit of shooting his way through red tape” made his speech regarding the Battle of the Philippines in which he said: "I came out of Bataan and I shall return".
It was the first time he said it and it became a legendary observation about the war in the Pacific.
It was as memorable for people in Australia and the United States as any of Churchill’s speeches about Europe. A blunt “we shall never surrender”.
It is also worth remembering that this statement of resolve and determination was said at a time when the Japanese were making impressive headway in the movement to the south. They had forced MacArthur to flee from the Philippines and the plane he was flying in could not land in Darwin because the town was being bombed by the Japanese. “I shall return” was determination against powerful evidence of imminent defeat.
The ever-reliable Monument Australia website (there is a monument to the event on the Terowie platform) records: “Douglas MacArthur arrived at Terowie Railway Station and much to MacArthur’s surprise his "secret" arrival in Terowie was not so secret. A huge cheer went up from the locals who had gathered when he left the train.
“General MacArthur responded by striding towards an opening between a line of railway carriages and saluted the people of Terowie on the other side of the carriages and some passengers on a nearby train. MacArthur was dressed in a loose hanging jacket and slacks and wore no decorations or insignia except for a laurel wreathed peak on his cap and another emblem.
“On being asked if he would reach the United States he said:- "The President of the United States ordered me to break through the Japanese lines and proceed to Corregidor to Australia for the purpose, as I understand it, of organising an American offensive against Japan, the primary purpose of which is the relief of the Philippines. I came out of Bataan and I shall return".
The sleeping carriage NRC36 where MacArthur was resting when he got to Terowie is now in the Pichi Richi Railway Preservation society collection at Quorn, just north of Terowie.
December 22, 2019
Take your time to experience Disneyland
Disneyland Park has always been the number one U.S. day trip for Australians but there is so much to see and do at The Happiest Place on Earth in 2020 that you really need to spend several days at the resort.
Now, I have to tell you right from the start that Disneyland Park has always been at the very top of the list of places to visit for me: it holds a special place in my heart.
And it is even better than ever with lots to see and do if you arrange to spend a week or so in Anaheim.
There is traditional Disneyland Park with its attractions like the new Star Wars ….and its famous street parades. Add to this Disney's California Adventure and Disney Downtown and you have several days of fun filled action to the time of your life.
I recently spent 12 days in Anaheim staying at the Courtyard by Marriott Anaheim Theme Park Entrance and the Hyatt Regency Orange County and I arranged to get the Disney Park Hopper Pass that allowed me to swap between Disneyland and California Adventure at will.
Both parks are just a few paces apart, facing each other, but they offer completely different experiences. Disneyland was part of growing up for Australia babyboomers. We watched in awe as Walt himself showed off his park on the Sunday night Disneyland TV show and occasionally on the Mickey Mouse Club show.
Generations of Aussies have cruised on the Mark Twain, rode the Disneyland railroad, laughed on the Jungle Ride, met Mickey and Donald Duck, visited the Pirates of the Caribbean and revelled in my personal favorite, It's a Small Small World.
Now those same babyboomers are taking their families and their grandkids to see the place of their childhood dreams. And Disneyland never disappoints.
It is still the jewel in the crown of all theme parks with a special magic that overwhelms you as you wander down Main Street dodging horse drawn trams and ancient fire engines, bound for Cinderella's castle that dominates the horizon.
In 2020, it is the massive Star Wars land that is drawing the crowds. At the Star Wars: Galaxy's Edge attraction you can launch into the Star Wars universe. Rides include the Millennium Falcon: Smugglers Run and he forthcoming Star Wars: Rise of the Resistance.
The park opens at 8am most days and I made sure I was there early before the crowds began to flock in. This allowed me to walk straight on to several favourite rides without lining up. As the park became busier I went to Disney Downtown for lunch and then nipped into California Adventure Park for the afternoon.
I wasn't sure what to expect after Disneyland. What an amazing surprise it was. California Adventure is every bit good as Disneyland in its own right.
The Disney "Imagineers" have mentioned to take the many lessons learnt at Disneyland and applied them to the newer park.
For starters, the Main Street plan of Disneyland with its tram running down the street has been maintained and enhanced with a replica Los Angeles Electric "Red Car" meandering along.
While Disneyland is a recreation of Walt's home town of Marceline in the early 1900s, California Adventure is Hollywood when Disney set up his studio in the 1920s.
However it has unique attractions like the complete full scale "set" from the Cars animated movies and the awesome Grizzly Peak with the best Flume Ride I have ever been on.
My personal favourite is "Flying" a unique hang glider like ride around the world. You really do feel like you are in mid air over the plains of Africa and Sydney Harbor.
At the opposite end of the park is Guardians of the Galaxy's giant tower which dominates the horizon. Then there is Hollywood Land which is much better than the real Hollywood.
Finally, if you are going to Disneyland, don't rush. Pick a recommended hotel close to the resort and relax and enjoy the time of your life spread of a week or so.
Words and images: Dallas Sherringham.
Feature supplied by: www.wtfmedia.com.au
For details
Disneyland Park: https://disneyland.disney.go.com/
Hyatt Regency Orange County: https://www.hyatt.com/en-US/hotel/california/hyatt-regency-orange-county/alica
1: The Big Wheel is one of the highlights of the amazing California Adventure Park
2: Inside the new Star Wars: Galaxy Quest attraction at Disneyland Park (supplied)
3: People of all ages from all around the world flock towards the famous Disneyland Castle
4: Dallas Sherringham and wife Sharon getting up courage to go on the Splash Mountain ride
5: Sharon went on the Splash Mountain Ride alone after Dallas chickened out...yet again!
6: The legendary Mark Twain paddle steamer is one of the few original rides at Disneyland.
December 11, 2019
History remade as cruise ship visits South Australia's Copper Coast
When CMV's Vasco da Gama made its maiden call to sleepy Wallaroo, the town and its history came alive. Roderick Eime is there for the big day.
Her lace bonnet almost brushed the low ceiling of the stiflingly small room as her hand swept above the kitchen table, set with the expectant clutter of bone-handled cutlery and blue willow porcelain.
December 10, 2019
MSC: Is this the future of cruising?
Our committed cruiser casts a critical eye over one of the world's most advanced cruise ships, the newly launched MSC flagship, the 6000-passenger Grandiosa. Words: Roderick Eime
We all know the cruise industry has attracted criticism in recent times for some environmentally unsavoury practices. Whether it is the discharge of waste water, air pollution or overuse of single-use plastics, the multi-billion-dollar cruise industry certainly has some questions to answer.
The story of Vaucluse House and those who lived there
On a peaceful, green, upward slope from the sparkling blue of Sydney Harbour, about six miles from the heart of the modern City, lie the grounds and the old colonial mansion known as Vaucluse House. It is one of the cherished historical possessions of Australia, preserved to-day as a relic of former times, as a memorial to William Charles Wentworth whose home it was, and as a fascinating museum of domestic furniture and furnishings in the early-to-mid Nineteenth Century.
November 11, 2019
Western Australia's Silo Art Trail
Michael Osborne explores the Public Silo Trail in WA
Australian’s are amazing when it comes to creativity, in particular when times are tough in the bush. One only has to see some of the great inventions our forebears created to help them survive our climate.
As we are aware, our country is enduring one of the worst drought and dry spell for many a year. The people on the land are suffering and are looking at tourism dollars to earn some money to see them over until the next wet.
So along comes FORM.
FORM is an independent, non-profit cultural organisation that develops and advocates for excellence in creativity and artistic practice in Western Australia.
They come up with a concept - The Public Silo Trail – which is a partnership between FORM and Co-operative Bulk Handling Group (CBH Group).
One can imagine the conversation, ‘Look, we have all these giant white grain silos, so why don’t we get together with the local communities and check-out some artists and get a few murals painted on them.’ Might look pretty good!
The end result a 1,000km self-drive art trail that you can start in Perth, and head east and travel through Northam – Merredin – Ravensthorpe - Newdegate – Pingrup – Katanning – and down south to Albany.
One of the largest outdoor art galleries in the world.
At Northam we were taken to the Bilya Koort Boodja Aboriginal Centre. This is the best audio/visual presentation on indigenous people I have ever seen. I kept walking back and rechecking the exhibits as there was so much to try and absorb in the short period we had.
https://www.bilyakoortboodja.com/
There are other attractions along the way, including a Yabby farm, at Kukerin where local yabbies are readied for transporting to the finest restaurants in Australian and around the world
http://www.cambinatayabbies.com.au/home.html
At Newdegate you must visit the Hainsworth Museum, originally a corner store and tea room built in 1933 and now restored by the locals to a time-warp history piece.
https://www.australiasgoldenoutback.com/business/attractions/hainsworth-museum
Near Lake Grace we enjoyed a wine tasting at Walkers Hill Vineyard. A Chardonnay very dry and crisp with fruit tones. Their Shiraz is big and peppery. But the pick for me was their Drought Rose, plenty of fruit and a little tingle on the tongue.
https://www.walkershillvineyard.com.au/
On to Denmark. Next on our journey was Singlefile Wines, apparently named after the resident geese who would parade around the lake in s single file!
They gather fruit from across The Great Southern and create many award winning wines, including a very special Chardonnay. http://www.singlefilewines.com/
Heading west along the cost we arrive at Walpole. This area is highly rated as a tourist destination, with so much to see and do.
We opted for a very special dinner cruise around the lake.
VERY Special: Why? Well in more than 45-years of travel, I have seen countless tour guides and presenters, but here we had Gary Muir! This man is a living legend; I have never experienced anyone with so much passion for his area. He had our group almost rolling around the deck with his comments and antics. I could fill this whole article with asides from his routine. But to do him and this wonderful lake and cruise justice you must not miss his daily cruise.
http://www.wowwilderness.com.au/
A short drive has us at The Valley of the Giants at Tingledale.
See giant ancient trees, learn about nature and then take the aerial adventure – The Tree Top Walk – A wheel chair accessible walk that slopes into the canopy of the Walpole-Nornalup National Park and Walpole Wilderness, offering spectacular views over densely forested hills. Descending to the boardwalks below to explore the Ancient Empire Walk, you’ll enter a grove of towering veteran tingle trees.
https://www.valleyofthegiants.com.au/listing/tree-top-walk /
All of the towns along the trail have their own uniqueness and you will find that the locals are fully supportive of the visiting travellers, many of them arriving with caravans and others in campervans.
Most towns have a free parking area with facilities for the visitors to overnight and freshen up. Also caravan parks, motels and hotels of good to high-end levels.
We tried a variety of accommodation – from farm stay style at Mary Farm Cottages – which were modern fully equipped cottages in a beautiful setting. http://marysfarmcottages.com.au/
At Katanning we were spoilt with staying at the Premier Mill Hotel, which because of its uniqueness really has to be seen and experienced. A former flour mill that was almost due to be demolished has been restored to an intriguing perfection by Nigel Oakey. https://premiermillhotel.com/##home
Heading then To Walpole we Glamped at the Coalmine Caravan Park. Modern fully contained tents which although compact, have everything you would need for an overnighted of a week or two. During the night there was a heavy downpour and the sound of the rain on the canvas was the best sleeping tonic. https://www.coalminebeach.com.au/
Last on our adventure was Albany, where the grain is sent to sea. It is also the home of the National Anzac Centre honouring the memory of our incredible Anzac’s as over 41,000 departed from Albany’s harbour, the last time most ever laid eyes on their home country.
https://www.nationalanzaccentre.com.au/#
Food and Beverage. One thing I did see often was the sign “The Best Coffee in Town” and I will have to admit all we tried were excellent.
Food wise we found that many locals have formed a type of co-op to source fresh produce which they then created some extremely delicious presentations, in quaint country restaurants.
www.publicsilotrail.com
www.australiasgoldenoutback.com
https://www.australiassouthwest.com/
Words and images: Michael Osborne
Feature supplied by: www.wtfmedia.com.au
November 02, 2019
Kimberley Cruising On Wandjina Time
#expeditioncruising
Time moves so slowly in the Kimberley, it might as well stand still. Adventure cruiser, Roderick Eime, faces off with the ancient Wandjina.
Their mouthless faces stare out from the rock ceiling, eyes wide and all-seeing. These are the Wandjina, invisible to mere mortals. The Kimberley of Australia’s North West is their realm and they rule supreme, governing the rain and the life-giving regeneration that follows.
We’re here in the famous cave at Raft Point, possibly the best known of all Wandjina rock art sites in the Kimberley. Their Dreamtime stories are kept alive by local indigenous people like the Mowanjum people from nearby Derby. Their Dreaming stories tell of the first Wandjina, called Idjair, who lives in the Milky Way and is the father of all the Wandjinas who went on to create the Earth.

“The Wandjinas gave the language, the culture and the laws of the country,” says Mowanjum artist Leah Umbagai, “They told us how we have to work the country and how we have to live. So all the laws, language and traditions we got from the Wandjinas. This is a very powerful person or spirit being that we believe in. We are here because of the Wandjinas.”
The oldest Wandjina art was created perhaps 4000 years ago. It is traditionally repainted every few years because the dyes and ochres would otherwise fade and deteriorate. Older still are the Gwion Gwion paintings, now so ancient they are fused in the rock itself and impossible to date by conventional methods. Researchers are confident they are at least 20,000 years old, probably older.
Coming face-to-face with these prehistoric murals is a humbling experience. All of a sudden you realise how fleeting your existence is and how little the Earth cares about your dreams and aspirations.
Even though we may be brief and transient visitors to this realm, it doesn’t stop us marvelling at the grandeur of the creations that surround us here in the Kimberley. The majesty of King George Falls in full flight ranks along with Victoria Falls and Niagara in terms of sheer beauty, if not water volume. The better cruise operators will bring their tenders so close that your whole body will shudder as the cascade plummets 80 metres into the river, enveloping you in a dense, misty spray.
The best way to access these remote wonders is by small ship and expedition cruising has found a solid niche in the Kimberley with more and more vessels plying these remote waters thanks to the accelerating tourism interest in the region. However, with the notorious six-metre tides, patchy charts and tricky currents, local experience comes into its own. This, coupled with the preference to smaller vessels, makes the Kimberley a premium destination for adventure cruise travellers.
One of the acknowledged preeminent operators, is the multi-award-winning True North Adventure Cruises who have seen more than 30 years of continuous operation in the region.
“We are very different to a big ship holiday,” said owner and founder, Craig Howson OAM, “Our itineraries are always activity-based and much more suited to travellers who are looking for a holiday that is also an enriching experience.”
Their luxury expedition vessel, True North, carries just 36 guests in superlative ‘barefoot comfort’, and lavishes guests with such activities as heli-fishing and flightseeing with their onboard jet helicopter, tender exploration into remote tributaries and ecological enrichment thanks to onboard scientists like Dr Andy Lewis, a passionate marine biologist and expedition leader.
For those looking for simpler relaxation, Craig’s team offers unsurpassed fishing in the many tributaries throughout the Kimberley where dedicated anglers can land snapper, mullet, queenfish, mangrove jack or even the legendary barramundi. If you can’t catch a fish in the Kimberley, then you really should give it up.
The Kimberley cruise season is typically between March and September as the weather transitions from wet to dry. Early season has the best waterfalls, while later is best for fishing. The choice is yours, because the Wandjina will be doing their thing regardless, just as they have done since the dawn of time.
More: www.truenorth.com.au
Time moves so slowly in the Kimberley, it might as well stand still. Adventure cruiser, Roderick Eime, faces off with the ancient Wandjina.
Their mouthless faces stare out from the rock ceiling, eyes wide and all-seeing. These are the Wandjina, invisible to mere mortals. The Kimberley of Australia’s North West is their realm and they rule supreme, governing the rain and the life-giving regeneration that follows.
We’re here in the famous cave at Raft Point, possibly the best known of all Wandjina rock art sites in the Kimberley. Their Dreamtime stories are kept alive by local indigenous people like the Mowanjum people from nearby Derby. Their Dreaming stories tell of the first Wandjina, called Idjair, who lives in the Milky Way and is the father of all the Wandjinas who went on to create the Earth.

“The Wandjinas gave the language, the culture and the laws of the country,” says Mowanjum artist Leah Umbagai, “They told us how we have to work the country and how we have to live. So all the laws, language and traditions we got from the Wandjinas. This is a very powerful person or spirit being that we believe in. We are here because of the Wandjinas.”
The oldest Wandjina art was created perhaps 4000 years ago. It is traditionally repainted every few years because the dyes and ochres would otherwise fade and deteriorate. Older still are the Gwion Gwion paintings, now so ancient they are fused in the rock itself and impossible to date by conventional methods. Researchers are confident they are at least 20,000 years old, probably older.
Coming face-to-face with these prehistoric murals is a humbling experience. All of a sudden you realise how fleeting your existence is and how little the Earth cares about your dreams and aspirations.
Even though we may be brief and transient visitors to this realm, it doesn’t stop us marvelling at the grandeur of the creations that surround us here in the Kimberley. The majesty of King George Falls in full flight ranks along with Victoria Falls and Niagara in terms of sheer beauty, if not water volume. The better cruise operators will bring their tenders so close that your whole body will shudder as the cascade plummets 80 metres into the river, enveloping you in a dense, misty spray.
The best way to access these remote wonders is by small ship and expedition cruising has found a solid niche in the Kimberley with more and more vessels plying these remote waters thanks to the accelerating tourism interest in the region. However, with the notorious six-metre tides, patchy charts and tricky currents, local experience comes into its own. This, coupled with the preference to smaller vessels, makes the Kimberley a premium destination for adventure cruise travellers.
One of the acknowledged preeminent operators, is the multi-award-winning True North Adventure Cruises who have seen more than 30 years of continuous operation in the region.
“We are very different to a big ship holiday,” said owner and founder, Craig Howson OAM, “Our itineraries are always activity-based and much more suited to travellers who are looking for a holiday that is also an enriching experience.”
Their luxury expedition vessel, True North, carries just 36 guests in superlative ‘barefoot comfort’, and lavishes guests with such activities as heli-fishing and flightseeing with their onboard jet helicopter, tender exploration into remote tributaries and ecological enrichment thanks to onboard scientists like Dr Andy Lewis, a passionate marine biologist and expedition leader.
For those looking for simpler relaxation, Craig’s team offers unsurpassed fishing in the many tributaries throughout the Kimberley where dedicated anglers can land snapper, mullet, queenfish, mangrove jack or even the legendary barramundi. If you can’t catch a fish in the Kimberley, then you really should give it up.
The Kimberley cruise season is typically between March and September as the weather transitions from wet to dry. Early season has the best waterfalls, while later is best for fishing. The choice is yours, because the Wandjina will be doing their thing regardless, just as they have done since the dawn of time.
More: www.truenorth.com.au
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