Twenty-four hours in the Emerald City keeps Ros Freeman wide awake.
It’s easy to be sleepless in Seattle. There’s so much to do in this fair city, stunningly situated between mountains, forests and water. The city is only a short flight from Alaska, which is why I’m here . . . but only for 24 hours.
There are many transport options in Seattle, and being a public transport enthusiast, I was excited to sample a few. It was an easy exit from the airport via the Link Light Rail. At the next station my friend awaited me. I’d met John and Karen in the Balkans about ten years ago. They’d invited me to stay in lovely Bellevue, a neighbouring city of Seattle.
| Seattle skyline with Mount Rainier (Wikimedia) |
Aptly named, Bellevue has beautiful views across to Seattle. The hilly city was awash with colour, rhododendrons, hydrangeas and dahlias. John invited me to ‘scale’ one of Bellevue’s peaks. I puffed and panted, heaving myself up the five, no maybe six, steps to ‘Somerset Spire’. John, I discover, is a mountaineer. He’s climbed 3500 of Washington State’s highest peaks. Being the first to summit a number of peaks, he’s had the honour of naming them. ‘One-eyed bull’ and ‘dog with the buried bone’ to name a few. It’s easy to recognise one of Karen’s passions. Her splendiferous garden is filled with blooms of a similar hue; it’s a purple version of Sissinghurst.
| Space Needle, or just another UFO? |
Seattle was named after Chief Seattle, who was a leader of his peoples. He welcomed the white settlers, helping them to establish a community. Seattle wasn’t originally called Seattle. When the first white settlers arrived in 1851, they named it ‘New York’. Not long after they changed it to Seattle, as a gesture of respect for the great man.
The city could well have been named ‘Phoenix’, as much of it was razed in 1889 in The Great Seattle Fire. The fire engulfed 100 acres, including the waterfront and business districts. Businesses rebuilt exactly where they’d been originally located, however the streets were elevated 22 feet.
| Museum of Pop meets monorail |
Built in 1962 as part of the World’s Fair, Seattle’s monorail remains an integral part of the city. It travels between downtown and the Seattle Center, passing through Frank Gehry’s funky Museum of Pop Culture, and stopping at Seattle’s landmark Space Needle. This flying-saucer-shaped structure was the focus of the 1962 World’s Fair, and most appropriately so. Seattleites report more UFOs than anywhere else in the U.S.
In the shadow of the Space Needle is Chihuly Garden and Glass Museum. Dale Chihuly bewitches and bewilders, turning sand into sparkling glass creations. His imagination knows no bounds. He is simply, a glass magician.
| Fish tossing, popular in Seattle |
Seattle’s Central Waterfront was buzzing. An audience gathered at Pike’s Place fish market. Can fish fly? It’s traditional for fishmongers to toss fish purchased by customers before wrapping it. Gives a new meaning to the ‘catch of the day’. Nearby is another weird tradition. It’s the Gum Wall. It began when patrons would dispense with their chewing gum before going to the theatre. The theatre is long gone, but the Gum Wall, in all its icky sticky glory, remains.
The original Starbucks is located at Pike’s Place. Seattle has many claims to fame; the origins of Microsoft, Amazon, Boeing, Cosco and Expedia. Famous Seattleites include Bill & Melinda Gates, Jimi Hendrix, Kurt Cobain and martial artist Bruce Lee. There must be something in the air in this the Emerald City. Rain. Another of the city’s monikers is ‘the rainy city’. I was fortunate though, no rain during my twenty-four hours.
It’s debatable where Seattle’s best views are from. John, being a mountaineer, would say Mount Rainier. The next best location is the Great Wheel by the harbour. It affords views of the city, the harbour and the distant mountains. Ferries traverse the harbour, some going to nearby Bainbridge Island, some to Vancouver. Normally the port is very busy; however, due to the recent tariffs there’s little action there.
| Chihuly's crystal masterpiece |
My twenty-four hours is up. I loved this city, its vibrancy, vitality and variety. The mountains, forests and water provide a beautiful formula, and the classic architecture, Art Deco buildings and cutting-edge modernism all harmonise. As my plane ascends and I enjoy my final glimpse of Seattle, I pop a sleeping tablet; farewell, Seattle, sleepless no more.
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Ros travelled with
Disguised as a mild-mannered corporate employee, Ros lives a secret life as a world traveller and adventurer amassing a count of more than 150 UN-recognised countries. |
Ros Freeman travelled independently at her own expense but would not go anywhere unless Kirsty at Flight Centre Eastgardens booked her flights.
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