Milwaukee: More than beer and bikes

Look at USA’s smaller cities for a more relaxing experience.

Words and pictures: Roderick Eime

If I were to ask you what you know about Milwaukee, Wisconsin, chances are you may recall the hit 1970s sitcom, ‘Laverne & Shirley’. Either that or you’re a bike nerd and know Milwaukee as the birthplace of the iconic US motorcycle brand, Harley-Davidson.

Christ’s Hospital School's uniform near 500-year tradition

David Ellis

THERE'S a school in England that to maintain traditions dating back to when it began caring for children of the "fatherless and poor" over 460 years ago, still outfits its pupils today in the uniforms of all those years back.

And it still provides a free education to children of families in need, having been founded at the instigation of a young King Edward VI after listening to an impassioned sermon about those "fatherless and poor" delivered by the Bishop of London in early 1552.

Edward rallied around him prominent church and business leaders and wealthier private citizens, and in November of 1552 declared open Christ's Hospital School in empty State buildings he gave in Newgate Street London.

Within a year over 500 pupils had enrolled, and Edward himself as Patron signed a Royal Charter the following year giving the school royal recognition and assistance.

Sadly, he was to die of tuberculosis just eleven days later, never to see all the good he was to help create, and in 1666 most of the school's buildings were destroyed in The Great Fire of London, but no lives were lost.

Christ's Hospital School today is located near Horsham 70km south of London, and has a near-900 boarding and day pupils, with a good proportion attending on bursaries and scholarships provided by wealthy modern-day donors to cover the costs of their education, board, travel, uniforms, sportswear, and even weekly pocket money.

By contrast, for parents able to pay for their children to board at the school it costs around the equivalent of AU$20,000 per child for each of the three annual terms, and for day pupils up to AU$13,500 per term.

And the school uniform still consists of a long blue coat, matching knee breeches for boys and skirts for girls, yellow socks, and a white neck band from the Tudor era all those years ago.

[] ENGLAND'S Christ's Hospital School pupils have worn the same Tudor-era uniform for over 460 years. (Christ's Hospital School)

[] PUPILS march to lunch in the school's dining hall. (Christ's Hospital School)

Norway: To the top of the world

Len Rutledge heads about as far North as you can go.

Norway is a big country. Oslo, the capital is in the south. Alta, where we are heading is over 1700 kilometres to the north. Fortunately, there is a direct flight. At the airport, we rent a car and head out to explore an area that is radically different to anything in Australia.

Alta

People have lived here for more than 10,000 years. The major site of interest is the Alta Museum. There is an excellent indoor exhibition explaining the local rock art and giving a broader introduction to Finnmark's prehistory. The exhibition also teaches us that in the Sámi (Laplander) religion, nature was regarded as possessing a soul and being alive.

Alta Museum is linked by a boardwalk to a UNESCO World Heritage Rock Carving site where there is a series of carvings from up to 7,000 years ago. These are extensive and took an hour to enjoy. Approximately 3,000 figures have been found here making it one of the largest collections in Europe.

The modern Northern Lights Cathedral is both a church and a northern lights attraction. The nearby central square is traffic-free and good for a short wander. There are tours to the 300-metre-deep Sautso-Alta Canyon, and to mountain bike paths near the Alta River.

Experience the Sámi culture

The bleak country south and east of Alta is the home of the indigenous Nordic people, Sámi reindeer-herders. Frankly, it is only the Sámi culture that is of great interest here and this can be depressingly difficult to see in the middle of summer when many Sámi have moved to the coastal pastures. The best time to visit is during the Easter festival when there are concerts, church services, and traditional sports.

Kautokeino is a permanent town and the principal winter camp of the Sámi people but it is a somewhat desolate place strung out along the highway. A couple of kilometres south of town is Juhis Silver Gallery, an amazing attraction with a workshop and a wonderful display area. In the centre of a major city, this would be a sensation, here in the wilderness it is mind-blowing. The items being produced here are mainly sold in the exclusive boutiques of Europe and North America.

Karasjok is the capital of the Sámi and is more organized than Kautokeino. It is only 18 km from the Finnish border and here we find the Sámi parliament and several museums and attractions. The Sami Artists Centre is an art gallery devoted to Sami painters. Don't miss it.

Hammerfest

We travel further north through the treeless and barren landscape to Hammerfest on the shore of rugged Kvaloya Island. This is the world's northern-most substantial town and amazingly, it was the first place in Europe with electric street lighting.

The town was totally leveled during World War II and the interesting Reconstruction Museum details the dramatic events including the forced evacuation of the population, the town burning to the ground, and the subsequent reconstruction.

You don't have to go far to see roaming reindeer herds. We encountered one at the entrance to a substantial tunnel on the main road not far from town. If boating is your thing, there are trips to several little fishing villages along the rugged coast.

North Cape

North Cape/Nordkapp is touted as the most northern point of continental Europe. Near North Cape, there are several alternatives. Skarsvag, the nearest fishing village, has boat trips, fishing, bird-watching, and whale safaris. Cycle and kayak rental are also available. In the same area, the Church Gate rock formation offers excellent views of North Cape, the Horn, and the midnight sun.

North Cape has been a visitor attraction for several hundred years. You can only enter this area after paying a fairly hefty fee but we found it worthwhile. Outside you can see the King Oscar Monument which was built in 1873 to mark the outermost limit of the Norway-Sweden union. The Globe monument erected in 1977 has become the symbol of the North Cape and is a popular photographic spot.

North Cape Hall is a large tourist center with a host of facilities including a film on a wrap-around screen about the four seasons. The Tunnel has exhibitions about the North Cape's long history as a tourist destination and this leads to St Johannes Chapel which is the world's northernmost ecumenical chapel.

Nearby is a Thailand Museum because this spot was visited by King Chulalongkorn more than 100 years ago. Finally, we reach the Cave of Light which is a new attraction providing a journey through the seasons by way of sound and light.

It is still 530 kilometres to Kirkenes near the border with Russia. This was bombed more often than any place in Europe except Malta during World War II. This area is so remote from Oslo that Finland and Russia have had more influence on the area than Norway at various times. You see this in the church architecture and even in some of the language.

www.LenRutledge.com
Len is the author of Experience Norway 2018 available as an ebook or paperback from http://www.amazon.com/dp/B078GL6T29

Words: Len Rutledge  Images: Phensri Rutledge

Feature supplied by: www.wtfmedia.com.au

1.     Alta Rock Art
2.     Juhis Siver Gallery at Kautokeiro
3.     North Cape Globe Monument
4.     Sami Turf House at Karasjock
5.     Wandering reindeer by road tunnel Hammerfest

Burt Reynolds in Secret Milwaukee Cover-Up

#VisitMilwaukee

A restaurant right out of James Bond 

David Ellis

THERE'S a restaurant and bar in America's Milwaukee whose ladies' room features a large picture of a reclining and starkly naked Burt Reynolds, with no more than a small red cardboard-cut-out heart over his, ah, more personal parts.

Peru: Condors and canyons in the Colca Valley

Jennifer Doherty soon finds that Peru's Colca Valley has one of the most spectacular landscapes on earth and combined with the world's deepest canyon at nearby Cotahuasi, the world's largest flying birds, the condors and numerous pre-Inca ruins it makes a wonderful adventure playground for visitors to the region.

The Colca Lodge & Hot Springs is without doubt the best place to base yourself for a few days to enjoy the region. From here you can go trekking in the canyon, visit the Uyo Uyo pre-Inca ruins only a short hike from the hotel and visit the Cruz del Condor (the Cross of the Condor) to see these amazing birds up close and personal.

Located at an altitude of 3250 metres above sea level, and two-and-a-half hour's drive from the city of Arequipa, the hotel is built on the banks of the Colca River and is surrounded by hundreds of pre-Inca agricultural terraces that have been declared a Peruvian national heritage.

The design of the hotel is inspired by the old pre-Inca structures built of earth, stone and straw creating a magical environment connecting the rooms to the gardens which in turn blend into the adjacent fields, without the division of walls and hedges giving guests full contact with the natural wonders of the area.

Colca Lodge, set in such beautiful natural surroundings has four thermal hot springs set on the river's edge which have different temperatures and contain water rich in minerals that are beneficial to health and offer great relaxation at the end of a day's hiking in the region.

For many the highlight of a visit to the Colca Valley is to view the condors flying on the thermals rising from the canyon floor, swooping down over the Cruz del Condor (Cross of the Condor) as if they are performing for the hundreds of people who come here daily to catch sight of these mighty birds.  The best time to see the birds is early morning or late afternoon in the dry season, as the condors are not fond of rainy days.  The morning our group visited the site I counted up to fourteen birds zooming in and out allowing wonderful photo opportunities.

There is so much history in the valley with pre-Inca ruins located all over the valley.  There are many villages to visit in the valley as well - Chivay, Yanque, Pinchollo and Cabanaconde to name a few. The 18th-century colonial church in Yanque is stunning and the Museo Yanque has a university run cultural museum with displays on traditional cultural life.

The two ethnic groups that originally occupied the valley are the Cabanas and the Collagua.  Today they still wear distinctively shaped hats and intricate embroidered traditional clothing according to their ancestors.

One of the delights of travelling in Peru is meeting face to face with the native wildlife.  There are so many opportunities to meet the very cute llamas, alpacas and vicunas which are native to South America.  Staying at Colca Lodge gives you the opportunity to enjoy a close-up experience at their very own Alpacas Farm.

Based on their wide experience with alpaca (as part of the Grupo Inca), Colca Lodge has created a particular group of alpacas and llamas.  The animals, of all colours and breeds come from the Pacomarca (Puno) experimental centre for genetic improvement where the world's most advanced studies in alpacas are carried out.  A group of "Suri" alpacas are on show at Colca Lodge, these are known as "Wasi" or magic alpacas distinguished by their beautiful long hair, the result of years of special care.

It's a spectacular drive from Arequipa past El Misti, the volcano that hovers over Arequipa city, then travelling through national reserve where you can spot many llama and alpacas living in the wild.  On past the reserve you travel through the bleak altiplano (on the day we travelled it was snowing) reaching the highest point of 4,800 meters from where the snowcapped Nevado Ampato can be seen.  From there you drop spectacularly down into the Colca Canyon as the road switchbacks down to the rural village of Chivay.

There could be no better place to explore the real Peru, meet the local farmers and villagers, enjoy some outdoor adventures and explore Peruvian culture and traditions than in the Colca Valley.  Combined with a stay at the Colca Lodge and Hot Springs with its excellent accommodation and facilities you can be sure of a truly wonderful adventure.

Colca Lodge & Hotsprings:  https://colca-lodge.com/en/

Words and images: Jennifer Doherty

Feature supplied by: www.wtfmedia.com.au

1. Colca Lodge
2. Inca Ruin
3. Alpacas Colca Lodge
4. Colca Lodge Hot Springs
5. Colca Valley
6. Colonial Church Chivay
7. Cruz del Condor

The splendour and variety of India’s Golden Triangle

...

Taj Mahal

India is a country of enormous contrasts where poverty sits beside wealth, beauty intermingles with filth, and structure and chaos compete for supremacy. It will dazzle all your senses and cause you heart-ache at the same time.

It can be challenging and charming, overwhelming and stunningly beautiful. The eager friendliness of the people is endearing, and the food is unforgettable but there is likely to be unexpected glitches no matter how much you plan.

India is a large country and the one with the second largest population in the world. It really is many countries all rolled into one. If you lay a map of India over a map of Europe you will see that it covers the area from Scandinavia to North Africa and from Spain to Russia. It is one of the world's oldest living civilizations yet the present nation-state is just over 70 years old.

Just like Australia, it is difficult to see the whole country in one visit. That is why my wife and I restricted ourselves to a part of north-west India, known better as the Extended Golden Triangle, on our recent visit. There were many highlights.

Delhi, India's capital, is dotted with mosques, forts, and monuments left over from the Mughal rulers that once occupied the city but there are also some more modern temples and other buildings. The contrast between rambling Old Delhi and well planned New Delhi is immense, and it's interesting to spend time exploring both.

Udaipur, in Rajasthan, is sometimes called the most romantic city in India because of its famed lakes and palaces. The City Palace complex, the architecturally splendid Bagore Ki Haveli, and Lake Pichola with its beautiful Lake Palace Hotel are just some of the 'must-see' sights. We loved it.

Jodhpur is famous for its blue buildings and for the unusual pants worn by a polo team when visiting England in 1897. The impregnable Mehrangarh Fort, which rises above the city, is one of the largest forts in India.

Also here is the magnificent Umaid Bhawan Palace, one of the last great palaces to be built in India. The royal family of Jodhpur still occupies a section of it but most has been converted into a luxury hotel. Nearby Mandore was the capital of the Marwar region before Jodhpur was founded.

Pushkar is a sleepy little holy town that attracts a lot of backpackers and hippie types and is one of the most visited pilgrimage places in India. Surrounding by hills on three sides, Pushkar abounds in temples and is centred on the lake which has mythological importance.

Pushkar Camel Fair, Rajasthan's most famous festival, is held here late October or early November depending on the moon and it attracts 200,000 visitors from around the world.

India's desert capital of Jaipur, known as the Pink City because of the pink walls and buildings of the old city, lures visitors with its stunning ancient palaces and forts. It is an excellent place to shop for gemstones, silver jewellery, bangles, clothes, blue pottery, and textiles.

Nearby Amber Fort is set on a hill top overlooking Maota Lake and it is accessed on the back of elephants. It was the original home of Rajput royalty until Jaipur city was constructed and it is now a much-enjoyed attraction.

"I am sitting in front of the Taj Mahal absorbing the magic of the world's most beautiful building. India's crowds, chaos and poverty are temporarily relegated to the back of my mind as I let this piece of paradise into my soul". - Len Rutledge

There are quite a few worthwhile places to visit in Agra and around, apart from India's most famous monument -- the Tāj Mahal. The many interesting remnants of the Mughal era will surprise you and the crazy, congested bazaars of the Old City will fascinate you.

Don't miss a visit to majestic Agra Fort, Mehtab Bagh known as the Moonlight Garden, and the tomb of Itimād-ud-Daula or 'Little Tāj'.

Indian food is widely perceived as being predominantly vegetarian but in fact less than half of the Indian population is vegetarian. In the past, the abstinence from meat eating has often been an economic consideration because many people could not afford meat.

As India improves economically, the consumption of meat is increasing and the variety of cuisines available to the visitor has sky-rocketed. We were delighted with much of the local food and with the people who cooked and served it.

The Golden Triangle region has accommodation costing from $18,000 (no this is not a misprint) to $2 per night. Naturally the quality and experience varies widely. We generally used economical 3-star accommodation and were happy wherever we went.

India has some of the best and most expensive hotel rooms in the world and the facilities and service are virtually unmatched anywhere. On a couple of nights we lived like royalty at reasonable cost in restored palaces that are now hotels. That experience will long be remembered.


Words: Len Rutledge Pictures: Phensri Rutledge

www.LenRutledge.com

Len is the author of Experience India's Golden Triangle 2018 available as an ebook or paperback from http://www.amazon.com/dp/B078H9VPJB

Feature supplied by: www.wtfmedia.com.au

Images

1. Agra Taj Mahal
2. Jaipur Hawa Mahal
3. New Delhi Qutb Minar
4. Puskar
5. Udipur Lake and City

Walking the Dog in Switzerland

#Switzerland

International travel expert, John Newton braved the icy conditions up on the Saint Bernard Pass to catch up with some friendly giants for a walk in the Swiss Alps. He was relieved to swap the mountains for level ground where he mingled with younger, mischievous furry friends. All 10 of them.

It's that time of year again when locals and tourists alike get the chance to take a walk on the wild side with the Swiss national dog, some of which have achieved worldwide fame as movie stars, starred in a host of advertisements and featured on postage stamps.

Every weekend from the end of December until the end of February, the Barry Foundation – based in Martigny, Switzerland - organises leisurely walks accompanied by Saint Bernard dogs in the mountain village of Champex-Lac.

The 90-minute walks take dog lovers around the idyllic, snow-covered alpine lake, with participants taking it in turns to hold the Saint Bernard's on a lead, while youngsters can enjoy a ride in a sledge pulled by the dogs.

"The walks are beautiful. Our Saint Bernard's love going out in the snow and coming into contact with the visitors," said animal keeper, Leah Fluckiger. "The participants sense that too. And what's more, the walks lead through the spectacular scenery of the snowy alpine plateau."

Each walk in Champex-Lac is accompanied by three Saint Bernard's. One of the heavyweight dogs pulls a specially-designed sledge for children under the age of 10 to ride on.

"As long ago as in historical times, the Saint Bernard's used to pull carts. This remains a very suitable activity for the dogs, even today," said Manuel Gaillard, who is in charge of the dogs. "We have adapted the work of pulling the dogs a little, and replaced the traditional carts with sledges."

Ideally, the walk should be combined with a visit to the Saint Bernard museum, which is the only one of its kind in Switzerland and tells the story of the dogs, the Great Saint Bernard Pass and hospice. "The museum in Martigny is open every day. Visitors can find out more about the history of the hospice dogs and meet other dogs from our breeding kennels," said Rudolph Thomann, managing director the Barry Foundation which, as owner of the breeding kennels, is responsible for the continued management of the 300-year-old breed and the preservation of the special type of hospice Saint Bernard dog.

The Barry Foundation is named after the legendary Barry, who lived at the hospice in 1800 until 1812 and is considered the most famous of all the dogs who ever provided rescue services on the Great Saint Bernard Pass. He saved the lives of more than 40 people.

The many legends surrounding his name greatly contributed to the Saint Bernard's reputation. As a result, there is always a dog named Barry at the hospice, which was founded by monks in the 11th century as a refuge for travellers and pilgrims on the 2469-metre high Great Saint Bernard Pass – for centuries an important traffic route between the economic centres of northern Italy and North West Europe – and for pilgrims on their Via Francigena route to Rome.

Large mountain dogs have been kept at the hospice since the mid-17th century to guard and protect those staying there. The Saint Bernard's were rapidly adopted as companion dogs and above all as rescue dogs for travellers who lost their way in the snow and mist. The dogs from the Great Saint Bernard Pass saved the lives of many people, averting countless deaths in the snow. The reputation of the Saint Bernard's (then called 'Barry dogs') grew throughout Europe in the 19th century – thanks to chronicles published in many languages and to reports passed on by word of mouth by the soldiers who had crossed the pass with Napoleon Bonaparte in 1800. The legendary Barry became the archetype of the rescue dog.

Today, Saint Bernard's no longer play a key role in mountain rescues. Helicopters and faster, smaller dogs get to the accident scene much quicker.

Contact them direct for special offers and discounted passes. Go to: www.champex.ch or email – champexlac@saint-bernard.ch

In Switzerland, the writer received a good licking at the Saint Bernard Museum and Hospice. After travelling to Martigny by train on a Eurail pass provided by Rail Plus, Australasia's leading international rail specialist. For more information on European train journeys, itineraries and pricing, go to www.railplus  or call (In Australia)  1300 555 003.

Story and images: John Newton

Feature supplied by: www.wtfmedia.com.au

Images

1. Author, John Newton finds a favourite
2. I want to lead, no I do, no I do
3. Please throw the ball for me
4. Who wants to be rescued
5. Please take my photo
6. Running rings around
7. Yes, we are twins

Struth! Shiver me timbers, it's the coldest place on Earth

THINK THAT'S COLD – TRY LIVING HERE

David Ellis

IF you're already shuddering at the prospects of winter just around the corner, spare a thought for the 500 folk who live in the tiny village of Oymyakon in Russian Siberia – in winter up there, the mercury drops to a teeth-chattering minus 50C or colder.

So cold that saliva in peoples' mouths can freeze into needles that prick their lips, where car engines are left running outside owner's homes all night so they won't freeze and need to be thawed with a blow-torch to start next morning, and where school is cancelled only when the temperature falls below -55C.

And where when somebody dies, a bonfire has to be lit over their potential burial-site to thaw the ground so that the grave-diggers can do their job.

Oymyakon is officially the coldest permanently-inhabited place on earth, with its coldest day ever a body-numbing -67C… consider that by comparison, the inside of your refrigerator averages 4C and your freezer a mere -20C.

Visitors to Oymyakon are rewarded with complimentary "Pole of Cold" certificates from the town's official Guardian of the Cold and last January a brand new electronic thermometer installed in a public square as a tourist attraction, shattered when the temperature dropped to -62C.

The little 500-person village, that's 6.5hrs flying time from Moscow, was founded next to a thermal spring by reindeer herders who watered their animals there in the 1920s and '30s; today it has a small but growing tourism industry with attractions including reindeer tracking, ice fishing, playing in the thermal springs and experiencing that bizarre winter cold.

And while winter days get a mere three hours of daylight, in summer there's 21 hours daily and temperatures can reach a very warm 30C. For more information drop their tourist office a line on  contact@visityakutia.com


[] REINDEER that were hunted for their meat and fur in Oymyakon's early history, are now a favourite with tourists and used in hunting-down good photo opportunities. (Image: Oymyakon Tourism)

[] IN Oymyakon in Russian Siberia, if you leave your car outside overnight without keeping the engine running, here's what you'll wake up to next morning. (Image: Oymyakon Tourism)