What to do with three spare days in between my Afghanistan trip and my Iraq trip? Solution: go to Kuwait.
My Kuwaiti hotel room is perfect. I love it! It’s so perfect I don’t want to leave it. What a joy to inhabit such a beautifully designed space. It’s small and perfectly formed, affording the essential creature comforts plus a splash of pizzaz. I’m a happy camper as I wallow in my comfy bed, appreciating the aesthetics, the clever lighting, and the picture-window view of Kuwait City. That the air-conditioning is set to a perfect 22C, and the outside temperature is 40C, is another reason to stay indoors.
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| Scene in the souq |
Kuwait City awaited however, and my driver for the day was Walid. He was the kind of man prone to leg-tapping restlessness, someone who couldn’t do just one thing. While driving, he was texting, or on the ‘phone, organising new recruits for his various business ventures. Can I smoke? He asked, but it wasn’t so much a question, more a statement. Apple-scented vape fumes filled the car. Occasionally he’d wind down the window and give fellow drivers a blast in Arabic. Less occasionally he’d remember to deliver his spiel on Kuwait. We were joined by passenger Alexis, a stylish Italian gentleman who lives in Soussa, on Tunisia’s stunning Mediterranean coast.
Only one-third of Kuwait’s population is Kuwaiti. The remainder are ex-pats, primarily from India, Egypt and Bangladesh. More than 100 nationalities are represented in this tiny country. Walid was Egyptian. Kuwait’s population is five million, remarkable when you consider it is only 18,000 square kilometres, one third the area of Tasmania, and is 90% desert. It comprises nine islands, plus one that is now connected to the mainland.
The star feature of Kuwait City is the Towers. It’s appropriate that water storage towers would be the main feature in a desert city. They were built in the 70s by a Danish female architect as part of the water system. Kuwait relies on desalinated water, the first country to do so. Alexis and I caught the elevator to the viewing platform, taking in the hazy city view.
Our next stop was the Fish Markets. A pleasant building lined with stalls filled with fish. It was tempting to buy that flathead offered by the fish monger with the wide smile, however I graciously declined. The fish markets were popular with the cats. There are many cats in Kuwait, as in most Islamic countries. The prophet Mohammed liked cats. Next to the Fish Markets there was a fleet of dhows. For centuries the design of these traditional sailing boats hasn’t changed, boat-building skills being handed down from generation to generation.
We passed Dasman Palace. In 1990, at the beginning of the Gulf War, the Palace was attacked by Iraqi forces. The intention was to capture the Emir, however he’d already fled to Saudi Arabia. His younger brother was killed. Iraq considers Kuwait a part of Iraq. During the Iran-Iraq war 1980-1988 Kuwait helped Iraq, lending billions of dollars and providing port access. Saddam expected Kuwait to waive the loan, and when they didn’t, he invaded the country.
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| Traditional dhows |
The Grand Mosque is a must-see in Kuwait but not so for Alexis. I was outfitted in an abaya and scarf and led on a tour by a devout Kuwaiti woman. The sumptuous Mosque was built after Kuwait struck oil. It can accommodate 10,000 in the prayer hall and up to 180,000 in the surrounding courtyards. The mosaic tiles were all hand-cut, the ceiling design was exquisite and the chandeliers tinkled in the air-conditioning breeze. My guide provided me a theory why women wear black. In the 8th century an Iraqi merchant came to town with many bolts of black fabric to off-load. He spoke to his friend the poet and asked him to write a two-line poem . . . my love is hidden beneath a black veil, something to that effect. It worked, black chadors began selling like hot cakes.
Another famous Danish architect to leave his mark on Kuwait is none other than our own Jørn Utzon. In 1972 he designed the Kuwait National Assembly Building, which was completed in 1982. Nearby was the Kuwait Opera House, another exquisite building, luminous and titanium lined, it’s the largest cultural centre in the Middle East. Kuwait is the Middle East’s cultural hub. There are a number of buildings of architectural merit. Currently the world’s tallest tower is being constructed. It’s 1001 feet height is a reference to the classic collection of Middle Eastern tales, One Thousand and One Arabian Nights
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| The Grand Mosque |
There is no alcohol allowed in Kuwait, instead men lounge about in fuggy shisha bars sucking on water pipes, or they sip tea and play dominoes in cafes. There are few women about. Another highlight in the Kuwaiti calender is the camel races. Until 2005 the jockeys were all children, however with pressure from human rights organisations the Kuwaitis were forced to rethink that. Nowadays the jockeys are robots, operated by remote control.
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| Kuwait National Assembly, designed by Jørn Utson (Google photo) |
The best view of Kuwait’s skyline is from the Causeway. The 48km causeway spans the bay of Kuwait, linking the city with the northern region and Doha. It cost $3 billion. But what’s the point of having the best view if you’re unable to take a photo? ‘Hurry, hurry!’ Walid urged, as we stepped out of the car for a surreptitious quick pic. Unfortunately, Alexis didn’t hurry sufficiently, and was left standing by the side of the highway. The sound of sirens grew louder, the police car pulled up, and Walid was sternly reprimanded. However, Walid could talk his way out of anything. As for Alexis, he was already forming the words of the bad review he’d write.
As night fell, we arrived at Al Shaheed Park, part of a green belt around Kuwait City. The latest section had only been open for ten days. There were lush plantings, green lawns, and illuminated fountains. Considering that all the water is from desalination plants, the project is a tremendous feat. There were playgrounds, picnic areas, and swinging lovers’ seats. Friends and families filled the parks enjoying the evening passeggiata. It has enriched Kuwait; the best time to enjoy the city is after sunset.
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Disguised as a mild-mannered corporate employee, Ros lives a secret life as a world traveller and adventurer amassing a count of more than 150 UN-recognised countries. |
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