'Unique' is an overused term to describe almost anything, but world traveller, Ros Freeman, found it perfectly appropriate to describe this African republic.
Most border crossings are tiresome affairs, with hours sitting and waiting. Not so the crossing between Sierra Leone and Liberia. A gang of girls appeared wearing trays of bananas, crisps and socks. They smiled, flirted and pleaded with us to buy their wares, and so we did. Money-sellers soon arrived, flicking wads of Liberian dollars in exchange for our Sierra Leone leones. Most riveting though were the van packers, stacking cars and vans with an impossible number of bags. ‘That’s impossible, they’ll never be able to stack that’, we declared. But they did. Achieving the impossible is so very African. Most of the vehicles had seen better days, held together with glue and a prayer. Who needs a panel beater when sellotape will do the trick? Who needs a new windscreen, sellotape again. Who needs brake fluid when shampoo and sugar will work.
We continued along the main road then turned off a dirt track for a painful two hours. Sitting on top of the axel wasn’t ideal. But Andrey, our tour leader, cheered us along. They have a fabulous buffet at the Lodge, and there’ll be lobster. We arrived at Nana’s Lodge long after dark. Pointing out to the black abyss, Andrey said ‘this is one of Africa’s best surfing beaches. Oh, and here comes the buffet!’ We tentatively opened each Bain Marie, but alas, no lobsters.
The following morning we emerged from our rustic cabins, enjoying the beach in all its glory. Fishermen were casting nets, surfers walked along the sand with boards tucked under their arms, and not far along the beach was a ghost ship, an abandoned oil tanker. Robertsport Beach had it all. Well almost.
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| Dining on Robertsport Beach |
In the early 19th century, the newly arrived Americo-Liberians, believing themselves to be culturally and educationally superior to the Indigenous, ruled the country. The settlers adopted clothing such as hoop skirts and tail coats. Their culture included American influences and Protestant Christianity. The Indigenous worshipped ancient spirits which were connected to their land. These religious practices were regarded as barbaric by the Americo-Liberians, and they sought to eradicate them. Despite independence being granted in 1847 Indigenous people were denied citizenship in their own land until 1904. Tension between the two groups simmered.
In 1989 an uprising by Charles Taylor sparked a civil war. 250,000 people were killed. Armies of drugged child soldiers were led by warlords, including General Butt Naked, known for his attire. He exchanged Liberia’s diamonds and gold for Mexican cartels’ guns and drugs. He would conscript children by lacing their food with cocaine and showing them Jean-Claude Van Damme films. The war continued for 14 years; it was the pressure of the Women of Liberia Mass Action for Peace movement that brought an end to the war. That year, 2003, Ellen Johnson Sirleaf, a US-educated economist and former Minister of Finance, was elected as the first female president in Africa. She later won the Nobel Peace Prize. Her tenure was followed by President George Weah, considered one of the greatest of all African football players.
Of Liberia’s 5.6 million population, 1.7 million live in Monrovia, the capital city. The city is named after US President James Monroe, who was a supporter of the American Colonization Society. If the name seems familiar it’s because over one tenth of the world’s ships are registered in Monrovia, as a means to avoid taxes and stricter employment regulations. The world’s largest rubber plantation is located in Liberia, the Firestone Rubber Plantation.
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| Remnants of the glory days of Ducal Palace |
High on the hill sits the Ducal Palace Intercontinental Hotel. It was built in 1959 and funded by Colonel Gaddafi. In its day it was the most prestigious hotel in Western Africa. Guests included Queen Elizabeth II, John F. Kennedy, Nelson Mandela, Michael Jackson and Idi Amin. Thankfully not all at the same time. The story goes that Idi Amin went for a swim in the pool wearing two pistols in his holster. Unfortunately he didn’t drown. In 1989 the hotel was abandoned and has remained closed ever since. As we shuffled through the grand ballroom and down the sweeping staircase there were hints of the hotel’s glory days. Now it’s a derelict structure but one with the best views in Liberia.
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| View from Ducal Palace |
On our last day we visited a wildlife sanctuary where many monkeys, antelope and pangolin were looked after until they are rehabilitated. Dedicated staff would often stay overnight to protect and administer medication to injured animals. Nearby was an eco-resort, overlooking a beautiful beach, and offering forest walks with a chance to see chimpanzees. Anticipating a hot, steamy walk I opted to relax by the beach and have lunch. Scanning the menu, I had to rub my eyes, there was lobster. Finally! As I dined on lobster overlooking the ocean, it was a perfect finale to Liberia and to my African adventures.
Travelling to Africa never disappoints. The continent offers untold adventures. I dodged a volcanic eruption in Ethiopia, and just missed an attempted coup in Guinea-Bissau. Not getting a visa to Chad was disappointing, running out of fuel in Liberia was a nuisance, and sometimes our hotels didn’t have hot water, cold water, air-conditioning, WiFi, or electricity. Oh, and I had two proposals. That’s Africa! We travelled along hundreds of kilometres of bumpy roads, a metaphor for Africa’s future. Nevertheless Africa gets under your skin; its vastness, its landscapes, its beauty, its people. It always does.
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Disguised as a mild-mannered corporate employee, Ros lives a secret life as a world traveller and adventurer , amassing a count of more than 150 UN-recognised countries. |
Ros Freeman travelled independently at her own expense, but would not go anywhere unless Kirsty at Flight Centre Eastgardens booked her flights.
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