SINGAPORE’S CHEEP CHEEP SUNDAY BRUNCH

COLOURFUL mata puteh songbird in a homemade
bamboo cage with eye-catching ceramic feeding dishes.     

david ellis

EVERY Sunday morning dozens of Singapore's bachelors pick up their birds and head off to the Wah Heng Coffee Shop for a few hours of warbling seductively-sweet nothings in a public ritual of affection that's become somewhat the talk of the town.

And even if they eventually marry, most of these blokes will find it hard to kick the habit, leaving wife and kids at home, and with old faithfuls or new-found birds in-hand, continue the Sunday morning fraternisations they've engaged in for more years than most care to remember.

Yet there's not the slightest suggestion of any shenanigans: for these men who often live in pokey high-rises, and for their birds that are of the true avian variety confined to even pokier cages, Sunday morning outings to the Wah Heng Coffee Shop are a highlight of their week.

In land-scare Singapore few can indulge pets beyond birds in cages and fish in bowls, and keeping these songbirds (as they are known) is a big part of life for many… with Sunday mornings their opportunity to show off carefully nurtured plumage, to listen to competitive whistlings and warblings, compare bright eyes and correct posture, and to marvel at the intricacy of hand-crafted bamboo and teak cages.

Several hundred dollars can change hands here for a single merbok, thrush, bulbul or mata puteh from the nearby jungles of Malaysia, or further-off China.

And these captives are treated right royally, being indulged with such treats as tropical fruits, boiled eggs, live insects and even baby cereals… and although most songbirds are unabashed show-offs in the pursuit of the opposite sex, their owners often spend endless hours whistling tunes or playing recorded bird songs for them to mimic in the hope of finding songbird love at Wah Heng.

Sunday mornings here began close on 30 years ago, when a handful of enthusiasts gathered to show off cages they'd crafted for their birds, often from scrap, rather than the birds themselves.

Over the years the attention swung the other way, and there's now even a national competition with S$10,000 in cash to find Singapore's finest songbirds.

The Wah Heng action begins at 6.30am with cages arriving on the backs of pushbikes and motorcycles, to be swung from rods across the pavement so owners can admire colleague's birds and cages, discuss training strategies and engage in good-natured banter.

A CORNER of the crowds that gather along the street
around the Wah Heng Coffee Shop on Sunday mornings.

By eight o'clock there's not a seat to be had, not just because of the near-200 songbird owners now sipping coffee or tucking into brekkie, but because of swelling numbers of camera-toting tourists.

We talk to George, a Singaporean hairdresser and owner of a mata puteh who has been coming to Wah Heng for over ten years. He shows us his bird in a bamboo cage he made himself, one whose lacquer is mirror-bright and with intricate ivory and ceramic handles and food bowls – even baby toys to keep his bird amused during the long hours George is in his hair salon.

"I'm waiting for the worm man to come, although I've already bought this for my bird's dinner tonight," he says, showing us a small wire mesh cylinder filled with fresh grass and dozens of flittering little grasshoppers.

"My bird loves these, and the worms too – and fresh fruit and honey," George says. And remarkably as much as these men are attached to their songbird pets, unlike westerners they seldom give them names. George can't explain it. "It's a bird," is his only reasoning.

SHOW OFF: a Singapore songbird does
its stuff at a Sunday morning gathering.

As the morning moves on, owners encourage their birds to noisily do their stuff, traders haggle over prices of bird feeds and novelties, and Wah Heng does a roaring trade in steaming bowls of Singaporean noodles, pork, chicken and seafood.

Then at 10.30 the cages start coming down, disappearing under elaborate hand-made covers, to be strapped back on the pushbikes and motorcycles.

Sunday morning is over; for these men and their birds, it's back to their high-rises for another week.

(Ask taxi drivers to you to the Sunday Songbirds at Wah Heng Coffee Shop on the corner of Tiong Bahru and Seng Poh Roads; or take the MRT or bus to the Tiong Bahru MRT inter-change and walk to from there.)

All Aboard for Svalbard

Just 600 miles from the North Pole lies the island group of Svalbard, of which Spitsbergen is the largest. Variously occupied and exploited by the Dutch, Russians and Norwegians, in 1920 it was decided by treaty that the Norwegians should administer it and the capitol, Longyearbyen, flies the Norwegian tricolour.

Atlantic Motor Yachts: No Shortcuts

In a bold double-dare, two yacht owners decided Australia needed a better dealership. The results silenced the critics and have everyone else talking.

Ron Winestock and Graeme Skerritt never set out to be luxury yacht dealers. But when they each bought their own Azimut luxury yachts over five years ago, they saw a definite need for superior after sales service.

Perhaps they weren't absolute experts in $1 million luxury sports cruisers, but as well-established businessmen in their own right, they could see a niche in the market and Atlantic Motor Yachts was born.

Both Ron and Graeme, whose individual business interests are quite removed from motor yachts, nevertheless possess that near-obsession with getting things right. Both understand that building quality, both in a brand and a boat, takes time and an unflinching attention to detail.

"We knew exactly where we wanted to go with Atlantic Motor Yachts. You can't rush these things. We waited, watched and made our move. Now here we are," explains Ron with deliberate economy of words.

Almost immediately they threw down the challenge to Azimut head office in Italy. "If you can do better….," came the reply and the rest is history. Their objective is now " to promote the Italian design, style and performance of Azimut luxury products in Australia." Their commitment to excellence has already recognised in both sales and service as a Platinum Azimut dealer.

And what a brand to start with. The precocious young Azimut took over the prestigious, century-old Benetti family business in 1985, thereby acquiring not only their immense goodwill, but also their considerable technical expertise, development and planning methods. The strategically brilliant merger instantly made the combined Italian factory a formidable operator, able to match terms with the world's best.

Now, in the midst of an enormously competitive market, the relatively new Atlantic Motor Yachts dealership have built on that initial vision, grown to a staff of seven, opened a second office in Queensland and translated it all into sales success. And success breeds success. Exactly twelve months ago, Atlantic Motor Yachts were approached to represent the classic passagemaker brand, Grand Banks.

General manager, Michael Boon, was lured away from the powerful Avante Marine Group to head up the Pyrmont (Sydney) based boutique dealership about the same time. His intimate exposure to brands such as Bayliner, Trophy and Meridian over many years made him an ideal candidate to oversee the burgeoning operation.

"I little bit of grey hair goes a long way in this business," quips Mike. "The (younger) sales guys like Dean (Husband) and Ethan (Twyman) do a fantastic job guiding clients through every step of the ownership process but sometimes, in the end, the client wants to confide in another older chap to make sure it's all square."

And the boys do know how to make a sale. One of their most recent customers has just taken delivery of a brand new, $14 million, Azimut 105, without doubt one of the most elegant and impressive luxury yachts this side of Monaco. The owner is so delighted with his purchase he has consented to allow Atlantic Motor Yachts to exhibit this magnificent vessel at the forthcoming Sydney Boat Show where she will be the largest on display.

"Grand Banks is a brand I am personally excited about," says Mike, "it's not the blockbuster, show-stopper like the Azimut, it's a classic passagemaker vessel built with a great deal of attention to detail and craftsmanship. It appeals to an entirely different type of buyer, so the two brands live happily together here with us without conflict."

As a contrast, the Azimuts range in size from 39 to 116 feet and from $1.0 million to over $20 million, covering a wide range of aspirations and financial ability, whereas the more conservative Grand Banks vessels cover 39 to 72 feet and start at $0.9 million, topping out at $5.0 million.

Azimuts have become a firm favourite with the growing number of boat share syndicates, where multiple owners get together to buy and share the use and upkeep of a premium yacht. This pragmatic and sensible ownership alternative is bringing the exclusivity of Azimut luxury motor yachts to more and more lifestyle lovers.

"Boat share owners really want 'bang for their buck' and Azimut is ideal. It's a brand that immediately gets attention and makes the desired statement. And our operation is perfectly suited to this type of ownership. We service, detail and maintain every aspect of the vessels so owners can just turn up and go!"

On the other hand, Mike clearly identifies with the sort of chaps who look longingly at the robust elegance of Grand Banks. He flicks proudly through a brochure, admiring the restrained yet purposeful lines. These are boats for seasoned types with a knowledge and abiding love of the romantic maritime lifestyle, and a means for them to fulfil a life's ambition to run away to sea. Mike's eyes almost mist over while looking at the eminently seaworthy Aleutian 72.


"Grand Banks buyers tend to be from private enterprise, medical or legal backgrounds who have a high respect for function and reliability," says Mike with conviction, "Azimut buyers are just as passionate, but a little younger and love the idea of having some exuberant fun."

"One of our Grand Banks owners," he announces proudly, "is just back from a circumnavigation of Tasmania!"

As Mike relates the many happy owner stories, it becomes clear that the responsibility of owners' well-being does not stop after the cheque is written. Retaining the loyalty and confidence of people who are spending the sums of money required to obtain the boat of their dreams is no trifling matter. AMY also offers a comprehensive after-sales package that includes servicing and maintenance. Buyers who have taken this strongly encouraged option experience a higher level of satisfaction with their purchase and spend more time enjoying their boat and less time worrying about it. Resale value is also preserved, easily offsetting any perceived expense.

"Some dealers like to use sub-contractors for their after sales support, "explains Mike, "but there are hazards in that policy. Not all sub-contractors will share your service philosophy and that can lead to disenchantment."

There's a lot left unsaid in that last statement. A happy buyer is a repeat buyer, and that simple and often overlooked proverb is the downfall of many businesses from luxury boats to nuts and bolts.

"Another of our real strengths is having Franco Spataro join us full time as technical manager from Azimut in Italy," continues Mike, "his knowledge and understanding of the product and its minute technical details is not just impressive, it's scary."

Gino Espinosa fills the post of service manager. Mike explains that Gino's knowledge across a wide range of brands and boat types, is a major asset to the company and, in tandem with Franco, vital in fulfilling AMY's quality assurance pledge to new buyers.

From what began as almost a 'dare', Atlantic Motor Yachts have put beyond doubt their ability to manage and service two of the most respected and contrasting motor yacht brands in successful harmony.

---

For further information:



Head Office:
Suite 133 Lower Deck
26-32 Pirrama Road
Pyrmont NSW 2009
Australia

Phone: +61 2 8569 0700

Michael Boon: Mobile : 0400 989 460

michaelb@atlanticmotoryachts.com.au

Website: www.atlanticmotoryachts.com.au

Pull Quote:

'our boats are a result of the contemporary design and construction and our success is a result of our unique level of after sales service'

Emerald Lady: Jewel Of The Sea

Luxury Charter


Stepping aboard Emerald Lady one word immediately springs to mind: luxury. Newly refitted with designer touches throughout, the focus on board is the exceptional hospitality and outstanding cuisine – all enjoyed in a setting fit for royalty.

By Hayley Dean

Emerald Lady is a superyacht that is instantly striking. A sleek package at 35 metres, there is no denying her visual appeal. However, the most impressive attribute of this vessel goes beyond her exterior. It is the friendly and professional crew that create a charter experience like no other. No request is an inconvenience and every whim is catered for with a smile. The team seem to have impeccable timing for appearing as if out of nowhere to provide for guests, giving you maximum privacy and supreme service at the same time. Guests are never left wanting for anything and the service provided is truly five star.

The comforts on board are upheld in the superbly appointed galley where the meals are created by chef Craig Grimes. The extraordinary food is without doubt a highlight of the Emerald Lady experience. Thai-style prawns, lightly marinated lamb cutlets and fresh seared Morton Bay bugs with squid ink ribbons are just a few of the gourmet creations whipped up night after night. For the sweet tooth there are indulgent desserts such as a white chocolate and banana sandwich with freshly made rum and raisin ice cream or a sticky date pudding with crème anglaise.

Craig has 15 years experience as a chef and says his love of different tastes and big boats brought him to where he is today. Before becoming a chef, Craig was a communicator in the navy during the Gulf War. It was in these years that Craig was exposed to a diverse range of foods and discovered his true passion.


“Being in the navy inspired me to become a chef,” explains Craig. “As soon as I got out (of the navy) I knew it was what I wanted to do.” His time spent at sea also prepared him for working on boats as a fulltime occupation and he now divides his time between luxury charter boats in Australia.

Before working on luxury superyachts, Craig was a chef back on dry land at a café at Southport on Queensland’s Gold Coast. Here he held Moroccan cooking classes adding more cultural variety to his repertoire. At the same time he was also doing contract work – helping chefs out in a range of different restaurants – preparing every cuisine from Asian to Italian to Australian bush food and everything in between. His skill and versatility has taken him as far afield as England, Spain and France.

Emerald Lady was originally built in 1983 by Lloyds Shipyard in Brisbane for Sir Justin Hickey as Lady Barbara. She was a magnificent superyacht even then and was well known in Australia, particularly around the Gold Coast area. After completing a world passage she was based in the States before operating as a successful charter boat in the Caribbean from the mid '90s until 2003. She was spotted in Fort Lauderdale by Patrick Gay, who recognised her from her former glory years in Australia. He subsequently bought her and shipped her home in 2003 to undergo two years of extensive refit and refurbishment at Coomera.

The vessel was relaunched as Emerald Lady at Gold Coast City Marina in December 2005. Six months of sea trials and shake down cruises followed as well as the final commissioning of engineering and auxillary equipment. At the completion of these trials the crew were able to address the list of minor adjustments to ensure the vessel was ready to operate as a luxury charter superyacht of the highest standard.

Captain Jack Branac has been with Emerald Lady since her relaunch and couldn’t be happier with the results. According to Jack the best part about her is she has the best of both worlds of a new boat and an experienced boat.

“It’s even better than having a new boat,” he says. “She has proven her reliability, travelling all over the world with the original hull, yet the engineering is all brand new.”

The captain also loves being based at Gold Coast City Marina when not on charter. As the boat is most commonly chartered in Queensland, he says the proximity is a blessing. “The fact that we have the support of the marina right at our doorstep is definitely one of the best things. If ever we have a problem the contractors are right there to come out and help.”

Having fulltime engineer Brad Ashby on board is also helpful and assists the smooth running of the superyacht at all times. Brad takes care of the engine room, deck work, recreational equipment and all detailing of Emerald Lady's exterior. Meanwhile, the immaculate interiors are maintained by stewardess Leanne Pitt. After four years working as a first class stewardess for Emirates Airlines, Leanne swapped her jet-setting lifestyle for one on the water and, like Brad, has been part of the Emerald Lady crew for over a year.

"One of the best things is being based here in Queensland and visiting the Great Barrier Reef as often as we do. It's great to be able to get out there and explore and enjoy all the tropical places," she says.

Captain Jack explains that the boat is most often chartered on the east coast of Australia. “We are busy enough regionally at the moment but we plan to expand our charters to Papua New Guinea and the Kimberley in the next couple of seasons,” he says. She is a popular choice for corporate day charters, particularly in Sydney during the month of December, when she plays hostess to Christmas parties on the harbour as well as Boxing Day and New Year's Eve charters. Emerald Lady has even become the perfect setting for stylish weddings on the water, catering for up to 50 guests.

Each season she heads north for remote fishing charters in the Top End. “We usually operate between Cairns and Cape York between September and November,” explains Jack. “There is an amazing abundance of fish life up there – particularly Barramundi.”

Fishing is definitely a speciality on board with Emerald Lady offering reef fishing, deep sea fishing or even acting as a game fishing mother ship when required. If fishing isn’t your thing there are a whole range of other activities to keep you entertained. You can take a trip to the nearest island or beach by tender, paddle around on a sea kayak and swim or snorkel from the marlin board at the stern. There’s also water-skiing, scuba diving or riding on a sea biscuit if you’re feeling adventurous. Alternatively there is simply lying in the sun with a drink for those really wanting to relax and indulge in the superyacht lifestyle.

Relaxing is another definite focal point on board Emerald Lady and the rear deck is the perfect informal setting for a tranquil start to the day with breakfast alfresco-style. Craig can cook up anything you fancy – eggs Benedict, banana pancakes or simply a platter of fresh seasonal fruits. This area is perfect for catching the morning rays with a freshly brewed coffee and features elegant teak tables and floors with dining facilities for up to 10 guests. There is also access to the lower cockpit and sundeck from here.

The sundeck on the upper level is perhaps the most social area of the boat, with comforts such as a day bed and large sun-baking area as well as a stainless steel barbecue for creating sumptuous outdoor feasts served up at the covered outdoor dining area that can seat twelve. There is even a helipad on this level for the convenience of ship to shore transport.

For more formal banquets, the eight seat dining table in the opulent saloon is the perfect location for intimate gatherings. The imported crystal glasses and fine white china compliment the first rate service, delicious food and stunning presentation. Intricate details such as the hand-beaded placemats and fresh floral centrepieces complete the dining experience.

The formal dining area flows into the lounge area of the saloon offering a generous L-shaped cream leather lounge and reclining chair. Electronic chrome and glass doors slide open onto the aft deck. The saloon oozes extravagance with its rich mahogany cabinets and tables, flat screen television and suede furnishings.

The luxury touches of Emerald Lady are continued throughout the vessel with sleeping accommodation for up to eight guests split among two twin guest cabins, a VIP stateroom and a master stateroom. All the rooms feature mahogany and suede finishes, ensuites, air-conditioning, flat screen televisions and lush carpets throughout. The forward VIP stateroom offers full length wardrobes, a spacious ensuite and king-size bed while the aft master stateroom boasts a walk-in wardrobe, double shower ensuite and lounge. Crew quarters are separate for guest privacy.

Graceful on the outside, with a warm and welcoming crew on the inside, to charter Emerald Lady is to experience Australian hospitality at its very best. At the end of our charter there was only one resounding complaint: it was time to leave.

For further information or charter inquiries please contact Gold Coast City Marina on +61 (0)7 5573 1311 or visit www.emeraldlady.com.au

Qld: On a High - Traveloscopy

Qld: On a High - Traveloscopy

SuperStar Gemini Coming Our Way - Traveloscopy Information Portal: Cruise Explore Expedition Travel News

SuperStar Gemini Coming Our Way - Traveloscopy

qualia: Unusual Luxury

Australia’s excited, Queensland’s excited and even the landscape gardeners on Hamilton Island are excited at the opening of Qualia, a luxury resort rivalling the best in the world. PAMELA WRIGHT reports onsite.

Although the Whitsunday Islands offer five star accommodation, there’s never been anything quite like the new resort, Qualia. The name has Latin origins meaning ‘a collection of sensory experiences’ and without doubt, lives up to its name. Set right on the secluded northern point of Hamilton Island in The Whitsundays, the exclusive resort consists of 60 private pavilions and is not just luxury, but luxury plus. About the size of a small house at 140 square metres, all villas have magnificent island vistas, dedicated staff, a private central swimming pool and exceptional, gourmet dining. About half of them have private plunge pools and I can imagine, after settling in, that plenty of guests won’t even contemplate leaving this special seclusion for the duration of their stay. I wouldn’t, although I might take leave of absence and head down to the main street of Hamilton to check out the different restaurants and bars which are lively and fun. And it’s not as if you’re stuck if you want to get out and about. Getting around is made easy with new-fangled electric two-person buggies, with one assigned to each pavilion. A bit like golf buggies, they’re easy to manoeuvre and they’re yours to use whenever you want.

Bob Oatley and son Sandy, who own the whole island, were responsible for the creation of qualia, an important addition to the premium extreme of Australian accommodation and they feel sure it will reinvigorate the luxury market here. “With uncompromising service and outstanding facilities, attention to detail in the design and construction and the scale and quality of the gardens, pools and public areas has never been seen before in this country,” said Sandy. And guests from overseas will appreciate that Qualia is distinctively Australian even down to the last piece of landscaping with the pavilions crafted from locally-sourced native timbers and stone, all set among eucalyptus trees and views of the Australian coastline and Whitsunday Passage. “The ground at Hamo is rocky and the land very hilly so the main aim was to make the mountain green and consumer friendly and we succeeded,” bragged one of the head landscape gardeners objectively. “qualia was a huge undertaking but it looks fantastic and the contrast from the land to the sea makes a magical setting,” added happy landscaper Carl Friend. Having stayed in many five star properties, this casually elegant resort has a new appeal that both domestic and international visitors have been waiting for. Built on 30 acres, the setting of the pavilions makes the most of the sun during the day and sunrises and sunsets to die for.

After landing at the Great Barrier Reef airport on daily flights from Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane and Cairns, guests, who are restricted to 18 years and over, are transferred in sumptuous style to the Long Pavilion for check-in and welcome drinks in the very swish sunken lounge at the $75 million dollar development. Of course some will arrive by helicopter and others will moor their yachts at the 205 berth Hamilton Island marina. Next year, yachties will be able to use the new Great Barrier Reef Yacht Club and the following year, the Peter Thomson designed 18-hole championship golf course will be in full swing, just across the water on Dent Island.

‘Where else but Queensland’ especially when a tailor made helicopter or boat tour will take qualia guests to The Great Barrier Reef, the most extensive reef system in the world, with 1500 species of fish, a kaleidoscope of 400 types of coral and more than 30 different marine mammals. And just 25 minutes by boat is the famous Whitehaven Beach where the pure white silicon sand can be so bright on a sunny day, sunglasses are compulsory.

Spa Qualia, by the water’s edge with the sound of the sea to soothe, has four single treatment rooms and two couples rooms complete with Roman bath, a state of the art gym, two infinity pools and a pavilion tha can be used for yoga and meditation. There are two signature treatments, both from Australia. The first is a hot stone massage called Bularri Yarrul or “warm stone” in the Kamilaroi indigenous language using 300 million year old stones from northern New South Wales. Their energy “jiva” has a deep relaxing effect on the muscles and the synergy of the stones combined with the massage is very effective in relieving tension. The second treatment, a one hour aromatherapy massage, uses a boutique range of ten Australian handmade blended essential oils called Anoint which act on the body's energy centres, or chakras, to release emotional blocks and provide relaxation and grounding.

Keeping in mind that rates include all meals, non-alcoholic beverages, non-motorised water sports, exclusive use of an electric buggy and complete indulgence, a pavilion with a plunge pool will cost $A1600 per night and $A1400 without. The ultimate in luxury is the larger Beach House right on the water with extensive entertaining areas, a full size swimming pool and a separate guest pavilion at $3000 per night. And if you want a change in your dining routine, a few selected restaurants in the main street of Hamilton are on the menu.

The head chef at qualia, Frenchman Stephane Rio, was treated to a European food familiarisation before starting at the resort. To ensure that he was right up to date with the best international food, he was sent on a ‘study tour’ to catch up on the latest trends and collect innovative recipes to be served at the two main restaurants, the elegant Long Pavilion and the more casual Pebbles. Rio and his team provide exceptional food and wine with special dining options available on the beach, in the library, in private dining rooms or, you can even order a specially prepared gourmet picnic served on the beach.

All sorts of activities, 40 altogether, are available on Hamilton and I ventured forth to try the relatively new Jetryder, a high-speed, 420 horsepower speedboat. It takes up to 14 passengers on a 30 minute super fast ride and shows some of the surrounding islands although, with the spins and full-time hanging on, there’s little opportunity to find out which is which.

The choice of the name qualia was very important to the owners and is best summed up by the beautiful ocean breeze from the Coral Sea, the water lapping over the pebble shore, the rustling of gum leaves and the scent of eucalyptus trees combined with the taste sensations of world class chefs. With a tropical climate year round, from 23 degrees Celsius in winter to 31 in summer, any which way, qualia is all too much for the senses.

For more information visit www.qualiaresort.com.au or email qualia@hamiltonisland.com.au

Journeys

Journeys

Musings from the team of travel writers and photographers of the Global Travel Writers alliance.