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August 13, 2019

Remembering the early Variety Club Bashes


The Redex Variety Club Bash attracts many a persistent "rapscallion", Ben Seehusen of Epping Real Estate being no exception. He's participated in all five "Bashes", surviving fire, flood and frustration, and managing to have lots of fun along the way. Ben tells some of his stories to Linda Emslie.

Ben's passion for motor-sport began in the late sixties when he rallied a VW in the Southern Cross events. He also gained some road racing experience in various events at Warwick Farm, Amaroo and Oran Park, preferring a Volkswagen Sports Sedan as his competition vehicle.

After hearing Dick Smith talk on the radio about the revamped Redex Trial (The Variety Bash), Ben was keen to enter. The first firm refusal was no obstacle; "Dick was only organising it for a few of his mates." Neither was the $1000 "to show our good intentions“. Repeated phone calls and letters saw Ben and his manic mechanic added to the list of fifty-three participants.



In 1974 Ben's old "woppy" sports sedan had blown up in a training run. Since then he hadn't participated in motor-sport for one reason or another. So this new adventure in 1985 called for a new car. Or, rather an old car. (One of the pre-requisites for the Variety Bash was to have a pre '66 model car.)

As Ben's "rather keen on the old Vee Dub" he went for a '58 Beetle. This valiant vehicle was pitted against other old timers such as a 1928 soft top Alfa Romeo, driven by the dinner suited Len Evans. Other hot favourites were huge 'yank tanks', Mercedes, and a Holden "built like a wine bottle, about which we thought if it ever rolled it would never bloody stop. 'There was even a London taxi one year. The little VW, however, was a match for any of these even though it only had room for two team members. That meant all costs were split just two ways, upping the expenses just a little.

Ben has competed in each succeeding Bourke Bash, and has witnessed many funny incidents. Annual amusement is supplied, without fail, by the tumble-troubled George who, Ben tells us, hasn't survived a single rally without either blowing up his car, or rolling it. "But, that's George every year."



One of the funniest incidents Ben remembers was the time they lost their oil cooler somewhere near Bourke.

Ben and his navigator were slowed down by some black soil plains. Torrential rain had turned the black plains into a slippery, treacherous quagmire. Ben's navigator was out bouncing up and down on the rear bumper bar for traction, while the Beetle crawled along at 15km/h. They decided they wouldn't make it through to Bourke on this route, so headed for Brewarrina instead. The local copper opened up the service station for them. (Sunday afternoons in Brewarrina are pretty quiet). They were told that the road to Bourke was closed. However, seeing as they had made it through on the Brewarrina road they would probably get through on the Bourke road.

"I'll just follow you through and make sure you get onto the bitumen," the friendly policeman said.

"It was teeming with rain and there were sheets of water everywhere over the road. Mud and junk everywhere." The copper ducked home to grab his wife for a Sunday drive and followed the Beetle out onto the muddy plains in his paddywagon.

Ben barrelled along doing 70 or 80 miles an hour, slewing sideways through puddles, making the most of the empty slippery road. When Ben looked in the rear vision mirror he saw the old copper's wagon doing the same thing!". Ben recalls it's the only time he's been able to do 80 mile an hour "where I've had a copper two foot up me clanger...He was having a ball." Sixty miles out of Brewarrina the oil cooler hose came off and Ben's WW lost all its oil. No problem, the policeman gave them the ride of their lives in the back of the paddywagon to get some more oil. Without him they would have been "up the creek without a paddle". The necessary repairs were completed in record time, and the Beetle continued its rally. This year's Bourke to Broome bash almost saw the end of the battling Beetle, however. The daunting entry fee of $10,000 didn't pose much of a problem,



to be contd

August 11, 2019

Return to Sri Lanka








‘AYUBOWAN’ The lovely greeting salutation, which is Sinhalese for Long Life

I was invited by the Sri Lankan Government to return and review the tourism side of the after effects of the April terrorism atrocities. My previous visit was in 2016, following an official invitation from the United Nations World Tourism Organisation to represent Australian travel media at their special conference; Tourism: A Catalyst for Development, Peace and Reconciliation in Passikudah, Sri Lanka.

I joined up with a group of Australian travel agents and one trade media lass for a 10-day exploration of the major tourist destinations.

Arriving at Colombo, the first thing noticed is the very obvious increase in security, which gives one the feeling of safety. Tourism is one of the main industries for this tiny island nation – about the size of Tasmania – but with a population of over 21 million.

From Colombo, we headed North East to Sigiriya, then to the coast and Trincomalee. Next we headed back to the heart of the country and Kandy, then further South to Ella and back to the East coast town to Galle, before leaving for Mt Lavina and returning to Colombo. Many a kilometre!

What had changed? It is very obvious that the people of Sri Lanka have formed a unified bond, forgetting about various religious differences and merging as one to overcome the tragedy. All places of worship were open and people were smiling and going about their daily chores. Even the various political groups seem to be onside for the recovery.

Everywhere we went the hotels and resorts were showing good occupancy and we managed to bump into Aussie travellers at most of them, who all expressed that they felt totally safe and were all enjoying their holidays.

As we all know, things can change, so always check at: https://smartraveller.gov.au/Pages/default.aspx for the latest advice!

Reasons why you should go ….

Sri Lanka – The Wonder of Asia

A land of many colours, attractions and opportunities for travellers.

A tiny country, once known as Ceylon, with a huge history.

About 2,600 years of recorded history dates this civilisation. One such is the Ramayana, when the island was called Lanka and was a fortress for King Ravana.

Buddhism was introduced in the 3rd century BC, to become the dominant religion.

Around the 6th century BC the Sinhalese arrived from Northern India and a substantial civilisation evolved. They established various kingdoms and continued to prosper until the 16th century.

Then the Europeans, looking for exotic spices started a series of invasions. The Portuguese in the 16th century, the Dutch took over in the 17th century. Then followed the British in 1796 who then took over the whole island in 1815. Leading to most of the island became a British colony in 1902,

In 1948, then known as Ceylon they became independent and changed their name to Sri Lanka in 1972.

Natural scenic beauty from golden beaches with crystal waters, to mist-covered valleys covered in ethical tea plantations.


Heritage – Sigiriya, the Eighth Wonder on the World, a fifth century AD fortress and a water garden displays some of the most futuristic elements of landscaping and some of the oldest murals recorded in the country.

Wildlife - Ignoring its small size Sri Lanka boasts of one of the highest rates of biological endemism in the world whether in plants or animals and is included among the top five biodiversity hotspots in the world. Of the ninety-one species of mammals found in Sri Lanka Asian elephants, sloth bear, leopards, sambar and wild buffaloes engages the majority of the attention of wildlife enthusiast.

Despite the mighty elephants and rare amphibians found in the country, birds are the glory of Sri Lanka’s wildlife. Boasting nearly 433 bird species of which 233 are resident Sri Lanka holds 20 endemic species while another 80 species have developed distinct Sri Lankan races, compared to their cousins in Indian mainland.

Accommodation – As tourism is one of the mainstays of the economy, a full gambit of accommodation is on offer, from top-level resorts and hotels to modest budget opportunities including homestays.

Cuisine – With such a wonderful and varied cultural background, added to by an abundance of wonderful fresh produce, you will find some of the most delicious food I have sampled anywhere in the world.

The People – Sri Lanka is a melting pot of cultural variety, predominantly, as one would expect from an Indian heritage, blended with the various visitors and invaders from over the centuries. A beautiful and friendly nation of multi-national people, who are delighted to be of assistance to travellers. In particular to Australians, all you have to do is mention cricket and you will find a passionate local expert, who enjoys the chance to have their team taking on the Aussies.

Words and images: Michael Osborne.

Feature supplied by: www.wtfmedia.com.au

August 10, 2019

Starry nights at Lake Tekapo


Observing the brilliance of a million and more stars, Sheriden Rhodes is privileged to enjoy a UNESCO-supported heritage reserve some call the ‘park in the sky’.

August 07, 2019

Greek Islands: Sumptuous Santorini



Surrounded by the indigo Aegean, Santorini is a glorious blue and white testament to the island beauty that is typically Greek.

Before the Latin Empire named it in the 13th century after the cathedral of Saint Irene, Santorini was known as Kallist, which translated as “the most beautiful one”. Seems there’s been unanimity for centuries. Not just the best Greek island but the ‘best island in the world’, said the BBC in recent times.

August 04, 2019

Hunter Gatherings: a day of wine and food in the Hunter Valley

click to view video
Words by John Maddocks
Images by Roderick Eime and John Maddocks

It's an early start in Sydney for our group of wine and food lovers, but no-one's complaining. In fact, there's an air of anticipation as we board the brand new, custom-built luxury coach and settle in for the two-hour journey north to the Hunter region. After all, we're headed for three exceptional estates in the country's oldest wine producing region and lunch at an award-winning restaurant. And when the wine tasting is over, we won't have to worry about driving.

John and James Lusby of Tintilla Estate
Taking a day tour makes sense in other ways too. With over 150 vineyards in the Hunter Valley, some expert guidance is needed. A lot has happened here since James Busby came back from Europe in 1832 with 20,000 vine cuttings and inspired the founding of vineyards that currently boast some of the oldest vine stock in the world. And while most wine buffs know that the Hunter has long been renowned for a unique Semillon and famous Shiraz, a new breed of young winemakers is now producing Sangiovese, Fiano and Tempranillo styles as well.

After turning off the Pacific Motorway, we enjoy the attractive Hunter landscape of rolling hills, endless vines and numerous olive groves. Soon there are several sightings of kangaroos. Reaching Pokolbin, we enter the tree-lined driveway at Tintilla Estate and are soon greeted by our hosts, John and James Lusby. Here we taste a range of whites and reds, starting with a Spritzanti and moving on to a Semillon called The Angus. Tintilla also boasts a highly rated Shiraz, an excellent Merlot and a distinctive Cabernet Merlot. The Lusbys were central in pioneering Sangiovese in the Hunter, producing a Rosato di Jupiter and a blended style. The tasting is accompanied by some delicious Tintilla olives.

Tintilla Estate wine tasting

The striking thing about our next stop, Bimbadgen, is undoubtedly the amazing view. In fact, the name itself derives from an indigenous word for 'place of good view'. Bimbadgen is well known for several other reasons too, including world-class concerts in the 'Day on the Green' program and the multi-award winning Esca restaurant. Our lunch choices at Esca are matched with appropriate wines, so the Char Siu Duck, for example, is matched with a Bimbadgen Fiano and the delicious St Agur dessert of figs, lavender, honey and meringue is accompanied by a Merlot.

Char Siu Duck at Bimbadgen
Our last stop is Leogate Estate, which needs no introduction to wine connoisseurs. The original Brokenback Vineyard was planted under the direction of a syndicate headed by the late wine writer Len Evans, and what is now Leogate Estate produces some of the finest examples of Hunter Semillon, Chardonnay and Shiraz. The wines are so good, in fact, that Leogate's 'The Basin' Reserve Shiraz and 'Brokenback Vineyard' Shiraz have been selected for Qantas First and Business Class wine lists. Needless to say, the wine tasting here was memorable.



The writer travelled courtesy of AAT Kings

Getting there: AAT Kings runs a Hunter Valley Harvest Wine Experience from Sydney. See https://www.aatkings.com/tours/sydney/hunter-valley-harvest-wine-experience/

Visit:

Tintilla Estate
725 Hermitage Road, Pokolbin NSW
Tel: (02) 6574 7093
https://www.tintilla.com.au/

Bimbadgen
790 McDonalds Rd, Pokolbin NSW
Tel:(02)49984600
https://www.bimbadgen.com.au

Leogate Estate
1693 Broke Road Pokolbin NSW
(02) 4998 7499
https://www.leogate.com.au/

See John's new book Against the Odds: surviving the world's worst tsunami and overcoming trauma at www.amazon.com.au/dp/B07CZCHX8S/

Feature supplied by: www.wtfmedia.com.au




August 03, 2019

Full Steam Ahead with Australia's first female steam engineer [video]



Our railway buff, Roderick Eime, travels to Queenstown and meets a special lady aboard Tasmania’s historic West Coast Wilderness Railway.

One of the tourism icons of Tasmania’s rugged and isolated West Coast is the namesake Wilderness Railway. It seems everyone has heard of this famous little railway, but not so many of us have actually ridden these very special rails.

Driven by an ingenious system devised by the Swiss railway engineer, Carl Roman Abt, the line first opened under controversial circumstances in 1892 and ran regular services through the stunning mountain scenery to the mines and dam works until 1963, when road transport superseded the steam infrastructure.

After a period of neglect, the railway was revived as a tourism and heritage attraction after a multi-million dollar renovation and resumed tourism services in 2003. The railway hit another speed bump in 2013, but the ball was picked up by the Tasmanian Government and, after yet more repairs and rehabilitation, reopened along its full 32.5 km length in 2014.



Now sparkling like a new pin, the Abt locomotives chug merrily up the 1 in 15 grade through freshly painted stations at Dubbil Barril, Rinadeena and Lynchford. At Dubbil Barril, the train is reversed on a classic turntable and the entire complement of passengers turn out to watch the spectacle of high-pressure steam and clunking cogs.

As I jostled for position with my camera, I noticed something a bit unusual. One of the overall-clad engineers was a woman. It was hard to tell because she swung the heavy mallet and pushed on the heavy levers just like any bloke, but what gave her away was her massive smile. Here was someone having a ball.

With the engine swung around and reattached to the rolling stock, I introduced myself to Allie Hume, Australia’s only licensed female steam engineer.



“I started off selling tickets and doing commentary and then an opportunity came up to get up on the footplate in 2005,” Allie tells me, casually wiping the grease from her hands, “and that’s where I’ve been ever since.”

Obviously, there’s quite a bit to do to gain a position up the noisy end of the train.

“You start with a boiler ticket and become a fireman to start with, then you need to sit a special exam for this railway to get the next ticket.”

But everyone wants to drive a train, so what did you have to do then?

“To be a driver you need to know what’s called ‘reciprocating steam’, then a few more tests before your final driver’s exam.”

Allie’s no amateur, she’s been on the ‘footplate’ (a flat metal plate that serves as the floor of the cab) for ten years. So did she always wanted to be a train driver?

“My brothers used to have train sets as kids and I was never interested in dolls, so I’d play with them more than the other kids. Later on, I got into high-performance vehicles and racing cars. But it was really just this particular railway that has a special attraction and when the opportunity came up I grabbed it!”

And who can blame her? The West Coast Wilderness Railway is one of those special engineering feats that brings railway enthusiasts from all over the world, and with enthusiasm like Allie’s, it’s always great fun for everyone.

For more information about the WCWR, schedules and pricing, see www.wcwr.com.au





July 29, 2019

Machu Picchu side dish: Guinea pig on a plate

Cusco

Sailing along the South American coast was the beginning of a pilgrimage to the ancient glory of Machu Picchu – fortified by gourmet guinea pigs.

Why am I feeling so guilty about eating a guinea pig? The dilemma isn’t that bad after all. Not since my chat with the chef at the Inkaterra Hotel where the train from Cusco pulls into Aguas Calientes, the closest town to Machu Picchu in Peru. One of the special dishes here is roast guinea pig served with mashed potato, drizzled in a mandarin jus. So, when I buy my guinea pigs (cuys) from a roadside barbecue in the Secret Valley, I’m told by my local guide that I should serve them with the latest in food fashion, quinoa, with over 350 varieties. Since the 1960s, efforts have been made to increase consumption of the ‘cuy’ outside South America and these days Andean immigrants in New York City raise them for major ethnic restaurants.

The meat is high in protein, low in fat and similar to the dark meat of chicken. It’s served fried (chactado or frito) or roasted in pieces (al horno) but in Cusco, it’s baked whole, like a cute, small, suckling pig garnished with pomegranates. For me, it is an instant hit. Funny though, it’s not featured on cruise menus.



If anyone had told me that after a nine-day sophisticated cruise on a posh Ponant ship, Le Boreal, along the South American coast, I’d be lugging an el cheapo backpack on the train to the ruins of Machu Picchu, I’d have said they were bonkers. But both experiences were equally fantastic and vastly different.

Our cruise starts in Puerta Caldera in Costa Rica and we head towards the palm-fringed Cocas Island on our way to Guayaquil in Ecuador, the real and only home of the Panama hat, first woven in 1630 and now, still handwoven, exported worldwide. From the minute I step on board, I feel at ease with the French flavour of Le Boreal. All 132 cabins have ridiculously comfy beds and pillows. The bathrooms feature full-length glass panels so I can shower while ocean gazing. Facials and fitness are available at the spa and gym, which also take advantage of sea views.

A la carte dining takes on a new meaning in the elegant La Licombe where the passengers, mostly French, dress to the nines as they devour their frogs’ legs and foie gras. On deck six at La Boussole, breakfast, lunch and dinner are enjoyed buffet-style, indoors or beside the pool.

Latin American musicians put us in the mood for arrival in Lima, Peru, a multiethnic nation formed over five centuries before the Spanish Conquest in the 16th Century. Lima has much to intrigue the first time visitor. Barranco is favourable for accommodation so I choose the only real boutique hotel, the very arty Hotel B. Located a few blocks from the Pacific Ocean and a short waterfront walk to the shopping mecca of Miaflores, I pass the Parque del Amor scattered with monuments and mosaics devoted to love.

The ruins of Machu Picchu and the beautiful city of Cusco is somewhere I’ve yearned to visit. At 2400m, after a one hour flight from Lima, I spend two days acclimatising in Cusco and soaking up the pulsating atmosphere in this city of half a million, where the houses climb up the hillsides. The main square explodes with people and Spanish buildings and traditionally clothed women clutch baby alpacas to earn a few cents for tourist photos. Shopping for handmade fabrics and jewellery at the markets is fun and good value.

Machu Picchu is 130km from Cusco so, in a mini-bus, we drive via the Sacred Valley to Ollantaytambo for our scenic and comfortable train trip to overnight in Aguas Calientes. We’re up at 6.30am to beat the first tourist train and catch the shuttle bus up the winding roadside to the crowning jewel of Inca architecture.

Known as ‘the lost city of the Incas’, and perched high in the Andean Cordillera, it remained hidden until 1911 when archaeologist, Hiram Bingham, revealed it to the world. Thought to be built around 1440 and abandoned before the Spanish invasion of 1532, it was used as a secondary palace for the emperor with temples dedicated to Inca divinities in the main courtyard and other annexed buildings for servants looking after up to 750 inhabitants. Surrounded by mountain peaks, Machu Picchu is a city of granite, so grey amongst greenery but overwhelming on first sight. Two days, partly guided and partly exploring alone, was ideal. It still remains shrouded in mystery as the Incas left no trace, either written or oral, to explain their departure. As part of a 325km square nature reserve and a UNESCO World Heritage site since 1983, it’s a magnificent world wonder, worth every second of waiting for trains and boats and planes.

===

Originally published in Get up & Go Magazine Winter 2016


July 28, 2019

Challenge yourself with a 3 Sisters Adventure Trek and help empower the women of Nepal


3 Sisters Guides

By Jennifer Doherty

Looking for a challenge in retirement, then start training for a trekking adventure in Nepal and join one of the many treks offered by the 3 Sisters Adventure Trekking Company.   At the same time, you will be helping to empower the girls and women of Nepal to a better life. 

3 Sisters Adventure Trekking was set up in 1998 by the Chhetri Sisters – Lucky, Dicky & Nicky who are now seeing the benefits of training and empowering a new generation of strong, confident women of Nepal who can contribute to the future of their country.

Soon after setting up the trekking company they set up the NGO, Empowering the Women of Nepal (EWN) to work in partnership to train and encourage more Nepalese women to become self-supportive, independent, decision-makers.

Once trekking operations in Nepal were only led by men, but the very capable, well- trained and experienced guides of 3 Sisters Adventure Trekking truly can make your trek a very special experience.

With our guide Sita Rai, we took on the challenge of the 10 day Annapurna Base Camp (ABC)  trek and soon learned many things from her, how to climb up steps and not be breathless (and in Nepal there are endless stone steps leading up and down the mountains), how to stay motivated when times get tough and how to succeed in your challenge to make it to base camp and feel that great sense of achievement when you do.

For first time trekkers like us who are reasonably fit and walk a lot, we suddenly realized that trekking in the Himalayas is much different stamina wise to a bush-walk in the Blue Mountains.   It’s the challenge of walking day on day for ten days that requires more than just physical strength.

The ten-day Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) trek takes you through some of the most spectacular mountain scenery you could imagine.   We trekked in the month of April which is Springtime in Nepal and the spectacular rhododendron forests were in full bloom and the mountains were swathed in pink & red foliage.

Walking every day is different and exciting, sometimes through farmland, bamboo groves, lush rainforest and then alpine scenery once you reach Macchapuchhre Base Camp (MBC) and finally Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) about two hours further up.  Along the way you can enjoy the beautiful trees and foliage, and pretty wildflowers that bloom right up to Annapurna Base Camp.

Fewa Lake. Pokhara

And you can actually see beautiful birds you’ve never seen before in your life and hear beautiful birdsong every moment of your trek along the Modi Khola river gorge which leads up to Annapurna Sanctuary & Base Camp.  We were delighted to see a brilliant turquoise and black Grandala on the track to Annapurna Base Camp as well as the little forktail, spotted forktail, barbets, bush chats as well as a woodpecker and a cuckoo in the birch forest.  As we called back to the cuckoo it moved from tree to tree following us for more than twenty minutes. We were told by our guide Sita who is an avid birdwatcher that there are 883 species of birds in Nepal.

We were also very lucky to see the silver-grey black-faced langur monkeys who live in the rainforest jumping from tree to tree above our heads.  Trekkers have encountered them sometimes on the track in the forest in a surprise encounter.

The villages along the way where you stay each night are basically a number of lodges and restaurants that cater well to the trekkers passing through.  Most of these have the main dining room where you eat your meals and meet trekkers from all over the world.  The diet is mostly good trekker’s food with lots of carbs like pasta, pizza, rice and curry as well as the Nepalese staple dal bhat which consists of curry, vegetables, lentil soup and rice.  3 Sisters Adventure Trekking provide the backpacks and limit them to 10kg for their staff to carry, and then you just need to carry your daypack with water, protein bars and chocolates for some high energy snacks along the way.

Along the route, there are amazing views of the Himalayas right from the third day at Ghorepani where you can trek up Poon Hill to see the sunrise.  The balcony of our lodges at Tadapani and Chomrong provided sensational views of the Himalayas

But of course the best views are stupendous when you reach the end of the river gorge and enter the Annapurna Sanctuary and Base Camp where you have 360c views of the Himalayas including Annapurna South (7,219m), the world’s tenth highest peak Annapurna 1 (8,091m), Annapurna 3 (7,555m), Machhapuchhre (6,997m) which is well known as Fish Tail mountain, and the Mardi Himal (5,553m).  The massive Annapurna South Glacier carves its way to the edge of basecamp which we were told might have to be moved sometime in the future.

Most treks usually include one night only at Annapurna Base Camp because of limited accommodation, there are four lodges and restaurants based there, but if nothing is available at ABC trekkers stay at Machhapuchhre Base Camp (MBC) and do the 4.30am trek up to Annapurna Base Camp for the sunrise.

Now, to say the Annapurna Base Camp is as easy as ABC would be stretching it, it takes a lot of effort, sometimes up to eight hours a day walking up and down those stone steps but the reward when you reach the Annapurna Sanctuary with the incredible views of the Himalayas are truly spectacular and worth the effort.

For recovery, you can spend a few days in the relaxing surrounds of lakeside Pokhara where you can enjoy boating on the beautiful Phewa Lake, have a massage to ease the muscle pains at the wonderful Middle Path Spa and refuel at top restaurants like Rosemary’s Kitchen and OR2K.

For detailed information on all the treks being offered by 3 Sisters Adventure Trekking visit the website:  www.3sistersadventure.com

You can even donate or volunteer your time or skills with the NGO, Empowering Women of Nepal
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Words and images: Jennifer Doherty

Feature supplied by: www.wtfmedia.com.au


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