GOING ROBINSON CRUSOE IN VANUATU

GOING ROBINSON CRUSOE IN VANUATU
david ellis


SO you wanna go Robinson Crusoe.

There's a little place in the South Pacific that's just what you're
looking for, but that doesn't mean you don't need to do some planning
if you're thinking of really escaping to a people-free paradise.

Because despite no one living on this miniscule 1.5-square kilometre
dot in the ocean that has no electricity, no running water, no roads
and no telephones, your peace could still be shattered by the hordes
storming the beaches.

Over a thousand of them, all keen to share what you thought was the
perfect haven to which to escape the crowds…

It's called Mystery Island, but on the maps you'll find it as Inyeug,
the most southerly island in Vanuatu. And no one lives here because
its traditional owners believe it's haunted at night by spirits.

In the 1850s Australian traders and blackbirders who set up their
wealthy operations on the larger Aneityum Island just across the
channel, chose to live on Inyeug, figuring that if the-then
cannibalistic Aneityum locals were scared of spirits, they'd hardly
attack spooky Inyeug.

Canadian missionaries also built the biggest church for its time in
the South Pacific on Aneityum, with 1000 seats filled on a good
Sunday, or about a third of the island's population.

The missionaries slowly drifted away due to ill-health or waning
years, and neglect and a tsunami put paid to the church; by the late
1800s Aneityum's near-4000 population had been depleted to just 500,
the result of western diseases introduced by the missionaries as well
as the now-gone traders, blackbirders, and whalers before them.

Aneityum and Inyeug faded into obscurity for over a century until in
the 1980s the Australian cruise ship Fairstar started visiting
Vanuatu, making many unsuccessful attempts to land passengers on what
appeared the archetypal South Pacific white sand beach.

Fairstar's owners, the Sitmar Line re-named Inyeug as Mystery Island
on the grounds that because of the unpredictable seas, it was a
mystery whether passengers would ever get ashore there or not, and
after Fairstar was reduced to razor blades, P&O started visiting with
its South Pacific cruise ships out of Sydney and Brisbane.

There's now a landing-jetty on the island, and next year P&O's Pacific
Dawn, Pacific Sun and Pacific Star will visit Mystery Island some
twenty-five times, putting around 45,000 visitors ashore over the year
for a day's swimming and snorkelling the coral reefs, walking the
beaches, or buying fresh fruits, shells, carvings, necklaces and other
souvenirs from the Aneityum people who come across to trade on "ship
days."

Mystery Island also has a basic 2-room coral, bamboo and grass thatch
Guest Bungalow for those seeking that Robinson Crusoe experience: it
has a simple kitchen, covered BBQ, two double beds, kerosene lighting,
and a bush toilet.

And you'll have the whole island virtually to yourself: Aneityum
villagers who may turn-up to occasionally fish, are always gone well
before sunset for fear of those spirits.

It leaves visitors at the guest house to rise in the morning when it
suits, maybe plan the day's activities over last night's lobster catch
grilling on the barbie, beachwalking, snorkelling the reefs, fishing
for lunch and dinner, and pondering what we poor fools are doing back
in "civilisation…"

And with no TV, radio, telephone or internet to find out what's
happening in the rest of the world, when deprivation becomes too much
it's a matter of waiting until someone arrives from Aneityum and
negotiating a lift by canoe to the local guest house and little
tourist office there… or to visit the remains of the historic old
church, bushwalk or mountain-climb.

Guests have to bring all basic food, water and personal needs on the
twice-weekly flight from Port Vila that lands on Mystery Island, whose
grass airstrip was built in 1960 to service the too-mountainous
Aneityum.

Arrangements can also be made to have someone from Aneityum deliver
local market produce, limited trade-store groceries and cook for you
if you want to experience the local fare.

And it's important to check whether during your planned stay, one of
those cruise ships is going to pop up on the horizon and disgorge over
1000 passengers to share the solitude of your island for a day.

For full details contact either Joseph Talo on
vandiscovery@vanuatu.com.vu (or www.vanuatudiscovery.com ;) or Olivier
Fidelio at trek@vanuatu.com.au (www.trekvanuatu.com)

…………………

PHOTO CAPTIONS: MYSTERY Island's 2-bedroom Guest House.

BEACH on Mystery Island that lure's
cruise-goers
by their thousands… but only 25
times a year.

ONCE the biggest church in the
South Pacific, all
that's left of the missionary
church on Aneityum Island.

PHOTOS: Vandiscovery Tours

Trek Vanuatu Tours

A GOOD BREAKFAST STARTS THE DAY WELL

A GOOD BREAKFAST STARTS THE DAY WELL

david ovens

The great Namibian stand-off was close to breaking point.

The scene: At one of a limited number of waterholes shrunken by the
blazing southern African sun.

The players: A small herd of zebra and a pride of nine lions including
a couple of cubs at foot.

The status: The lions are closer to the waterhole than the zebra but
one obviously very thirsty zebra is edging closer to the life-saving
waterhole.

But more of that in a minute...

Of the scores of national parks in eastern and southern Africa that
are home to the Continent's amazing wildlife, Namibia's Etosha
National Park and the Kalahari National Park in neighbouring South
Africa are unique in their hot, arid, desert nature.

They are home to the elephants, lions, antelope and other wildlife
commonly found in other game parks like Kruger in South Africa and the
famed Masai Mara in Kenya, but the desert inhabitants have inherited
minor genetic differences that make them better equipped to exist in
the harsh habitat.

Previously known as South West Africa, Namibia has a chequered history
with involvement of the Portuguese, British and Germans before being
placed under the administrative control of South Africa by the League
of Nations after World War One.

An independent country now, Namibia has a 1400–kilometre coastline but
oddly its rainfall is minimal as the cold Benguela Current's water
temperature of about 10C is too cold to allow much evaporation.

This cold current meeting hot, dry winds causes fog to move over the
desert, sustaining life in an otherwise arid area and leaving only
about two per cent of the country's soil arable – but making for
extraordinarily spectacular scenery of desert moonscapes and deep
canyons.

Hence the stand-off at the Etosha waterhole is a commonly-played-out
drama in wildlife reserves throughout the country.

Unbeknown to our single courageous but parched zebra reaching the
waterhole was not as fraught with danger as his colleagues imagined.

Beside the pride of sluggish lions lazing in the shade was the carcase
of a full grown gemsbok on which the pride had gorged breakfast and
were now, at high noon, resting their swollen bellies in the shade and
not the least bit interested in zebra for lunch.

But it was great theatre for the group of tourists taking in the scene
from an open-topped Land Rover about 30 metres away and watching the
zebra one by one venture to the prized waterhole.

Such drama is enhanced by the proximity within which vehicles can
safely approach wildlife throughout southern Africa. The animals are
thoroughly accustomed to being approached by vehicles and have come to
regard them as no threat as they go about their daily habits of
feeding, fighting and mating.

The animals recognise and do not fear the profile of the vehicles.
However, if someone should stand up quickly and break the profile of
the vehicle or make sudden sharp noises or move quickly in brightly
coloured clothing whilst watching animals at close range (predators,
elephants and the feared Cape buffalo in particular,) an afternoon's
game-viewing has been know to turn sour as frightened animals react in
the only way they know – attack.

But there were no attacks at the Etosha waterhole that autumn day. One
by one the zebras gradually plucked up courage to edge past the lions,
although there were some skittish moments as the odd lion raised a
sleepy head to sight the passers-by. Another day it could have been so
different.

To join an Africa safari, specialist in holidays to the country, Bench
International has a choice of holiday packages in Namibia ranging from
four-days to Etosha (costing around $1055) that can be combined with
other arrangements in the region, to a 10-might Classic Namibia Safari
(costing from $4150) that includes Etosha, the capital Windhoek, the
German enclave of Swakopmund on the coast and the Namib Desert.

There are direct flights from Australia to Johannesburg for connection
to Windhoek. Details from Bench International, phone 1800-221-451 or
visit

www.benchinternational.com.au

……………………

PHOTO CAPTIONS:

PARCHED waterhole in Namibia, scene of the great African stand-off.

A LIONESS with cubs at a desert waterhole.

OSTRICHES find little joy at this near-dry puddle.

- Photos: David Baker

ROMAN HOLIDAY – STAYING AT ONE’S USUAL PALACE

ROMAN HOLIDAY – STAYING AT ONE'S USUAL PALACE

david ellis

THERE's something rather nice about telling mates you're heading off to Rome, and rather than telling them you'll be staying at your usual pub, saying you'll be staying at your usual palace.

And for good measure, mentioning that your palace once starred in one of the big silver screen's biggest hits.

We're talking about the classic Sofitel Roma, a quiet haven of tranquility away from the frenetic main streets of Rome.

And yet while away from those main streets where it appears that traffic-wise, anything rules, the hotel is remarkably central: the famous Via Veneto shopping and dining boulevard (on which if you have to ask the price because its not in the window, it means you can't afford it,) is just two short blocks away, and the Spanish Steps an easy 10- to 15-minutes stroll – depending on your propensity for window shopping.

And a stone's throw away are the 80ha (148 acre) parklands of Villa Borghese, a one-time vineyard that in 1605 Cardinal Scipione Borghese turned into a park that's today complete with an artificial lake and an island with a small Ionic temple.

The Park was acquired by Rome City in 1903 and opened to the public, and is also home to several museums, an ampitheatre for concerts and a botanical garden.

The Sofitel Roma overlooks the Park from many of its rooms, and was originally built as a palace in the late 17th century by the noble family Ludovisi Boncompagni. If that's not enough to have your mates salivating, toss in for conversation that it was here that some of the scenes were shot for Federico Fellini's legendary 1960's classic la Dolce Vita.

The Boncompagni family sold out and in 1890 their palace was converted into a hotel, the Albergo Boston: by the 1930s and '40s it was the place to be seen in Rome, and gathering point for many Italian actors, film makers and writers who spent long hours ruminating over coffee and stronger stuff.

Sofitel completely renovated the hotel in 2000 in Roman Neo-classical style, putting in a marble lobby, mosaic floors in many of the hotel's public areas, large frescoes and huge statues, and completely refurbishing all rooms with a further quarry-load of marble.

Yet amazingly amongst all this, there's a bar that gives one the feeling they've been time-warped to rural England, something the hotel is very proud of.

There is much polished timber here, an adjoining almost-Cotswold library with porcelain hunting dogs with catch in mouth, a fire place and exposed timber ceiling beams, that all make for a delightful venue to enjoy drinks and light meals; there's also a separate lounge area.

And although it is boutique with just 109 rooms and four penthouse suites, the Sofitel Roma must have been an interior decorator's nightmare: no two rooms are the same size, and are a multiplicity of shapes – because when designed as a palace, rooms were created for the status of those who would occupy them… the noble Boncompagni family themselves, and the varying hierarchy of their more-than 100 butlers, maids, chefs, coachmen, grooms and general servants who bunked-up two or three to a room.

Yet all now-air-conditioned rooms are refreshingly spacious with silky-brocade curtains and bedspreads, desks and chairs of polished briar wood, marble bathrooms, Roger & Gallet toiletries, internet point, double phone lines and pay- and satellite-TV.

The four penthouse suites have separate bedrooms with king bed, over-size bathrooms, sitting area with desk and internet point, chaise longue, lounge chair, guest's powder room… and a large terrace with views of historic landmarks almost close enough to stretch out and touch.

The hotel also has a vast rooftop terrace open to all guests until 10pm; many take drinks and room service meals here to enjoy the sunsets and million-dollar views of Rome's major landmarks.

For dining the Antico Boston Restaurant (in what were once the royal stables,) is open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, with lunch and dinner menus featuring Italian specialties.

Breakfasts are huge continental buffet affairs (included in the room price) with fruits, cereals, over a half dozen varieties of fresh-baked breads and rolls, eggs, cooked ham, cold meats, ham off the bone, cheeses, olives, muffins, cakes and pastries.

The Sofitel Roma is listed among The Historical Places of Italy; rooms start from around Euro-250 per night. See travel agents or check-out www.accorhotels.com

………………….

PHOTO CAPTIONS:

ROME skyline from a suite at the Sofitel Roma… you can almost stretch out and touch historic landmarks.

ONE of the hotel's four penthouse suites.

HOTEL Sofitel Roma's English-style library adjacent to the bar.

TUCK in… the hotel's lavish breakfast buffet.

………………………

Why Green is the New Black

Everywhere you turn lately, it seems, people are talking about climate change, global warming, carbon offsets and lower emissions. How can you take off on your next holiday with a minimum impact? What’s fact and what’ fluff? Roderick Eime looks at the arguments.

It would appear that even the most resistant critics have bent to the notion that the burning of fossil fuels is at least contributing to the climate change sweeping our planet. The jury is divided on whether it is the primary contributing cause or just part of an overall planet-wide cycle. Either way, pouring carbon dioxide from burning fossil fuels like oil and coal and other greenhouse gases like methane and carbon monoxide is accelerating the process.

To highlight this issue, the government has launched the website, www.greenhouse.gov.au, with lots of “How You Can Help” tips, including transportation.

It’s no surprise that motor vehicles feature highly on the list of greenhouse gas emitters, and car usage is something we can influence on a personal level. In reality, a great many of us will fly to our next holiday destination, either domestically or internationally, so what can we do to lessen this impact?

Offset Your Carbon Consumption

The very active minister responsible, The Hon. Malcolm Turnbull MP, recently lauded the move by Virgin Blue to offer carbon offset packages to passengers concerned about their own “carbon footprint”.

“Virgin Blue customers can now go online and choose to make each leg of their air journey carbon neutral for an average of a dollar a trip,” the minister said.

“Australian air passengers have never before been able to directly offset emissions from their flights. This is a first for the Australian aviation industry and an important step for the transport sector.

“Air commuters choosing to offset their emissions will be able to make a difference to Australia’s greenhouse gas emissions of which the total domestic air aviation transport sector currently contributes almost five megatonnes.”

When we travel, whether it is by road, rail, sea or air, our desire for sightseeing and leisure is adding to the problem, especially when it involves long distance travel.


Can You Travel with Carbon Neutrality?

Environmentally responsible and sensitive travel is not a new phenomenon, but has certainly become a more widely recognised alternative in the last few years. Apart from travellers seeking out new and exciting destinations with an emphasis on nature and culture, travel operators are now enticing environmentally conscious travellers with taglines extolling their low carbon emissions and offset policies.

One of that rapidly growing number of tourism businesses claiming “carbon neutral” is Ecoventura, who operate a small fleet of expedition yachts in the Galápagos. This iconic group of islands west of Ecuador is one of the most precarious eco-systems anywhere on the planet and has attracted all sorts of attention over the decades, including poaching, over-fishing and habit degradation from human intervention.

The CarbonNeutral Company, one of the new wave of climate monitoring companies, has calculated the amount of carbon dioxide that Ecoventura emits and has come up with a number of projects to counteract those effects including funding for reforestation in Chiapas, sustainable energy projects in Sri Lanka and India, and methane recapture in the US.

Kerry Lorimer, an avid eco-conscious traveller and author of the Lonely Planet guidebook, “Code Green” offers this advice:

“Since virtually any type of motorised transport emits greenhouse gases, the obvious thing is to go for non-motorised transport such as walking, riding a bike or catching a train. Using public transport is another obvious way to lessen your personal emissions.

“Jet travel has had a bad rap for its high levels of greenhouse emissions. Look to the shorthaul and stay local where practical. If all you want to do on holiday is lie on a beach, do you really need to fly to the other side of the world to do it? For business, do you really need to have a face-to-face meeting? Could a video conference get the job done?

“And when you do fly, consider off-setting your emissions via organisations such as climatefriendly.com. Their websites have carbon calculators that can compute the amount of emissions for your kilometres travelled. You can then pay to 'offset' these through projects such as tree planting and community development projects.”


Look for Low Carbon/Low Impact Destinations

“Do your bit for domestic tourism - choose a holiday destination close to home!” adds Kerry Lorimer, “We have some of the most amazing travel experiences in the world, right in our own backyard, yet many Australians think first of an overseas destination when planning a holiday.

“Walking or trekking holidays are one of the best ways to keep your carbon emissions to a minimum. Peregrine, for example, offers a range of trekking holidays around the world - close to home there are treks in Borneo, PNG and the Himalaya. The company is currently assessing all of its operations and has pledged that all its tours will be carbon neutral by 2009. Trekking is also a great way to get to know the locals and to reach views and villages that are otherwise inaccessible. There's only one way to the top of a Himalayan peak!”

Although it may be difficult to label any single destination as “carbon neutral”, you can quickly determine your impact by assessing a few simple factors:

• How much carbon do I create to get there? Family travel and group travel in general is more efficient as resources are shared.
• How much carbon will I burn when I’m there? Will I walk around or drive? Will I be using lots of air-conditioning or camping? Will my activities be responsible?

For example, a camping holiday with your family, not far from home is a great idea. Look at some of our great national parks like Shark Bay or the glorious World Heritage-listed Bungle Bungles. Folks come from all over the world to see these places!

Beware the ‘Greenwash’

Kris Madden of the Eco Media Group, is a consultant to government and industry on eco- and sustainable tourism, warns not to fall into a green trap.

“Although I acknowledge the contribution to global warming that mechanised travel can make, I’m still a little suspicious of all these carbon offset schemes popping up,“ warns Kris, “there is no framework of operation, no benchmarks and no real checks and balances under which these schemes operate. One has to wonder whether there is a real environmental benefit from some of them, or whether it’s just ‘greenwash’.”

The ‘greenwash’ to which Kris refers is the sceptics’ appraisal of these efforts to create a greener environment. In the competition for consumer sentiment, true carbon consciousness and fake green window dressing will be difficult to isolate as more and more businesses fly the “carbon neutral” flag.

“Sure, it’s better than doing nothing and it certainly raises awareness of the problem, but I fear it is more important for some of the worst offenders to be seen to be reacting to the climate change issue than actually making a difference.”

Tree planting is one example. Although reforestation is a critical activity in many areas, trees planted today will take at least twenty years to reach maturity. The critics will argue that attention needs to be directed at “now” schemes. What can we do to offset emissions today?

Think Globally, Act Locally

Kris reminds us that the popular catch phrase is just as important, if not more so.

“People can really make a big difference if they modify their own behaviour on a micro scale. Walk when they don’t need to drive, car pool and generally use less energy, especially around the home. It’s like earning your own offset credits and you can feel less guilty when you do decide to travel.”


Preserve Culture and the Environment

Responsible and sustainable travel is not just about how much fuel you burn, it’s about how you treat the locals and how much cultural damage you do without even realising it. Genuine travel experiences are quickly vanishing in the rapidly globalising world and some of the lowest emission travel like walking, canoeing and cycling will enable us to maximise the few remaining truly enriching experiences.

Many experts believe our Great Barrier Reef will only exist for the next generation or two. Already it’s showing signs of decay from the small rise in water temperature and it’s one destination you should see soon.

The Arctic and Antarctic is thawing. Vast glaciers are collapsing at a frightening rate and they will soon be a past feature of the pre-climate change planet unless we turn the tide. These are certainly the predictions of the scare mongers, and can we really challenge these gloomy forecasts?

Be Informed and Make Your Own Judgement

Clearly there will be a lot of “smoke and mirrors” in this climate and carbon debate with some entrepreneurs seeing an opportunity to be the new emissions trading millionaires. If you feel inclined to contribute or invest in these schemes, then do so carefully. The ultimate responsibility, however, falls with the individual. Do you really need to run a computer simulation of your intended journey to visualise your impact? Or can it be boiled down to simple common sense and more considerate and simple day-to-day living? You make the call. It’s your planet.

Some quick calculations by The CarbonNeutral Company [www.carbonneutral.com]:

Approximately one tonne of emissions is produced by 5000 kilometres of driving in an over 2.0 litre car.

The same amount of travel on commuter trains produces just 200kg.

A direct flight from Perth to London (14500km) produces 1.6 tonnes of emissions per person.

So, if you took the train every day to work instead of driving, you could earn enough carbon credits to offset your flight. For those who can’t do without their car, the company offers “offset packages” up to A$50 that come in a ribbon bound folder complete with certificate. The money is channelled to community projects and energy-efficient technology development.

Low Impact Destinations

• Shark Bay: Gorgeous swimming, corals and whale shark and dolphin encounters.
• Purnululu National Park: Home of the Bungle Bungle Ranges. There’s great hiking and canoeing in this region.
• Kimberely Coast Cruises: Consider a small ship cruise along this spectacular and remote coast.
• Great Barrier Reef: The best snorkeling and scuba diving in the world.
• Tasmania: Arguably the hiking and trekking capital of Australia. Some great white water rafting too.
• New Zealand: Our near neighbour offers an enriching cultural and environmental contrast.
• Antarctica: The big one. You can’t fly there (yet) and it’s the ultimate ‘tread lightly’ experience.

Adventure Quest

Committed adventure cruiser, Roderick Eime, shares some insight on one of the fastest growing travel sectors.

Flick through the pages of any magazine or newspaper and you’re confronted with an overflowing smorgasbord of cruise travel possibilities. If this explosion of romantic ocean-going itineraries leads you to think cruise travel is on the up, then you are right. Cruising is on a rocket. But look closer and you’ll find, sometimes tacked on the end of a larger ad, adventure possibilities you may never have dreamed of.

Sure, everybody knows the irresistible, fairytale allure of the South Pacific, Caribbean and Mediterranean, but what about the frozen reaches of the Antarctic, the wilds of the Kimberley or the tiny atolls of Melanesia? Within this huge category of ‘cruising’ there exists a sometimes overlooked subset generally referred to as “adventure and expedition cruising”.

Once almost a secret society among wealthy adventurers and well-heeled thrillseekers, this type of travel has ignited the imagination of those looking beyond regular, packaged products. Travel marketers and advertising pundits are calling this emerging genre “experiential and transformational” travel where the journey is all about delivering uplifting and life-changing experiences.

Ships plying these waters can vary enormously too. They range from luxury pocket cruise-liners, replete with every creature comfort and a “quick response” crew ready to fulfill your every whim, through to refurbished ex-Soviet spy vessels. These Russian vessels are the ones largely responsible for opening up the frozen extremes of our planet and include mighty icebreakers and hardy oceanographic ships built to operate in the most challenging conditions.

At the softer end, vessels like the Australian-based Orion and Oceanic Discoverer, world-travelling Seadream I and II and Seabourne are examples of ships constructed to deliver a high, even opulent, level of luxury and still retain the flexibility and versatility of an expedition yacht. Orion, for example, not only cruises the rich tropical backwaters of PNG and the Kimberley, but ventures to the most remote reaches of Antarctica, well below the ‘circle’ and into the exclusive realm of Emperor Penguins and historic explorers.

What is ‘Expedition Cruising’?

The term ‘expedition’ has been more recently attached to cruise products in an attempt to give them a romantic, out-of-the-way appeal. The danger is that the original, authentic expedition cruise concept is being diluted and misconstrued.

A true expedition cruise consists of a voyage plan and itinerary that has inbuilt flexibility and redundancy. In the capricious Antarctic waters, all activities and sight-seeing is weather and ice dependent. Passengers are reminded of this time and time again and it is quite common for completely unscheduled landings to take place in fallback planning. The same exists in tropical waters.

As weather, currents and tides play out in the dense South Sea archipelagos, an expedition leader and his/her captain must ‘massage’ the itinerary constantly to capitalise on emerging opportunities and avoid those closing out.

If you are a devotee of the well-managed, big cruise ship experience, you may find adventure and expedition cruising unsettling. Others will crave that element of the unexpected.

A proper expedition vessel is more than just a smaller ship with zodiacs piled up on deck. A true expedition vessel is designed for the intended conditions and equipped to deliver the experience upon arrival, whether it be weaving through disintegrating pack ice or creeping past vivid coral atolls.

Passengers aboard expedition vessels have come to expect expert guides and lecturers to help them interpret the rich cultural and natural histories these exotic destinations deliver. Academics, researchers and authors are common both as lecturers and passengers, adding to healthy discussions and enrapturing dinner conversation.

Examine your intended product carefully and ask lots of questions, your consultant will be able to answer them.

Popular Adventure Cruising Destinations

Antarctica

This iconic destination is the epitome of the adventure destination. Sailing “off the map” and to areas only discovered within the last hundred years, makes Antarctica the must-do itinerary for all serious expedition cruisers.

Expeditions to the Great Southern Land take several forms. The simplest are short itineraries of perhaps a week to ten days to the Antarctic Peninsula from Ushuaia at the very bottom of South America. More ambitious journeys will be by icebreaker, way below the Antarctic Circle to places like McMurdo Sound and Commonwealth Bay.

Companies offering Antarctic itineraries include Adventure Associates, World Expeditions, Orion, Explorer and Heritage Expeditions.

The Arctic

A perfect complement to your southerly expedition, a trip to the Arctic can be as simple as a cruise to Iceland or Greenland or as heroic as a nuclear icebreaker to the North Pole itself.

Recent tales about retreating glaciers and thinning ice pack have created some urgency for visitors to this region as they attempt to see the great Polar Bear in its diminishing natural environment.

Apart from the North Pole, the great North-West Passage across the top of Canada is a true odyssey only a few will ever experience.

Companies offering Arctic expeditions include, Quark Expeditions, Oceanwide, ecruising.travel, Peregrine and World Expeditions

The Galapagos Islands

Charles Darwin’s evolutionary playground is a great drawcard for those with a penchant for warmer climes. A short flight from Ecuador, most visitors will spend about a week cruising amongst the many islands in this unique archipelago.

Following in the footsteps of David Attenborough, visitors will discover the crazy wildlife that makes this place so special. The sinister marine iguanas, the fierce land iguanas, the delightful giant tortoises and the many strange birds and plants make this place a naturalist’s wonder.

See Ecoventura or www.igtoa.org for a list of accredited oprators.

The Kimberley and Top End

The rugged and remote regions of Western Australia’s Kimberley and NT’s Top End were the ideal choice for expedition cruising in our region. Incredible rock formations, abundant birdlife, rich Aboriginal culture and weird natural phenomenon like the horizontal waterfalls attract thousands of visitors every year. Most cruise companies book out a year ahead, such is the popularity of this northern region.

True North, Orion and Coral Princess are the acknowledged experts in the Kimberley.

Papua New Guinea

Often the subject of bad publicity, the sublime islands of the Bismarck and Solomon Seas exhibit none of the rough lawlessness found elsewhere on the mainland. Expedition cruise companies are falling all over themselves to create itineraries in this region and the PNG Tourism authorities are extremely supportive of these initiatives.

New Ireland, New Britain, the legendary Trobriands and the mighty Sepik River are the key destinations on most itineraries. The wild frontiers of PNG, so close by, perfectly fit the description of “transformational” travel.

The growing list of operators include True North, Orion and Coral Princess.


Others:

Tasmania

Consider the supremely relaxing Gordon River cruises that explore the incredible and remote UNESCO World Heritage areas of Western Tasmania. Currently no overnight products are available, yet day trips leave regularly from Strahan.

See Orion for comprehensive live-aboard itineraries

Amazon

This huge river can accommodate cruise ships many hundreds of miles upstream. See the disappearing Amazon Basin jungles, visit remote indian tribes and mourn the vanishing landscapes.

For a wide range of vessels and options, see Adventure Associates

Russian Far East

Several companies are experimenting with itineraries in the area immediately north of Japan through to the Bering Strait in Siberia. Characterised by isolated ecosystems and volcanic activity on the western perimeter of the Pacific “Ring of Fire”, these voyages will always be exclusive.

Heritage Expeditions and Quark offer exclusive itineraries in this seldom visited area.

Great Barrier Reef

Another threatened eco system, Queensland’s Great Barrier Reef has attracted millions of visitors over the years and continues to do so. Be quick, the reef will never be as good as it is now.

Coral Princess Cruises of Cairns deliver the widest range of Great Barrier Reef itineraries. Captain Cook Cruises are also prominent in the region. Further south, Fantasea Cruises operate from the Whitsundays.

New Zealand

The brilliant scenery and harbours all around New Zealand are attracting adventure cruise companies with ambitious itineraries, including Coral Princess’s semi-circumnavigation and Bay of Islands products.

Orion will join Coral Princess operating in New Zealand beginning 2008.


Expedition and Adventure Cruise Operators

Here is a selection of vessels and itineraries within easy reach of Australia or New Zealand, often by simple domestic airline link.

Company: Captain Cook Cruises
Website: www.captaincook.com.au

Company: Orion Expedition Cruises Pty Ltd
Website: www.orioncruises.com.au
Phone: 1300 361 012

Company: Coral Princess Cruises
Website: www.coralprincess.com.au
Phone: 1800 079 545

Company: North Star Cruises
Website: www.northstarcruises.com.au
Telephone: (+61 8) 91921 829

Company: Fantasea
Website: www.fantaseaammari.com
Phone: 1800 662 786

To the Four Corners …

Company: Lindblad Expeditions
www.expeditions.com

Company: Quark Expeditions
www.quarkexpeditions.com
Australian Rep: Adventure Associates

Company: Explorer Cruises
www.explorer2cruises.com
Australian Rep: ecruising.travel

Company: Ecoventura
www.ecoventura.com

Company: Heritage Expeditions
www.heritage-expeditions.com

Company: Oceanwide Expeditions
www.oceanwide-expeditions.com

Company: Polar Quest
www.polar-quest.com

Here is a list of some of Australia’s most experienced and respected companies:

ADVENTURE ASSOCIATES Pty Ltd
Level 7, 12-14 O'Connell Street, Sydney NSW 2000 Australia
GPO Box 4414, Sydney NSW 2001 Australia
Ph: (+61 2) 8916 3000 - Fax: (+61 2) 8916 3090 - Toll Free (Australia) 1 800 222 141
Web: www.adventureassociates.com

Aurora Expeditions

TELEPHONE +61-2-9252-1033
FAX +61-2-9252-1373
FREECALL (within Australia) 1-800-637-688
EMAIL auroraex@auroraexpeditions.com.au
Website: www.auroraexpeditions.com.au
182 Cumberland Street
The Rocks, NSW 2000

ecruising.travel
Level 9
64 Castlereagh Street
Sydney NSW 2000
Web: www.ecruising.travel
1300 369 848

Peregrine Adventures (with offices or reps in most states)

380 Lonsdale Street
Melbourne VIC 3000
Tel 1300 85 44 44 (within Australia) or +61 3 8601 4444 (outside Australia)
Fax (03) 8601 4344
Email websales@peregrineadventures.com
Website: www.peregrine.net.au

World Expeditions (with offices in most states)

Level 5, 71 York St,
Sydney NSW 2000
Toll Free. 1300 720 000
Email: enquiries@worldexpeditions.com.au
Website: www.worldexpeditions.com

TIGER CHOOSES MELBOURNE AIRPORT

Tiger Airways has selected Melbourne Airport as the base for its Australian operations.

Tiger Airways’ decision is a major coup for Melbourne and Victoria, with Melbourne selected after detailed discussions between Tiger Airways and the airports and governments of a number of Australian states and territories.

The airline will base its Australian domestic operations in Melbourne – providing a significant new addition to the 12,000 staff currently located within the Melbourne Airport precinct.

Acting Melbourne Airport CEO Kirby Clark said Tiger’s decision was a testament to the growth opportunities Melbourne had presented to the low-cost airline, along with a strong ‘Team Victoria’ approach the Victorian Government and Melbourne Airport had taken with their proposal.

“We are delighted that Tiger has selected Melbourne Airport as the base for its Australian operations. This is a major win for this airport, this city, and this state,” said Mr Clark. “Tiger being based in Melbourne will greatly support Victoria’s sporting and cultural events calendar, which is conversely a key reason it chose to base its domestic operations here,” he said.

“Tiger’s decision reflects on the innovative, cooperative approach we take to working with our current and potential partners. We continue to provide stable low international and domestic airline charges – the lowest of any airport in Australia,” he said.

“We will now work closely with Tiger Airways to prepare for the commencement of the airline’s low-cost operations, which will be supported by our excellent car parking and hotels, and only 20kms from the CBD,” said Mr Clark.

In speaking of the reasons Tiger selected Melbourne, Tiger Airways CEO Mr Tony Davis said: “Tiger was particularly attracted to Victoria because of its skills base, the flexibility offered by Melbourne Airport, the State’s approach to marketing and major events, as well as the positive approach to the negotiations by the State Government and Melbourne Airport.”

“We are a proven low cost carrier with Tiger-like plans for Australia and I am sure the Victorian and Australian public will welcome the competition we will bring to the market,” said Mr Davis.

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Melbourne T2

BANDOLEROS THE ROBIN HOODS OF SPAIN

Bandolero by Steban Marquez

david ovens

ITS little wonder Spain’s once infamous bandoleros decided to call the southern town of Ronda home: perched on an unusual outcrop of rock in a basin surrounded by plains in turn ringed by rugged mountain ranges, it was ideal territory for bandits intent on ambushing unwary wealthy travellers, and relieving them of a little of their good fortune.

One of the country’s oldest towns with its origins associated with the Paleolithic era’s Cave of Pileta, Ronda is today a living relic of Andalusian stone-age art, but such is often lost on visitors more interested in tales of the bandits who roamed the region from as early as the Ninth Century.

And bullfighting.

Despite its early association with the Iberians and Bastulo Celts, followed by Romans, Byzantine Greeks, Moors and Muslims before being re-claimed by the Catholic Monarchs, most locals more happily oblige visitors and talk about those bandoleros who holed up in the surrounding Andalusian sierras, ravines, caves and hidden valleys than they do about ethnic and Paleolithic history.

By Steban Marquez

During the Ninth Century these bandits were the centre of widespread opposition to Cordoban rule, and were still active as late as the early part of the 20th Century.

But it was in the 19th century that they really came to prominence, preying on the rich and becoming folk heroes. The most famous was El Tempranillo who at the age of 22 claimed “The king may reign Spain, but in the sierra I do,” and demanded an ounce of gold for each vehicle that crossed his domain.

As part of the Andalusian folklore the bandoleros were both hated as murderous gangs of cut-throats, and loved for the way they emerged from their lairs to rob the rich and powerful, or simply extract payment for safe passage, passing their “winnings” to the poor and powerless – kind of Spanish equivalents to Robin Hood.

But far from regarding themselves as romantic, the bandoleros were merely trying to survive in a society whose blatant social injustice nurtured banditry; most were driven by misfortune into a life of crime and living on the periphery of society, and their story is told in one of Ronda’s most popular tourist attractions, the Museo del Bandolero (Bandits Museum)

The town also boasts one of the oldest bullrings in Spain that dates from 1785. It was here that the legendary matador, Pedro Romero climbed down from his horse to fight a bull on foot, and so set the pattern for contemporary Spanish bullfighting. His costumes can be admired in another of Rondo’s variety of museums that are dedicated to such things as hunting, the arts and Ronda’s history, while the 16th century Mondragon Palace and the Moorish King’s House are also worth visiting.

And during the Feria de Pedro Romero in the second week of every September, bullfighters in replica century-old costumes draw enthusiasts from all over Spain.

Ronda is also famous for its dramatic escarpments and views, and for the deep El Tajo gorge that carries the River Guadalevín through its centre; the 18th century Puente Nuevo (New Bridge) that straddles the 100m chasm below, offers unparalleled views out to the Serranía de Ronda mountains.

The town’s historic quarter with a medieval layout reminiscent of the Arab age, is scattered to the south of the river, while the more modern town that emerged after the 16th century, lays is to the north.

Several other bridges unite the two halves of one of the most interesting towns on the route of the Whitewashed Villages, in the heart of the Ronda hills, only a few kilometres from the Costa del Sol.

A day touring through these quaint villages is highly rewarding but is made more enjoyable with a bit of research in some of Ronda’s interesting museums and palaces.

(Visiting Ronda and its neighbouring Whitewashed Villages is part of a 10-day Moorish Spain to Marrakech journey by train and ferry with Adventure World operator Explore Worldwide. The itinerary begins in Malaga in Andalusian Spain and travels to Ronda, Tangiers, Fes, Rabat and Marrakech.

The cost of $1265 includes all train, ferry and road transport, overnight hotel accommodation and breakfast and daily sightseeing tours through Moorish Spain, Tangiers and other Moroccan cities. For more details phone 1300-302-591 or visit www.adventureworld.com.au )