Perched high in the Pyrenees between France and Spain, Andorra is famous for its high-altitude ski resorts, duty-free shopping, and dramatic mountain landscapes. Globetrotting Ros Freeman explores one of the tiniest countries in the world.
In the town centre of Andorra La Vella is a five-metre-high bronze statue, Salvatore Dali’s melting pocket watch ‘The Nobility of Time’. It’s generally thought that Dali’s melting timepieces are a rejection of the idea that time is rigid. Which for us, is quite appropriate, as we’ve no planes, trains or buses to catch; we can take it easy in this relaxed, laid-back little city.
Wedged in between Spain and France is the tiny country of Andorra. It’s famed for its dramatic mountain landscapes, popular for hiking in summer and renowned for skiing in winter. Jane and I are here for three days, a relaxing respite from the rigours of travel.
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| Noblesse du Temps, downtown Andorra la Vella |
Andorra is a country with many quirks and idiosyncrasies. The country has one of the world’s highest life expectancies. This is surprising. At every doorway there’s someone smoking, every outdoor restaurant is a fog of smoke, and the many duty-free shops are filled with alcohol. Neither seem to be a deterrent to longevity. Duty-free shops provide a major lure to Andorra with many people crossing the border to make purchases. Andorra’s population might be a conservative 90,000, however it is the most visited country per capita in the world. Each year up to 10 million tourists arrive. Many come for Andorra’s superior ski slopes, however most come for the duty-free shopping and the cheaper fuel prices. About 80% of Andorra’s GDP is generated by tourism.
The country is the only one in the world that is a co-principality, ruled jointly by two princes; the President of France, currently Emmanuel Macron, and the Bishop Of Urgell. Urgell is a province in northern Spain, however the Bishop is appointed by the Vatican.
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| Strolling in the old town |
The pace of Andorra is slow and relaxed. We wound our way downhill to the centre of town, dipping into duty-free shops for a spray of perfume and indulging in a spot of retail therapy. The centre of the city is modern, the Puente de Paris footbridge a backdrop to Dali’s clock. A nearby installation, ‘The Seven Poets’, represents the seven parishes of Andorra La Vella. At night they are colourfully illuminated. Up in the old town ancient stone buildings are surrounded by colourful gardens. The old Romanesque church, Sant Esteve, is beautiful in its simplicity.
Our hotel has an old world charm about it. It also has a rooftop swimming pool. How wonderful to do laps amidst towering mountains. Church bells chime, and in the foothills of the Pyrenees three roosters try to out-crow each other. An extraordinary sound so close to Andorra La Vella, Europe’s highest capital city.
In 2011 the Parliament building moved to a new location. The old parliament building, Casa de la Vall, became a museum. There we met young Patrick who enthusiastically shared Andorra’s complex history with us. Catalan is the predominant language in Andorra, though the locals also speak Spanish, French and Portuguese.
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| Colour in the new town |
On our last day, the waitress at our favourite café asked us if we’d like to make a wish. Wishes were written on cards and then tied to a tree at the front of the café. Summer solstice was approaching, which coincided with the feast of St. John the Baptist. On that night, the wishes of Andorra were burnt, part of a spectacular display and a joyous celebration.
Our batteries recharged, we packed our bags and bid adéu, adios and au revoir to Andorra. Andorra doesn’t have an airport, or a railway system, so we climbed aboard our coach and wound our way down the mountain. We enjoyed Andorra’s slow pace and just like Dali’s melting clock, we enjoyed the luxury of time.
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| Jane at the Wishing Tree |
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Ros Freeman travelled independently and at her own expense, but would not go anywhere unless Kirsty at Flight Centre Eastgardens booked her flights. ,
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Disguised as a mild-mannered corporate employee, Ros lives a secret life as a world traveller and adventurer amassing a count of more than 150 UN-recognised countries. |
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