Cruising in New Zealand is an often-overlooked pleasure. But it is also a reminder of past events.
It was the first day of school for little 5-year-old Gordon Vogtherr and a day he’ll never forget as long as he lived.
Most of us have cheerful memories of kissing mother at the gate, perhaps a little tear mixed with a tincture of anxiety. But for young Gordon, it was almost his last day of school.
It was almost 11 o’clock and the children in their crisp new uniforms were still excited when the morning recess bell rang. But almost as soon as the last clang sounded, the world changed forever for these innocent youngsters.
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| Looking more like Europe in WWII, the damage in Napier was extensive. (Napier City Council) |
On 3rd February, 1931, the quaint provincial town of Napier on New Zealand’s North Island shook as if the devil had it in his grasp. An earthquake that would later be measured at nearly 8 on the Richter Scale almost levelled the the entire city. What little left standing was almost immediately consumed by a furious fire storm fed by an easterly wind leaving a desecrated landscape reminiscent of European cities at the end of WWII.
"People everywhere were running, heading for home. When I got out of the school I started running and I didn't stop until I got home," recalled 98-year-old Gordon on the anniversary of the quake, “you don’t forget it.”
In all, 256 people lost their lives in both Napier and Hastings in the Hawkes Bay region.
If there was a silver lining resulting from the quake, it was that Napier was quickly rebuilt to much higher codes than ever before. Despite the depression, Napier was optimistically reconstructed in the dominant architectural style of the time, Art Deco, creating a time capsule of civil engineering that has won accolades the world over and earned it the moniker, Art Deco Capital of the World.
Beyond the city limits, the violent 3m uplift drained much of Ahuriri Lagoon, creating viable land quickly utilised for farms, industry, housing and even an airport.
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| Locals bring out their immaculate vintage cars to greet HAL Noordam in Napier (RE) |
It then comes as no surprise that Napier has become one of the most popular cruise ship ports in all of New Zealand. Even a simple stroll around the central shopping district is a delight as one enjoys the delights of this unique city, freeze-framed in the jazz era with its offices, shops and civic buildings all seemingly ready to burst into a rendition of the famous Charleston.
Just two nights out from our departure from Auckland, Napier is already a standout feature of our 12-night itinerary aboard Holland America’s 1900-guest Noordam. And there’s tough competition from steamy Rotorua, seaside Timaru, regal Dunedin and the grandeur of Fiordland’s imperious vistas.
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| Tourist Information Centre and Speight's Ale House, Timaru NZ (RE) |
The balance of our itinerary took us to Tauranga, Timaru, Christchurch and Dunedin, where an array of enriching shore excursions were offered. Unfortunately, Fiordland was bypassed due to an impending storm, an occurrence I learn is not uncommon for cruises in southern extremes.
On our semi-circumnavigation of the Land of the Long White Cloud, we’re in the company of ships from Celebrity, Azamara, Silversea, Princess and Seabourn among others enjoying the peculiar pleasures of ancient and modern Aotearoa. Such activity underscores the popularity of New Zealand and reinforces its position as a destination punching way above its weight in the global tourism stakes.
In fact, as soon as Noordam returns us to Sydney, she sets sail on an encore performance with a full house of adoring cruise fans with at least the same enthusiasm as those in our company.
It will come as no surprise to learn that competition among operators in their respective cruise segments is red hot just a couple years out from the crippling COVID hiatus. Right now. pent-up demand may be filling virtually every vessel and yet even lines with such enviable reputations as Holland America Line (HAL) cannot afford to rest on their laurels which, in the case of HAL, stretch back some 150 years.
HAL’s Noordam is one of nine 290m Vista-class mid-sized cruise ships currently in service with Carnival family lines, including Cunard, Carnival, P&O and Costa. Built by Italy’s famous Fincantieri shipyard, the design features economical diesel-electric Azipod propulsion, state-of-the-art pollution control and waste management as well as 11 passenger decks and a high proportion (85%) of cabins with ocean views. Two thirds of all cabins have balconies.
Her seakeeping was tested on our westward leg across the Tasman Sea where we skirted the perimeter of a strong low-pressure system producing almost 10 metres of swell. It was an amusing sight to see the mop-equipped deck staff in constant animation as the swimming-pool-cum-wave-pool disgorged its contents onto the deck. Even under these mildly trying conditions, food service and activities did not falter for a moment.
Speaking of food service, HAL are well known in the cruise industry for their superior culinary offerings and I can be a hard marker in this category.
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| Pinnacle Grill is Holland America's signature steakhouse, offering a refined dining experience with a menu featuring 28-day wet-aged USDA Prime steaks and classic steakhouse dishes. |
The main dining rooms deliver a reliably consistent level of superior restaurant quality cuisine bolstered by a small but significant selection from world-renowned Iron Chef Masaharu Morimoto, HAL’s ‘Global Fresh Fish Ambassador’ whose mantra is focussed on supporting local fishers practicing sustainable harvesting.
Even at a premium of US$25 per plate, Morimoto’s creations are worth a sampling, especially the lobster tail with lemon foam, vegetables and his signature epice powder. Any of the wild caught Alaskan Halibut dishes are also a treat. Meat lovers are also well catered for either in the dining room or the specialty Pinnacle Grill where prime cuts are the highlight, especially the Tomahawk, a 36oz bone-in rib eye sure to send your vegan cruise mates into apoplexy.
The casual Lido Deck buffets are also very popular where a surprising variety of cosmopolitan dishes are available as you please. I found myself returning to the Asian section where delicious meat and vegetable curries, papadums and sushi were always available.
One section of the Lido Deck is set aside for Canaletto, an Italian specialty restaurant where you can enjoy authentic Italian cuisine such as sausage paccheri, pesto Genovese and calamari trenette, all paired with matching Italian wines. The tiramisu, I can attest, is among the best I’ve ever had.
As something of a food waste demon, I was curious about how HAL, and indeed all cruise lines, minimise wastage in such a potentially gluttonous environment where 230kg of chicken, one tonne of flour and 20kg of coffee are consumed every day.
“We weigh all food waste daily,” Food & Beverage Manager, Melvyn Lobo told me, “We aim to stay below the 500g per person per day target set down by Carnival (HAL’s parent company) and we’re currently around 400g.”
All food waste is then loaded into special biodigesters that efficiently convert all organic material into grey water for easy and environmentally-friendly disposal. Sort of like a septic tank for food without the smell or leftover nasties.
One of the most important components of cruising is entertainment, especially on the large ‘white fleet’ vessels where around half of any itinerary is ‘at sea’. To this end, HAL’s Noordam features an array of entertainment options. Sorry, no waterslides, ziplines or go karts, but rather more conventional options in line with the predominantly mature demographic.
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| Holland America's Billboard Onboard is a live music venue featuring talented musicians performing chart-topping hits from the 1950s to the present. Located within the Music Walk complex, this venue offers an immersive musical experience with dynamic shows, trivia questions, and audience participation. |
Billboard Onboard is a dual piano lounge that is a clear hit with guests and often overflows into the distinctly less popular casino area, while World Stage, the largest theatre on board hosts a variety of performances each day including stage shows and schmick audio-visual presentations on local history and culture among other themes.
Rolling Stone Lounge (formerly BB Kings Blues Club) hosts live music and bands in a live jukebox format.
There are a couple of ping pong tables and a Pickleball court, as well as the swimming pool that can be quite fun on a rolling sea.
While there is a supervised Kids Club for the 3-17 year olds, I would suggest if you are looking for a family cruise experience, you might be better off with another cruise line like Carnival or P&O.
Every cruise ship worth its salt has a spa and HAL offers Greenhouse Spa and Salon offering everything from a quick and simple style cut to a a full facial and treatment. As with any ship, spa staff are skilled in upselling you, so be careful to keep a lid on your spending.
And to keep track of all your onboard activities and account, HAL has its own app, the Navigator, which will display your account in real time so you’re not always running to the Guest Services desk waving a clutch of dockets and queries. That said, my experience was not perfect. Technology being what it is will always throw you a curve ball, but thankfully I found there was always someone at the desk with a workaround when I felt snookered.
Yes, cruising is enjoying a rebound and as evidence our sailing was almost 90 per cent full. As long as you approach your cruise holiday with eyes and mind open, you can be assured a rewarding experience and HAL is perfectly placed to deliver.
Traveloscopy editor, Roderick Eime, sailed as a guest of Holland America
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