Tungjatjeta! World Traveller, Ros Freeman, embraces the sort-of country of Kosovo and finds her affection returned.
‘May you live a long and happy life’. Kushtrim greets me as I arrived at his hotel. For Kosovars greetings are an integral part of life. Men shake hands, give a little hug, sometimes a kiss on the cheek and, finally, a parting handshake. It’s a fine way to spend an afternoon.
It’s springtime in Kosovo and the cherry blossoms are blooming along Mother Teresa Boulevard. There’s a gentleness to the city, as people amble along the Boulevard or sit on one of the many benches. The Boulevard is the central hub of Kosovo’s capital Pristina. Book sellers stand outside their stalls. A man gives me an impromptu performance of his chiftoley, Kosovo’s traditional stringed instrument.
Mother Teresa Boulevard curves gently then culminates at Bill Clinton Boulevard. Did the two ever meet in real life I wonder? They sure did. Their views on abortion were polar opposites, however a deep friendship developed between them. Nearby is George W. Bush Avenue. The Kosovars are eternally thankful to the US and the UK. After the Kosovo War many Kosovars named their sons Tonibler, after Tony Blair.
When Yugoslavia broke apart Kosovo remained with Serbia. Tensions between the Serbian and Albanian communities led to the Kosovo war from 1998 to 1999. It ended when NATO bombed Serbia. During the war about 850,000 Kosovo Albanians fled, including Kushtrim and his family. Kushtrim’s family took shelter in a field in Montenegro before finding refuge in Norway until the war ended.
There’s a tremendous sense of optimism in Kosovo. Despite being one of Europe’s poorest countries, it’s high on the world happiness register. ‘We are building’, is a phrase I often hear, and though there is still much rubble about, there are great achievements, like the medical system, the transport system and, of course, Mother Teresa Boulevard. The country has Europe’s youngest population, with an average age of 29. Pop-stars Duo Lipa and Rita Ora are Kosovars.
Throughout the day I hear the muezzin’s calls, as nearby is the Great Mosque. I popped my scarfed-head into the darkened hall. The Iman, upon seeing me, turned on all the lights. Opposite was the Great Hammam. With memories of Istanbul’s bathhouses, I looked forward to having a few weeks' travel grit scrubbed off, but sadly it was closed, to be later reincarnated as a museum. Down the road at the bazaar, I sought consolation, buying a punnet of the tastiest strawberries ever. The memory lingers.
Culinary memories continued, with a crunchy piquant burek and, separately, an overflowing kebab. While I awaited my kebab, a bus stopped outside and a passenger ran into the shop, picked up her order then re-boarded the bus. Such kindness! I hope she shared some of her order with the bus-driver. ‘Don’t forget to take a date’, the kebab purveyor called as I was leaving his shop. I didn’t!
Scouting around for a dinner option. I popped into a cafe to check the menu. ‘No worries’ said the waitress. What, don’t tell me there are Aussies here too? I doubled back to quiz the girl. All young Kosovars can speak English and, more often than not, they learn from TV. Her go-to show was ‘Love Island’. Who’d have thought such a programme could be educational! Those too young to watch ‘Love Island’ instead learn their English from the School of Peppa Pig or the School of Bluey. Accents reflecting English or Aussie accordingly.
In the course of the afternoon a large marquee has been erected in the square near the Bazaar Mosque. Table and chairs are installed and a series of cauldrons bubble away. It’s a pop-up Ramadan event. Everyone is invited to break bread after sunset, the meal is free. Hundreds gather. The following morning the marquee and all traces of any activity have vanished.
Kosovo is tiny. The land-locked country has an area of almost 11,000 square kilometres, about half the size of Tasmania. The 1.6 million population are 92% Albanians and 4% Serbian with Albanian and Serbian the official languages. A diaspora of about a million Kosovars live mainly in Germany, Switzerland, Scandinavia and the US.
My stay in Pristina was only brief, four days, but the kindness and warm-hearted nature of the Kosovars will always linger.
Ros Freeman travelled independently at her own expense, but would not go anywhere unless Kirsty at Flight Centre Eastgardens booked her flights. ,
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Disguised as a mild-mannered corporate employee, Ros lives a secret life as a world traveller and adventurer amassing a count of more than 150 UN-recognised countries. |
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