July 17, 2018

Barcaldine's Blue Collar Heroes

Dallas Sherringham discovers that when travelling through central Queensland, make sure you leave a day or two spare to learn the unique story of Barcaldine.

You see, this unpretentious town of 1000 residents, full of lovely old pubs and Queensland bush houses is a place where nation changing history was made.

Barcaldine played a significant role in the Australian labour movement and the birth of the Australian Labor Party.

It all happened in 1891 when it was one of the focal points of the Australian shearers' strike, with the Eureka Flag flying over the strike camp.

The landmark Tree of Knowledge, under which the strikers met, took pride of place outside the railway station. In 1892 the reading of the Labour Party manifesto under its shady branches led to the formation of the ALP.

Sadly, in an act that defies logic, in 2006 unknown vandals poisoned the beautiful old tree with the herbicide Roundup, which led to its sad death.

The tree was a 200-y-o ghost gum when it died. It was always a feature of the town since the very early days of settlement.

Barcaldine was a natural focus for the development of unionism in the Australian bush. As the railhead, the town drew many seasonal and casual workers.

 Besides shearers and hands there were navvies who had worked on the construction of the railway.

The coming of the railway had destroyed the income of many carriers who had found their work reduced by it.

Difficulties in finding work and financial hardship helped to build a sense of mateship and mutual support amongst sections of them. In 1887 the Central Queensland Carriers Union was formed, and discussions leading up to this were held under the gum tree which provided shade where carriers waited at the front of the railway station.

 At the same time, the Queensland Shearers' Union was formed at Blackall. Within a year it had 1300 members, indicating a need for collective bargaining to obtain fair pay and working conditions. In 1888 the Central Queensland Labourers' Union was formed at Barcaldine. These three unions were the driving force behind the strike of 1891.

Tensions simmered and threatened to turn into a major conflict between police and striking workers.

One of the first May Day marches in the world took place during the strike on May 1 1891 in Oak St, Barcaldine. The Sydney Morning Herald reported that of the 1340 men who took part, 618 were mounted on horses.

 Banners carried included those of the Australian Labor Federation, the Shearers' and Carriers' Unions, and one inscribed 'Young Australia'. The leaders wore blue sashes and the Eureka Flag was carried. The Labor Bulletin reported that cheers were given for "the Union", "the Eight-hour day", "the Strike Committee" and "the boys in jail".

Ultimately the strike petered out and the workers went back to work. However the seeds of a great labour movement had been sown.

Today the whole event is commemorated in a major display surrounding the restored remains of the dead tree. A giant wooden structure covers the tree and looks ungainly when you first sight it.

However inside, standing next to the tree remains, you look at a "cathedral type" structure which shuts out the everyday world.

Nearby the words of the working class hero Henry Lawson steal the show. It shows his original hand writing capturing the immortal words of the poem "Freedom on the Wallaby". Lawson wrote the poem on hearing of the strike and it was published soon after. The "rebel flag" was the Eureka flag first flown at the Eureka stockade.

The last stanza reads:

O we must fly a rebel flag,
As others did before us,
And we must sing a rebel song
And join in rebel chorus.
We'll make the tyrants feel the sting
O' those that they would throttle;
They needn't say the fault is ours
If blood should stain the wattle!

Nearby is the Australian Workers Heritage Centre which is being developed to celebrate the role of ordinary working class people in our society.

The centre tells that working-class Australians fought the wars, built the nation, became great leaders and Prime Ministers and dominated the sporting fields.

Surrounding a bore fed Billabong; it is set in 14 buildings on a former state school site.

Barcaldine also has a number of heritage-listed sites, including: Barcaldine Shire Hall and Barcaldine War Memorial clock in Ash Street, the Lagoon Creek Shearers Strike Camp Site, Barcaldine Masonic Temple in Beech Street and St Peter's Anglican Church and Hall in Elm Street.

Words and Images by Dallas Sherringham

Feature supplied by: www.wtfmedia.com.au

1.      Henry Lawson's immortal poem is featured
2.      One of the local pubs where workers enjoyed a beer
3.      The restored remains of the Tree of Knowledge
4.      The railway station was the centre of the strike
5.      Part of the impressive working class celebrations

July 07, 2018

Broken Hill and its silver lining

Dallas Sherringham explores the far West of NSW

As a young student of Australian history many years ago, one of my favourite books was "The Silver City" by Ion Idriess which told the story of Broken Hill.

I made a couple of flying visits to the city in subsequent years, but it was only recently that I was able to enjoy an extended stay and do some exploring.

First up, a little bit of history. Charles Sturt noted the "broken hill" when he passed through in 1844 but it wasn't until 1883 that boundary rider Charles Rasp found silver ore at the spot. He thought it was tin, but it turned out to be the world's largest silver deposit.

Mining began in earnest with thousands of people pouring in. Unlike many mining towns, substantial houses and public buildings were erected along with parks and gardens and properly surveyed, wide streets.

Today, the city is a living history lesson and was giving a national heritage listing in 2015.

Now, visiting such an historic city meant looking for traditional style accommodation and I chose The Lodge Outback Motel which is within walking distance of the CBD.

The Lodge Outback Motel is in part located in an impressive historic building that has significant heritage value to Broken Hill with its architecture and social history. The main building was one of the first to be built of stone and tin roof for the mining capital's resident GP, Doctor William MacGillivray, his family and staff.

It was built in 1904 in the style of 'South Australian Cottage' in an L-shape with verandahs on two sides and enclosed turret. The architectural style is characterised by its corrugated roofing, double-hung sash windows, stone sills and thick masonry walls to retain the heat in the winter. Inside, each room have individual designed tin-pressed ceiling, crafted by Ernest Wunderlich.

I stayed in a period decorated heritage room and the friendly staff helped me plan an itinerary for exploring the city.

First up was a trip to the top of the famed "Hill" which is topped by mining tailings and affords a wonderful view of the city. Then it was on to the main drag, Argent Street, which has markers featuring historic pictures of what the area was like 100 years ago.

Taking pride of place is the 1889 Palace Hotel which gained fame through Priscilla, Queen of the Desert.

Broken Hill had a city tramway in its halcyon days, powered by uniquely designed Sydney steam trams which towed dummy passenger cars behind them. Each day they conveyed thousands of miners to work and home again, bouncing along at an impressive rate with white steam and black smoke belching from them.

Broken Hill also had its own railway which linked the city with the South Australian system. Called the Silverton Tramway, it had massive locomotives capable of moving big loads of ore.

Sulphide Street Railway Museum is the original tramway station and features a display of locomotives and rolling stock from the golden, or should I say, silver age.

Then it was off to Pro Hart's gallery in Wyman Street, a "must see" for visitor to the Hill for many years. The most famous of Broken Hill's prolific artists, the gallery features many of his famous works, a theatrette featuring his life story and his original studio. Upstairs is a display of the many forms of art he mastered.

No visit to Broken Hill would be complete without a drive out to Silverton, 20 minutes west. It is known worldwide as the setting for more than 200 feature films including Mad Max. The Silverton Hotel is the heart of the town and I enjoyed afternoon tea by the fire before taking a look at the extensive collection of photos depicting the movie crews and stars.

Finishing off my visit to the Hill was a tour of The Living Desert Sculpture Park 9km north of the city which featured impressive sandstone sculptures.

Broken Hill is cheap to visit, easy to get around and is unique. Every Australian should see The Silver City at least once in their lifetime.

Words and Images by Dallas Sherringham

Feature supplied by: www.wtfmedia.com.au


1 Argent Street features many impressive heritage buildings
2 Historic mining complex on "the Hill"
3 The Lodge is the former home of the city's first doctor
4 Pro Hart's unique Rolls Royce on display at his gallery
5 Silverton Hotel, home base for 200 plus movies