Jericoacoara: Pleased to meet you - finally

Drawn by the laid-back beach vibe, Robyn Smith fulfilled a long-held dream of visiting this seaside paradise in Brazil

Many, many years ago I saw postcards of Jericoacoara and it’s unique colourful hand-crafted fishing boats called jagandas on the beautiful sandy beaches. I thought – I have to go there one day! It took me about forty years, but I finally did get there last October.

It was much more than colourful fishing boats. Jericoacoara is in Ceara state in North East Brazil. It now has its own airport, about an hour from the main village. A friend had told me not to take my suitcase as it was all sand and I could not wheel it to the hotel. ‘Just take 2 bikinis, 2 Bermuda shorts and 3 t-shirts. Buy a nice lace hat and lace dress there from the locals.’  I thought he was being silly, until I arrived.

The transfer is by dune buggy or 4-wheel drive, along the beach and through the sand dunes. Fortunately, my driver arrived at the door of my lodging and carried my suitcase in, as it was true.. The village is all sand – not sand on foundations – but sand, as in the beach – all through the village. I even stepped into a shop and realised there was no floor – just sand.

Pousada La Vie Jeri (supplied)

So, I settled in at my charming lodge, ‘Pousada La Vie Jeri’, with its eight suites situated around the courtyard with a refreshing pool in the middle. Rooms are Hollywood themed – I was in the Charlie Chaplin Suite – instead of a number on the door, there was a picture of Charlie. Breakfast is served on your own little balcony. The staff are so warm and friendly. 

I then wandered for 5 minutes, along the sandy streets, down to the actual beach and was delighted to find ‘jagandas’ resting on their sides on the beach. There were surfers,  swimmers and kite-surfers in the turquoise water. I joined them for a dip and then sat there on the beach pinching myself to believe that I was finally here. 

The beach is long and one has the option to sit under thatched umbrellas and order a caipirinha, or have a bit at one of the beachfront cafes, to the sounds of live music. 

Kite surfing is incredibly popular here due to the constant winds. I met a chap who owned a kite surfing company and was taking a group of friends kite surfing for a week – from village to village. A jeep took their luggage each day while they kite-surfed from one village to another, spending a night in each. I thought - if I were younger and a kite surfer this would be a dream!

As I am neither, I opted to spend a day at the nearby Lago Azul (Blue Lagoon) where one can relax on a hammock in the water, sip cocktails and dine on fresh seafood. More my speed. 

I bid farewell to Jeri, with a jeep ride along the beach, kite surfers to the left of me, donkeys to the right, one of the symbols of Jericoacoara, wandering in the dunes.  Ahh Jeri, I will be back. Am thinking next time of visiting Lencois Marenhenses on the way - another dream!

About Jericoacoara:

Jericoacoara, affectionately known as "Jeri," is a world-renowned, rustic fishing village turned eco-adventure destination located in Ceará, Northeast Brazil. Famed for its, sand-covered streets, constant trade winds, and stunning, crystal-clear, blue-green lagoons (like Lagoa do Paraíso), it offers a laid-back, "barefoot luxury" vibe inside a protected national park.

Key Highlights & Attractions:

• Best Time to Visit: The dry season runs from July to December, offering nearly constant sun, making it ideal for windsurfing and kitesurfing.
• Must-See Spots:
   The iconic 
  Pedra Furada
   (a natural rock arch), the 
  Duna do Pôr do Sol
   (Sunset Dune) for daily sunset watching, and the hammocks in the water at 
  Lagoa do Paraíso
  .
Vibe: A charming, remote, and car-free village with no paved roads or streetlights, designed to preserve the beauty of the starry night sky.
Activities: Kitesurfing, windsurfing, surfing, capoeira, buggy tours (east and west coast), and horseback riding.
Getting There: Requires a ~4-5 hour trip from Fortaleza, with the final stretch usually via 4x4 vehicles, as it is surrounded by sand dunes. 

Tips for Travelers:

• Stay: The best area to stay is in the centre of the village or near the main beach for easy access to restaurants and nightlife.
• Costs: While historically a backpacker spot, it is now more expensive, with a mix of simple guesthouses and high-end boutique hotels.
• Dining: Features diverse restaurants serving fresh seafood and international cuisine.

Jericoacoara is a unique, protected paradise where nature dictates the pace, offering an unforgettable, laid-back experience. 

See Robyn about your South America journey

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