Egypt: Raise a Sail on the Nile

The ancient city of Aswan is just one of the highlights of an Intrepid Travel tour of Egypt

Words: Roderick Eime

Ahmed manhandles the rigging with all the aplomb of a practised hand. There’s just the right amount of wind to fill the big lateen sail and propel us along at an impressive clip.

Adjusting the sails on our felucca (R Eime)

This is not the America’s Cup by any means, but I’ll wager our skipper, Omar, is the local equivalent of Dennis Connor if his weathered, parchment skin and relaxed hand on the tiller is anything to go by.

Here on this busy section of the Nile, adjacent to the wharf at Aswan, we’re cruising on a local felucca, the elegant Egyptian wooden boats that have sailed the world’s longest river for thousands of years. Sure, it’s a tourism staple, but it’s a most enjoyable experience nonetheless.

Aswan is just one of the major archaeological centres along the 1600 km stretch within Egypt. The full length of the Nile is some 6650 km, extending all the way through Sudan to the south and into Ethiopia and Uganda. Its elusive source has been the quest of countless explorers for millennia.

Our 60-minute course loops anti-clockwise around gigantic Elephantine Island, dominated by the Third Dynasty Step Pyramid of the same name and the sprawling Movenpick Resort. Other curious embellishments on the island include many Banksy-like visual tributes to reggae superstar Bob Marley. No one can confidently say just what the connection is, but clearly he made an impression here.

Appearing on our starboard is the lush Kitchener Island, overflowing with exotic plants of all descriptions.

RELATED STORY: Visiting the Great Sphinx of Egypt

“The island was gifted to Lord Kitchener in 1898 as a reward for defeating the armies of Sudan,” our guide Rania tells us, “and he planted trees from all over the world here. It’s now a botanical park.”

The southern passage around the island brings us into the grasp of the First Cataract, a series of low granite rocks that form treacherous obstacles for any navigator unfamiliar with these waters. Omar barely bats an eyelid as he threads the felucca through these outcrops as we prepare to tack northward back to the wharf.

Steamboat PS Sudan (as Karnak) in front of the Old CCataract Hotel from the film: Death on the Nile (1978)

Looming on the precipice to our starboard is the imposing Old Cataract Hotel, now part of the Sofitel Legends collection of iconic hotels. Cinema buffs of a certain age will know this famous hotel from its starring role in that 1978 classic film, Agatha Christie’s Death on the Nile. The 2022 remake, sadly, did not film on location, but instead built the sets in the studio.

We later resolved to visit the hotel for lunch, which we did the following day, enjoying a simple but decadent meal on the balcony overlooking the fabulous vista, imagining Peter Ustinov, David Niven and Bette Davis supervising the loading of their luggage onto the elegant steamer, Karnak. The vessel, built in 1885, still exists and sails as PS Sudan today.

Felucca sails past the Old Cataract Hotel, Aswan (Roderick Eime)

Aswan has long been a trading centre and market city, dating back some 4500 years, and borders the ancient lands of Nubia and Egypt. Today, it hosts five UNESCO-listed monuments and is the departure point for coaches travelling to the Temple of Abu Simbel, located almost 300 km to the South. At night, you can visit the vibrant spice market and run the gauntlet of enthusiastic touts spruiking all manner of souvenirs and trinkets. Those boarding Nile cruise boats destined for Luxor on a three- or four-day voyage can, to some degree, replicate the passage of ancient merchants carrying their cargo of ivory, ebony, gold, and incense to the pharaohs of Egypt.

For a complete exploration of Egypt, including Cairo, Alexandria, Aswan and Luxor, take a popular Intrepid Travel tour of between 8 to 15 days suiting a wide range of budgets and styles.

The writer travelled at his own expense. 

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Top Five sites to visit in Aswan, Egypt:

- Philae Temple: A stunning temple dedicated to Isis, Osiris, and Horus, relocated to its current island site to prevent flooding. The temple's intricate carvings and beautiful setting make it a must-visit.
- Best Time to Visit: Early morning or late afternoon to avoid crowds and enjoy the sunset

- Abu Simbel Temple: A magnificent temple built by Ramesses II, featuring four giant statues of himself and intricate artwork. The temple's alignment with the sun on specific days of the year is a remarkable sight.

- Nubian Museum: A modern museum showcasing the history and culture of Nubia, with a vast collection of artifacts and exhibits.
- Must-See: The museum's exhibits on the parallel histories of ancient Egypt and Nubia

- Aswan High Dam: An engineering marvel that stopped the flooding of the Nile River and created Lake Nasser.
- Best Time to Visit: Anytime, but be prepared for crowds and sun exposure; the hottest months are June, July, and August, with average high temperatures reaching 41°C (105°F) and average lows around 25°C (77°F).
- Tips: Combine your visit with a trip to the nearby Kalabsha Temple.

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