World traveller, Ros Freeman, lies back and lets the Mekong do its magic.
Sitting on the Sun Deck, sipping a welcome cocktail, I immediately slipped into cruise mode. Surrounding me was an excited contingent of travellers, ahead the adventure of nine days cruising the languid waters of Cambodia and Vietnam.
This is my kind of cruising; the boat is small, the river is narrow and there are plenty of excursions, enabling us to meet the local folk and experience village life. It seems my fellow passengers agree, there’s an excited buzz in the air, as we exchange names and origins; there are 20 passengers and a crew of 16.
The journey began in Cambodia’s Siem Reap. A temple experience was top of the list. Angkor Wat is the best known, however, I favoured the smaller and less crowded temples. These temples, built in the 12th century, were abandoned and consumed by the jungle. Imagine the surprise the Portuguese missionaries felt upon rediscovering the temples in the 16th century. Angkor Wat is the world’s largest religious building. Today it adorns the Cambodian flag.
From Siem Reap we travelled through lush countryside. It’s August, the green season, the rainy season. Flash thunderstorms create a sense of drama. There’s a flurry of activity as street vendors swiftly relocate stock under cover. Sleeping dogs waken and shift to dryer ground. Then minutes later, the sun is out again, items are moved to their original locations, and the dogs return to their favoured spots.
There’s plenty to see on this working river. Barges transport cars, materials and equipment. Fishermen give a friendly wave from small colourful craft. 80,000 Cambodians live on the river. Floating villages consist of stilted homes, floating houses, markets and even a floating fuel station. It’s a vibrant part of Cambodian life. For centuries, fish farming has been a mainstay of Cambodia’s economy. Lately, though, the water levels have lowered, making life difficult for many. Several large dams have been constructed upstream, one fisherman tells us, giving us a sad smile.
The Cambodians are remarkable people. History hasn’t been kind to them. In the reign of Pol Pot, 1975-1979, one quarter of the country’s population died, about 2 million people. Today the population is 18 million. The country is one of the world’s poorest. Its wealth, though, lies with its people; this is the land of smiles. The people here are happy, always smiling. 92% of the population are Buddhist. There are 50,000 Buddhist monks and 5000 Buddhist pagodas. Cambodia means ‘those who appreciate beauty’. The country is indeed beautiful; green rice paddies, dotted with sugar palms, studded with colourful bungalows.
Every day a new adventure unfolded. We tuk-tuked to small villages, enjoyed temple walks, rode bicycles through orchards, kayaked on the delta, enjoyed sampan rides, and participated in cooking demonstrations. At the markets we tasted fruits we’d not encountered before: rambutan, pomelo, longan and mangosteen. The Foodies in our group were in food nirvana. We all were. So many OMG! moments.
As we cruised towards Phnom Penh stilted homes gave way to modern abodes and finally the high-rise skyline of Phnom Penh. There we visited the sumptuous Royal Palace. The palace roofs are adorned with naga tails, representing Cambodia’s mythological creature. This is the residence of Cambodia’s King Norodom Sihamoni.
From the Palace, we were transported by the Rolls-Royce of tuk-tuks. The red cordoned sides were clasped and off we went to Anik Palace Hotel. Palace by name, palatial by nature. We feasted like royalty, a sumptuous repast. Afterwards, our ‘Rolls’ transported us to the Central Markets. The Art Deco building overflowed with glistening jewellery and colourful clothing. Unlike most Asian markets, it was a gentle experience. I watched on as a florist gently folded back lotus petals.
It was fitting end to the Cambodia segment of our cruise. The following day, we cruised downstream and into Vietnam.
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| Ta Prohm, Siem Reap |
The journey began in Cambodia’s Siem Reap. A temple experience was top of the list. Angkor Wat is the best known, however, I favoured the smaller and less crowded temples. These temples, built in the 12th century, were abandoned and consumed by the jungle. Imagine the surprise the Portuguese missionaries felt upon rediscovering the temples in the 16th century. Angkor Wat is the world’s largest religious building. Today it adorns the Cambodian flag.
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From Siem Reap we travelled through lush countryside. It’s August, the green season, the rainy season. Flash thunderstorms create a sense of drama. There’s a flurry of activity as street vendors swiftly relocate stock under cover. Sleeping dogs waken and shift to dryer ground. Then minutes later, the sun is out again, items are moved to their original locations, and the dogs return to their favoured spots.
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| Toum Tiou II |
There’s plenty to see on this working river. Barges transport cars, materials and equipment. Fishermen give a friendly wave from small colourful craft. 80,000 Cambodians live on the river. Floating villages consist of stilted homes, floating houses, markets and even a floating fuel station. It’s a vibrant part of Cambodian life. For centuries, fish farming has been a mainstay of Cambodia’s economy. Lately, though, the water levels have lowered, making life difficult for many. Several large dams have been constructed upstream, one fisherman tells us, giving us a sad smile.
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| Captain, Mr. Hoe |
The Cambodians are remarkable people. History hasn’t been kind to them. In the reign of Pol Pot, 1975-1979, one quarter of the country’s population died, about 2 million people. Today the population is 18 million. The country is one of the world’s poorest. Its wealth, though, lies with its people; this is the land of smiles. The people here are happy, always smiling. 92% of the population are Buddhist. There are 50,000 Buddhist monks and 5000 Buddhist pagodas. Cambodia means ‘those who appreciate beauty’. The country is indeed beautiful; green rice paddies, dotted with sugar palms, studded with colourful bungalows.
Every day a new adventure unfolded. We tuk-tuked to small villages, enjoyed temple walks, rode bicycles through orchards, kayaked on the delta, enjoyed sampan rides, and participated in cooking demonstrations. At the markets we tasted fruits we’d not encountered before: rambutan, pomelo, longan and mangosteen. The Foodies in our group were in food nirvana. We all were. So many OMG! moments.
 |
| Monastery of the Royal Palace, Phnom Penh |
As we cruised towards Phnom Penh stilted homes gave way to modern abodes and finally the high-rise skyline of Phnom Penh. There we visited the sumptuous Royal Palace. The palace roofs are adorned with naga tails, representing Cambodia’s mythological creature. This is the residence of Cambodia’s King Norodom Sihamoni.
From the Palace, we were transported by the Rolls-Royce of tuk-tuks. The red cordoned sides were clasped and off we went to Anik Palace Hotel. Palace by name, palatial by nature. We feasted like royalty, a sumptuous repast. Afterwards, our ‘Rolls’ transported us to the Central Markets. The Art Deco building overflowed with glistening jewellery and colourful clothing. Unlike most Asian markets, it was a gentle experience. I watched on as a florist gently folded back lotus petals.
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| Mercado Central |
It was fitting end to the Cambodia segment of our cruise. The following day, we cruised downstream and into Vietnam.
Ros Freeman travelled as a guest of CF Mekong and would not go anywhere unless Kirsty at Flight Centre Eastgardens booked her flights.
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Disguised as a mild-mannered corporate employee, Ros lives a secret life as a world traveller and adventurer amassing a count of more than 150 UN-recognised countries. |
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