One of the very best travel pursuits is people watching. In the cosy confines of a downtown cafe I perched upon a stool studying the passing parade. There’s a certain look about Norwegians I decide; tall, lean, stylish and always with beautiful skin and hair. It’s the first of Oslo’s sunny days and the mood is elevated. People take off their beanies and gloves and face the sun, a form of worship that includes vitamin D. A tall stocky man walks by sporting a beard and a long white mane. Pure Viking. All that was missing was a horned helmet. A little later, I encountered him again. ‘G’day’, he said. No escaping the Aussies.
After a few days solo in Oslo, I joined a group of twenty-six Aussies. Travelling north, the tour included a few of Norway’s highlights; Flåm, Bergen and Tromsø, with hope of seeing Aurora Borealis, the northern lights. It’s a Macleay Valley Travel trip. Being a seasoned Macleay traveler, I encounter a few familiar faces and many MVT repeaters.
Flåm
It only takes a few hours from Oslo and we’re in Flåm, a hub of Norway’s Fjordland. The village has a population of 450, however annually there are over one million visitors. It’s easy to see why. The village is tucked between towering mountains. It’s simply awe inspiring. The harbour is small but deep and able to handle large cruise ships. We’re in luck however, there are no cruise ships in. The joy of traveling in winter.
We cruised up the river, passing deep ravines, waterfalls and clutches of tiny houses. At Undredal, a tiny hamlet by the water’s edge: population 58, goat population 600, it seemed that time had stood still. All the villagers are involved in goat herding, milking and cheese production. It wasn’t until the 1980s that a road first connected the township. At the cheese factory we tucked into berry preserves, goat salami and a variety of cheeses, including brunost, a sweet brown cheese unique to Norway.
Our guide led us to the township’s tiny Stave church built in 1147. Thousands of these timbered Stave churches were built when Christianity was introduced to Norway in the 12th Century. Now there are only 28 left. A few years ago, they replaced the timber floor. Medieval coins were found, they’d fallen through cracks in the floor centuries before.
In the early 2000s the population of Undredal doubled when a team from Disney arrived. Undredal was the inspiration for Arendelle in Disney’s ‘Frozen’.
It was a perfect end to the day as we piled into vintage rail compartments for a ride on the famous Flåm railway. Considered one of the world’s best rail journeys, it’s also one of the steepest. In the course of an hour we rose 867 metres from sea level to Myrdal Mountain Station. The line, built in 1940, connects with the Oslo-Bergen line. Yet another way to enjoy Flåm’s spectacular vistas.
Bergen
For as long as I can remember Bergen has been on my wish list. It’s a destination that generates a smile and a sigh. It’s one of Europe's’ prettiest cities but, surprisingly, also its wettest. It rains 240 days a year. But this day there was an additional reason to smile. The city was bathed in sunshine.
Down by the waterfront a row of colourful buildings provided the impetus for Bergen’s existence. They were built by the Hanseatic League, a major trading guild operating from 1360 to 1760. The buildings burnt down many times, but were rebuilt in their original style. Today Bryggen’s longhouses are UNESCO listed.
Behind Bryggen mountains towers above, this is Norway after all! But how to get there. ‘It’s an easy walk’, declared Trish. Why oh why did I ever believe a girl who runs marathons?? I worked up quite a sweat in the -2C temperatures, but once at the top I sipped my hot chocolate . . . with double cream . . . and not an ounce of guilt. The views were crystal clear. An easier option is to travel by funicular.
The Macleay group were a happy bunch. We quickly get to know each other. For some it was the first time they’d seen snow. ‘It’s like walking into a Christmas card’, Trish declared. She was right, a sprinkle of snow enhanced the most beautiful of landscapes. For others joy came in different forms. Carol lingered outside a shoe shop. She’d just spotted the most beautiful pair of boots and, they were on special! She was torn. She had no space in her bag, already packing three pairs of boots and two pairs of shoes. She was was a shoe-aholic, having 230 pairs at home.
As expected, food, and especially alcohol, were expensive in Norway. One would have to be very rich to get drunk in Norway, then afterwards, be very poor. Nevertheless, we tucked into the beer, vino and, very briefly, aquavit. Feeling mellow, true confessions emerged. Trish admitted that she’d won a date with Johnny Farnham. A bit later she’d won Miss Poolside Gunnedah. It was her ticket to escape Gunnedah to the big city. She never looked back. Quiet achiever Carolyn admitted she’d had six husbands. Judging by the twinkle in her eye, I’m sure they’ll be more! Laconic Trevor had a misty expression as he reminisced seeing Ann-Margret perform in Vietnam. He also admitted to wearing a pale blue safari suit when he got married. Pure vintage! His two daughters are simply itching to get that safari suit.
Tromsø was our final destination. A two hour flight from Bergen took us into the Arctic Circle, and it was here we hoped to view the northern lights. A thick layer of snow covered the city. It was like walking through a gigantic sorbet. Mounds by the roadside were cars that the owners had forgotten to move. Still the snow continued to fall; fat, fluffy snowflakes, gently tumbling from the sky. Architectural jewels decorated the city, including the simple but stunning Arctic Cathedral.
Not far from the city the indigenous Sami people live, along with their reindeer herd. Once they were nomadic but now they’re settled and have even embraced tourism. Wearing traditional costume Mike gave a spiel about Sami life and the habits of reindeer. Afterwards we were each handed a bucket of feed and voila! we become reindeer magnets, these gentle animals licking food out of our hands.
That evening I managed to snaffle the last ticket to view the Northern Lights. How lucky! Mini-buses chase the Northern Lights, sometimes crossing the border into Finland. We made our way to the bus terminal. The wind was bitter, the snow blowing about in flurries. At the last moment it was announced that the tour can be cancelled due to an arctic vortex, a snowy cyclone. With a mixture of disappointment and relief we returned to our hotel, stopping for a consolatory drink or two. Skol to beautiful Norway, and tusen takk for providing the perfect reason to return to this magnificent country.
Ros Freeman travelled independently at her own expense but would not go anywhere unless Kirsty at Flight Centre Eastgardens booked her flights. ,
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Disguised as a mild-mannered corporate employee, Ros lives a secret life as a world traveller and adventurer amassing a count of more than 150 UN-recognised countries. |
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