Machu Picchu side dish: Guinea pig on a plate

Sailing along the South American coast was the beginning of a pilgrimage to the ancient glory of Machu Picchu – fortified by gourmet guinea pigs.

Why am I feeling so guilty about eating a guinea pig? The dilemma isn’t that bad after all. Not since my chat with the chef at the Inkaterra Hotel where the train from Cusco pulls into Aguas Calientes, the closest town to Machu Picchu in Peru. 

Challenge yourself with a 3 Sisters Adventure Trek and help empower the women of Nepal

3 Sisters Guides

By Jennifer Doherty

Looking for a challenge in retirement, then start training for a trekking adventure in Nepal and join one of the many treks offered by the 3 Sisters Adventure Trekking Company.   At the same time, you will be helping to empower the girls and women of Nepal to a better life. 

3 Sisters Adventure Trekking was set up in 1998 by the Chhetri Sisters – Lucky, Dicky & Nicky who are now seeing the benefits of training and empowering a new generation of strong, confident women of Nepal who can contribute to the future of their country.

Soon after setting up the trekking company they set up the NGO, Empowering the Women of Nepal (EWN) to work in partnership to train and encourage more Nepalese women to become self-supportive, independent, decision-makers.

Once trekking operations in Nepal were only led by men, but the very capable, well- trained and experienced guides of 3 Sisters Adventure Trekking truly can make your trek a very special experience.

With our guide Sita Rai, we took on the challenge of the 10 day Annapurna Base Camp (ABC)  trek and soon learned many things from her, how to climb up steps and not be breathless (and in Nepal there are endless stone steps leading up and down the mountains), how to stay motivated when times get tough and how to succeed in your challenge to make it to base camp and feel that great sense of achievement when you do.

For first time trekkers like us who are reasonably fit and walk a lot, we suddenly realized that trekking in the Himalayas is much different stamina wise to a bush-walk in the Blue Mountains.   It’s the challenge of walking day on day for ten days that requires more than just physical strength.

The ten-day Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) trek takes you through some of the most spectacular mountain scenery you could imagine.   We trekked in the month of April which is Springtime in Nepal and the spectacular rhododendron forests were in full bloom and the mountains were swathed in pink & red foliage.

Walking every day is different and exciting, sometimes through farmland, bamboo groves, lush rainforest and then alpine scenery once you reach Macchapuchhre Base Camp (MBC) and finally Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) about two hours further up.  Along the way you can enjoy the beautiful trees and foliage, and pretty wildflowers that bloom right up to Annapurna Base Camp.

Fewa Lake. Pokhara

And you can actually see beautiful birds you’ve never seen before in your life and hear beautiful birdsong every moment of your trek along the Modi Khola river gorge which leads up to Annapurna Sanctuary & Base Camp.  We were delighted to see a brilliant turquoise and black Grandala on the track to Annapurna Base Camp as well as the little forktail, spotted forktail, barbets, bush chats as well as a woodpecker and a cuckoo in the birch forest.  As we called back to the cuckoo it moved from tree to tree following us for more than twenty minutes. We were told by our guide Sita who is an avid birdwatcher that there are 883 species of birds in Nepal.

We were also very lucky to see the silver-grey black-faced langur monkeys who live in the rainforest jumping from tree to tree above our heads.  Trekkers have encountered them sometimes on the track in the forest in a surprise encounter.

The villages along the way where you stay each night are basically a number of lodges and restaurants that cater well to the trekkers passing through.  Most of these have the main dining room where you eat your meals and meet trekkers from all over the world.  The diet is mostly good trekker’s food with lots of carbs like pasta, pizza, rice and curry as well as the Nepalese staple dal bhat which consists of curry, vegetables, lentil soup and rice.  3 Sisters Adventure Trekking provide the backpacks and limit them to 10kg for their staff to carry, and then you just need to carry your daypack with water, protein bars and chocolates for some high energy snacks along the way.

Along the route, there are amazing views of the Himalayas right from the third day at Ghorepani where you can trek up Poon Hill to see the sunrise.  The balcony of our lodges at Tadapani and Chomrong provided sensational views of the Himalayas

But of course the best views are stupendous when you reach the end of the river gorge and enter the Annapurna Sanctuary and Base Camp where you have 360c views of the Himalayas including Annapurna South (7,219m), the world’s tenth highest peak Annapurna 1 (8,091m), Annapurna 3 (7,555m), Machhapuchhre (6,997m) which is well known as Fish Tail mountain, and the Mardi Himal (5,553m).  The massive Annapurna South Glacier carves its way to the edge of basecamp which we were told might have to be moved sometime in the future.

Most treks usually include one night only at Annapurna Base Camp because of limited accommodation, there are four lodges and restaurants based there, but if nothing is available at ABC trekkers stay at Machhapuchhre Base Camp (MBC) and do the 4.30am trek up to Annapurna Base Camp for the sunrise.

Now, to say the Annapurna Base Camp is as easy as ABC would be stretching it, it takes a lot of effort, sometimes up to eight hours a day walking up and down those stone steps but the reward when you reach the Annapurna Sanctuary with the incredible views of the Himalayas are truly spectacular and worth the effort.

For recovery, you can spend a few days in the relaxing surrounds of lakeside Pokhara where you can enjoy boating on the beautiful Phewa Lake, have a massage to ease the muscle pains at the wonderful Middle Path Spa and refuel at top restaurants like Rosemary’s Kitchen and OR2K.

For detailed information on all the treks being offered by 3 Sisters Adventure Trekking visit the website:  www.3sistersadventure.com

You can even donate or volunteer your time or skills with the NGO, Empowering Women of Nepal
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Words and images: Jennifer Doherty

Feature supplied by: www.wtfmedia.com.au

Going Green: Eco Resorts in Malaysia

Ecotourism might be the most overused, misused, and clichéd term in the tourism industry. It was a word coined by scientists but then hijacked by the marketing department of many hotels most of which have little more than a landscaped pavement at the entrance to lure tourists onto their property. Ecotourism came into vogue as tourism surveys reported the increase in travellers seeking green, sustainable, responsible and eco-friendly holiday opportunities. There are some Malaysian hotels that are fully committed to the green cause and often it is what you cannot see that make a resort truly green. It is hard making good public relations press releases from treated wastewater and composting garbage, but these are some of the indicators of those who are committed to the cause. Many Malaysian resorts have taken giant steps in lowering their environmental footprint, and here are five that standout as places to enjoy a greener holiday.

BATANG AI LONGHOUSE RESORT

One of the main principles of ecotourism is that the locals benefit from tourism development, and in Sarawak there are several destinations where this occurs. While Batang Ai is a dam, efforts were made to involve the local Iban community when the Hilton-managed Batang Ai Longhouse Resort was mooted. Now many work in the hotel and accept hotel guests into their longhouse communities for cultural exchange. Local longhouse architecture has been incorporated into the design of the resort while creature comforts are also in place. Staff conduct nature walks, longhouse visits and trips to Wong Luih Waterfall.

Website: www3.hilton.com

CLUB MED, CHERATING

Kids love Club Med and that is good news for parents as they can chill out around the bar and pool while their child's every need is addressed by eager beaver staff. Club Med's eco-nature resort concept is set in coastal forest that is home to a menagerie of animals. Some 75% of the site is protected and the environmental policies put in place satisfy Green Globe benchmarking (the environmental barometer adopted by most hotels around the globe) and Accor's own PLANET 21 initiative. Waste water is treated on site and compostable garbage is returned to the soil. Green turtles lay their eggs in the soft sands of Chendor Beach between April to August and Club Med guests can visit the Cherating Turtle Hatchery operated by the Department of Fisheries.

Website: www.clubmed.com.my

FRANGIPANI LANGKAWI RESORT AND SPA

When Frangipani opened in 2006 the management set about putting in place 200 green practices and has won many local and international awards for its conscientious efforts. These include the regulation options, ‘reduce, reuse and recycle', but also a general rethink about everything that occurs on their land and the effects they have on their immediate island surroundings on Langkawi. While maintaining a high guest experience, the resort is setting out to try and become self-sufficient in their use of many resources, such as water and energy. They capture rainwater in tanks for irrigating the grounds, treat grey water in an on-site wetland, compost rubbish to fertilise organic gardens, incorporate solar power and openly show others how to reduce their costs and save the planet. They also host Langkawi Live – One Earth Music Festival, held in November, where music and environmental activities feature.

Website: www.frangipanilangkawi.com.my

GAYANA ECO RESORT

Sabah has many ecotourism propositions with Gayana Eco Resort being situated on Gaya Island which forms part of Tunku Abdul Rahman National Park. Rooms overlooking the turquoise waters of the South China Sea are fabulous, and Gayana's coral reef restoration initiative is unique in Malaysia. Located just off Kota Kinabalu, the resort is a refuge for urban weary travellers. Gayana Eco Resort and its neighbouring and jointly-owned Bunga Raya Island Resort have established a Marine Ecology Research Centre to help restore coral reefs around Borneo.

Guests can participate in reef restoration including coral planting of broken coral fragments. Its Marine Kids' Club is especially appealing and guests can learn more by doing a PADI scuba course. 

Website: www.gayana-eco-resort.com

SUKAU RAINFOREST LODGE

Sabah's Lower Kinabatangan River is one of the major focuses for ecotourism in the country. While surrounded by a number of oil palm plantations, the wildlife sanctuary is a protective habitat for many animals including orangutans, proboscis monkeys, clouded leopards and the Borneo pygmy elephant. Many wildlife lodges (including Sukau Rainforest Lodge) are located on the perimeter to offer deluxe lodges overlooking the river. It caters for small numbers and places emphasis on employing excellent and experienced guides to impart knowledge to guests (80% of the staff and 30% of the ownership are local). Activities are conducted from dusk to dark and the resort facilities include a nature library, with staff presenting evening slide talks. Boats with electric motors are used for riverine wildlife spotting. Small luxuries here such as outdoor baths, Wi-Fi and chilled beers in the Gecko Lounge confirm that eco- holidays need not involve sacrificing life's little luxuries. This hotspot is also where eco-celebrities like Sir David Attenborough, hole up when in the Kinabatangan.

Website: www.sukau.com

Source: Senses Of Malaysia.com January 2014

Hawaii: The Phantoms of Sarah Joe

By William Starr Moake

Sunday morning Hana Bay was as flat as a pond with a gentle southerly breeze under a clear sky. These were unusual weather conditions for the windward coast of Maui. Normally, the ocean churned with white water and gusty tradewinds produced cloudiness and frequent rain. It was the perfect day to go fishing offshore since the fish always hit best when the water was calm and the sun shining.

The Grand Balkan Tour

“From both sides”, replies experienced tour manager Lana from Croatia when one of the fellow passengers, Richard from our group of forty, asks which side of the bus will provide the best view of the scenic landscape when driving down from Cetinje to Kotor in Montenegro. This drive down is considered one of the world’s most spectacular but hair-raising adventures on the road.

And soon we find out Lana is absolutely right.

Nashville – The country heart of the US of A

Let's get one thing out of the way first when it comes to Nashville: You don't have to be a country music fan. It helps, of course, but there's plenty to do outside of the music that this vibrant and exciting city is known for.

That said, country is often misunderstood and misrepresented, so there's every chance that a dash of contemporary country during a Nashville visit will have you converted by the time you leave.

Nashville is unlikely to be your primary destination on a USA visit but given it's just a two hour flight from New York; it's well worth adding to your itinerary.

Sure, it's a bustling and vibrant city – a real party town – but it's also a great representation of a quieter America, particularly if you stay in the suburbs slightly out of the city (which is not such a bad idea – Uber and Lyft are sensational in America and it's a great way to get around cost effectively).

So, let's get a few 'must do' things out of the way first.

Given this is 'music city'; you cannot take a trip here without checking out a few of the things that helped Nashville earn its famous moniker.

Opryland

A trip to the Grand Ole Opry is a must – book tickets in advance, and take note the famous venue is slightly out of the main city (it's located at Opryland – which is an incredible resort and mall that is definitely worth seeing in its own right). During the winter months and Christmas holiday period, the Opry – a country music radio program that is performed live in front of an audience – moves to the Ryman, its original home.

A visit to the Bluebird Cafe should also be on your list – it's where some of the biggest names in music, including Taylor Swift, were first noticed. Again, it's a little out of the main city. You can book tickets in advance, but mostly you'll be able to get in by lining up an hour or so before showtime.

The real party in Nashville is on Broadway – it reminds you of Las Vegas on a smaller and much less over-the-top scale. There's almost as many bars as people, from the larger venues that carry the names of some of country's biggest stars including Florida Georgia Line, Jason Aldean and Luke Bryan, through to small 'honky tonk' bars that are full of live music everywhere you turn. Often, the same venue will have three live bands running at once across different levels, providing something for everyone.

The Country Music Hall of Fame & Museum

On a quieter day – or perhaps when you're nursing a hangover, which is pretty much guaranteed at least once in Nashville – head to the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum, which provides an amazing historical look at the music that made Nashville famous. There's no need for the guided or audio tours, everything is very well presented and a self-guided visit is recommended.

Food… well, there's plenty of it – just remember you'll probably have to loosen your belt. Give the Pancake Pantry a try, but be prepared to line up for at least half an hour. Martin's BBQ Joint was a personal highlight – it may present like an ordinary dive bar but the food is nothing short of incredible.

One thing you'll discover about Nashville is how nice the people are – particularly if you've visited Los Angeles and New York along the way and experienced the often brash American attitude. Nashville has a much nicer, slower feel about it – while still being a big city.

Nashville is a must-visit if you're in America, even for a few days. If you like country music, you'll be in heaven. If you don't, there's a good chance you'll be converted by the time you leave – cowboy hat and all.

Words: Troy Dodds

Feature supplied by: www.wtfmedia.com.au

Images: As supplied

1 – Downtown Nashville

2 – Opryland

3 – Country Music Hall of Fame

Croatia: The Small Wonder of Zagreb

John Maddocks finds that Zagreb punches above its weight

Croatia's vibrant capital is a small, sophisticated city often overshadowed by Adriatic superstars such as Dubrovnik and Split. But a new international airport means Zagreb has come into its own as Croatia's main gateway, connected by air to over 50 cities. Tourists are discovering a very laid back metropolis with stunning architecture, fascinating museums and an engaging bar and café lifestyle. It's no surprise that Zagreb was Lonely Planet's 'Best in Europe' as recently as 2017.

After arriving in the early afternoon at my apartment accommodation in the city's centre, I head straight to Zagreb's hub, Ban Jelacic Square. On the way I walk through streets with numerous crowded outdoor cafes. I'm rushing to see as much of this city as possible in the 48 hours before I leave for the coast, but the atmosphere of relaxed, friendly socialising here makes me slow down. I'm liking the place already.

Ban Jelacic Square is the city's meeting point. People are alighting from nearby trams that traverse the city. Friends are meeting here before going to restaurants, bars and theatres. Families and businessmen stroll past the imposing statue of Josip Jelacic, seated on a horse with sword drawn. Jelacic was a nineteenth-century governor who came to symbolise Croatian independence after fighting a losing battle with Hungary. I gaze at the beautiful nineteenth-century buildings bordering the square before crossing on my way to the striking twin spire cathedral nearby. Then I head west and further into the upper town.

The upper town is a precinct of charming ancient streets leading to the Stone Gate, an entrance to the medieval area of the city. The Stone Gate doubles as a pilgrimage site where people come to pay homage to a seventeenth-century painting of the Virgin and Child, supposedly the only section of a wooden gate that survived a fire in 1731. On the way up to St Mark's Church from here I pass a crowd of nuns, a group of Chinese tourists and some of the faithful making offerings. St Mark's is the landmark church famous for its colourful tiled roof displaying a variety of coats of arms. Parliament house and the presidential palace are nearby.

I then walk down past the beautiful Jesuit Church of St Catherine to a point near the thirteenth-century Lotrscak Tower, where there's a wonderful view of the city. The quaint funicular railway takes me on a short trip to the lower town.

Wandering past the monument to Nikola Tesla, one of Croatia's famous sons, I head along the bustling street named after him past cafes and restaurants. Many of the eateries in this lower part of the city are those favoured by locals. There are also some attractive outdoor areas, such as the delightful Zrinjevac Park and the Botanical Garden.

Next morning, after a well-earned sleep, I grab a cheese burek (a filled filo pastry) and takeaway coffee from a nearby bakery and walk to the impressive Croatian National Theatre. Opened in 1895 and built in the Baroque Revival style, the National Theatre is the place to see opera and ballet in Zagreb.

The lower town also has many fine examples of Austro-Hungarian architecture and is worth walking around there for that reason alone. But a standout is Kallina House, a brilliant Art Nouveau structure known as the 'Bat House' because of its distinctive bat motif tiles that decorate the first floor windows.

It's still early in the morning, so I catch a bus to Mirogoj Cemetery. This is a massive necropolis park, with magnificent entrance buildings and tree lined avenues. It's a very peaceful place and compares favourably for atmosphere with Havana's Necropolis Cristobel Colon and Buenos Aires' Recoleta Cemetery.

After contemplating the afterlife, I make my way back to the city and the popular Museum of Broken Relationships. This unconventional storehouse of exhibits is a crowd-sourced collection of artefacts and stories related to 'brokenships' or 'the way we love and lose'. Each personal object symbolises a relationship breakdown and is accompanied by a narrative about how the relationship ended. It's quirky, fascinating and often poignant. You may want to buy a 'bad memories eraser' at the museum's shop.

But I know I'll only have good memories of Zagreb. It's won my heart in two days and I'll definitely want to hook up with this enticing city again.

The writer travelled at his own expense.

Fact File:

Getting there: Emirates and Qatar fly to Zagreb daily from Australia.

When to Go: May to September.

Where to Stay: Five star apartments in Zagreb starting at $75 per night are available online.

Eat: 

• Time Pastry Shop - Ulica Nikole Tesle 14, Zagreb 10000
• La Struk restaurant, Skalinska ul. 5, Zagreb 10000.
• Bistro Fotic, Gajeva Ulica 25, Zagreb 10000
• Nokturno Restoran Gajeva Ulica 25, Zagreb 10000
• Words and images: John Maddock

See John's new book Against the Odds: surviving the world's worst tsunami and overcoming trauma at www.amazon.com.au/dp/B07CZCHX8S/

Feature supplied by: www.wtfmedia.com.au

Images

01. The thirteenth-century St Mark's Church. The tiled roof was added in 1880 to show the coat of arms of Croatia, Dalmatia and Slavonia on the left and that of Zagreb on the right.

02. A funicular connecting the upper and lower areas of Zagreb has existed since 1890.

03. The National Theatre is a neo-baroque masterpiece. It is mainly used for opera and ballet.

04. Sudden unexpected vistas appear in Zagreb's old city, like this glimpse of the cathedral at sunset.

05. Zagreb has numerous museums, but one of the quirkiest and most popular is the Museum of Broken Relationships. It contains a huge collection of fascinating objects from all over the world that relate to the ending of relationships. Very moving and often humorous.

06. Some of the exquisite offerings at Zagreb's innovative Time Patisserie. Zagreb has some of the best cafes, bars and patisseries in Europe.

07. It's worth spending some time wandering in the peaceful Mirogoj Cemetery, Zagreb's massive necropolis.

08. Beautiful expansive parks complement Zagreb's distinctive Austro-Hungarian architecture.

Star Wars Galaxy’s Edge: Visit Planet Batuu on your next holiday

Space travel may be beyond the reach of most of us, but not when you visit Disney’s newest multi-million-dollar attraction, Star Wars Galaxy’s Edge. Ardent Star Wars fan, Roderick Eime, travels to a galaxy far, far away.

Star Wars themed attractions have been a part of Disneyland for more than 20 years, but this all-new, 5.5 Hectare, intricately-detailed, precinct within the main Disneyland theme park is a whole new level of ‘out of this world’. Based on the far Outer Rim planet of Batuu, it is named the Black Spire Outpost after the two massive pinnacles that overshadow the complex where the Millenium Falcon is parked.

Conceived in 2014, soon after Disney acquired Lucasfilm outright, work on Galaxy’s Edge began in 2016 and opened to the public amid great fanfare in May 2019.

Of course, the legions of Star Wars fans were out in force for the opening and soon reports began circulating about the many experiences, merchandise, food and characters contained within the 50,000 square metres of custom rockwork and plaster.

As a long time fan of the famous trilogies, the first thing I noticed was that this is not a location recognisable from any of the movies. Insiders tell me that much of what we see here at the Black Spire Outpost will be revealed in the next - and last - instalment of the 40-year saga, Episode IX: The Rise of Skywalker.

Be prepared for random ID checks (Richard Harbaugh/Disney Parks)

That said, random photo-opp appearances are made by well-remembered characters. Chewbacca, the giant furry Wookiee from Kashyyyk is mobbed by adoring fans when he lopes into the Souk-like marketplace. Out in the plaza, two patrolling Stormtroopers conduct random ID checks on unsuspecting guests while Rey twirls her fighting staff for amazed onlookers.

To me, an unabashed sci-fi nerd with remnants of my childhood imagination still intact, it was the intricate detail of the entire set that impressed me most. Every nook and cranny is themed including the light fittings, water bubblers, trash cans, washrooms and Disney staff who, quite accurately, are called ‘cast members’ with whom you don't just chat, but interact. Each has their own back story and role in this unfolding drama into which you have landed.

Kylo Ren arrives in his mysterious starfighter (Richard Harbaugh/Disney Parks)

As I wandered the the expansive set, it was astonishing to stand beside full-size replicas of such iconic vehicles as A-Wing and X-Wing Starfighters, Luke’s Tatooine speeder and, of course, the massive Millennium Falcon. But there is one hyperspace starfighter that will have fans doing a double-take. Just what is that strange ship parked across the way? My research revealed it to be a First Order TIE Echelon and it now plays its own part in the Black Spire performance as a set piece for the arrival of Kylo Ren as he searches for a resistance spy that could be you!

Okay, so now you have found yourself in this alternate universe, what is there to do?

• Embark on an immersive virtual mission aboard the Millennium Falcon where you and five co-pilots must capture valuable cargo to aid the resistance
• Travel on the interactive virtual reality ride, Rise of the Resistance, which will be open by September 2019.
• Shop for Star Wars souvenirs and soft toys like Kowakian Monkey-Lizards and Porgs in the marketplace or obtain rare collectors’ objects like legacy lightsabers or rare kyber crystals from Dok-Ondar's Den of Antiquities. You’ll have to barter with Dok-Ondar too if you want a deal.
• Enjoy themed food like Mustafarian Lava Rolls, Smoked Kaadu Ribs or Fried Endorian Tip-yip at Docking Bay 7 Food and Cargo. The famous Batuu blue and green frozen milk is available outside at a special dispensery.
• Over-21s can enjoy special alcoholic beverages at Oga’s Cantina.

• Build your own custom radio-controlled Astromech Droid Unit in the Droid Depot. There are nearly 280,000 possible combinations for constructing an R-series or BB-series astromech droid using all the available pieces.

Savi's Workshop, where you can build your own custom lightsabre (Joshua Sudock/Disney Parks)

• Construct your own personalised lightsaber at Savi’s Workshop where there are more than 120,000 possible combinations to ensure yours is a true one-of-kind weapon.
• Explore the minute details of the Black Spire Outpost and see if you can find such ‘easter eggs’ as a Dianoga nicknamed “Tiny”, the character depicted in the Toydarian Toymaker shop sign, a stuffed wampa or a tiny version of Han Solo's Mobquet M-68 landspeeder. There are many of these hidden all around the outpost and the junk depot is a great place to start.
• Install the smartphone app which will give you special abilities to interact with objects and installations within the attraction.

A twin theme park is also under construction at Disney's Hollywood Studios in Walt Disney World Resort in Orlando, Florida. It will be open from September 2019.


Getting There:

Virgin Australia Holidays has released Star Wars packages for Australians planning their trip to Star Wars: Galaxy’s Edge at Disneyland Resort California. For more information, visit: www.virginaustralia.com/starwars