Under the Shade in Belize

On the cayes and lagoons of Belize, Ros Freeman finds a Caribbean country rich in wildlife, colour and easy charm, where the greatest travel dilemma is whether to explore or simply do nothing at all.

I’m running late! Two weeks late, to be precise. Legend has it that if you swim on Good Friday in Belize, you could turn into a mermaid. Imagine that? Passports wouldn’t be a travel requirement, though sharks could pose a bigger problem.

Belize is a tiny Caribbean country, wedged between Mexico and Guatemala. It’s a third the size of Tasmania, with a population of 500,000. Once it was called British Honduras, but in 1981 it gained independence. I’m here for a week, but that’s not nearly enough time. There’s so much to see here, yet adopting a laid-back approach is a national imperative. The country’s motto is “Under the shade I flourish”. Indeed, seeking shade is a national pastime.

There’s no better place to start exploring Belize than on the coast. By plane, taxi and ferry, we were transported from Houston to Caye Caulker, a tiny sliver of paradise off the country’s northern coast. Instant karma. We were welcomed by friendly folk and, in no time, were sitting beneath a palm tree, gazing out to the Caribbean Sea and sipping piña coladas. In the background, reggae strains intertwined with the local Caribbean lilt. The official language of Belize is English, though almost all Belizeans are trilingual, also speaking Spanish and Creole.

Caye Caulker is one of Belize’s 450 tiny islands, called cayes, pronounced “keys”. Most of the islands are uninhabited, but here there’s a laid-back tourist vibe, a sprinkle of bars and restaurants, and boat trips out to Belize’s Barrier Reef and the Great Blue Hole, one of the world’s best diving sites.

Despite the focus on tourism, the island retains its village feel. After a few days, we’re on nodding terms with many of the residents. There’s time to chat. No one’s in a rush. Around 3000 people reside on the island, which is 8km long and 1.6km wide. The bicycle is the preferred mode of travel, though walking is best. Golf carts are used as taxis.

Colourful, dilapidated timber buildings line the dirt streets; some are homes, some are restaurants, and some combine both. We visited Miss Meldy’s one evening, sitting on her rickety verandah and dining on delicious seafood curry. Lobster season had just finished and now it was conch season. Beautiful pink conch shells decorate the village and menus offer conch, pronounced “conk”, specialities. We tuck into conch ceviche one evening, conch fritters the next. Both are delicious. Winding our way home, music wafts through the village: reggae beats, ’70s favourites. At Salty’s Bar, “Andrew and the Go-Slows” were stretching out blues notes as far as they could.

Miss Meldy's

We knew we were in the right place when a large iguana scurried across the entrance to Iguana Reef Resort. There we chatted to a local policeman.

“Do you watch Death in Paradise?” I asked.

There are few murders on Caye Caulker, though domestic violence is a concern. As dusk fell, the stingrays came down the beach. A pesky pelican hopped on the backs of the rays as if they were stepping stones. As I stood in the shallow water, the rays swam around my legs. A sensuous joy to remember. Seahorses danced nearby, a moray eel played hide and seek, and further along, a grey nurse shark vied with tarpon at the feed bin.

A little exploration of the mainland was warranted. There are no McDonald’s, KFC or Starbucks in Belize. Instead, kiosks sell homemade jerk chicken and the Belize staple, rice and beans. We travelled to a sanctuary filled with howler monkeys and engaged with one particular troop. The alpha male roared a warning. It was difficult to comprehend how a relatively small animal could make such a huge noise. However, it wasn’t heeded. A mother shimmied down a vine close to us, her beautiful fluffy baby clinging to her back.

Not far away was Crooked Tree Village, located in a wildlife sanctuary. We enjoyed Belizean hospitality at Beck’s B&B. There, tiny hummingbirds hovered, blue jays darted past, and in the evening, melodious blackbirds serenaded us. An early morning cruise on the lagoon provided a plethora of birds. Our heads spun from left to right as our guide named every bird we saw, and many that we didn’t.

Belize is an unexpected cultural and sensory feast. At heart, it’s a Caribbean country with splashes of ancient Mayan, African and European influences. That melange underpins every aspect of life: cuisine, music and culture. Belize presents a travel dilemma. There’s much to do: exploring Mayan ruins, caving, visiting the jaguar sanctuary, swimming and snorkelling. But it’s also the perfect location to do nothing. A dilemma. The solution? To visit this stunning little country again. In the words of the locals, “mi love Bileez”.